A/C Pulley/Hub Bearing

[MAC]

Can a new A/C compressor pulley bearing be pressed in the original pulley/hub. I read (see below link) that GM uses peens to secure the bearing in the hub. I just bought a new ACDelco bearing and want to make sure I’m not wasting my time by trying to replace the bearing in the original pulley. The alternative is to buy the pulley with the bearing already installed, but that’s going to cost over $100.

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[KHE]

Can a new A/C compressor pulley bearing be pressed in the original pulley/hub. I read (see below link) that GM uses peens to secure the bearing in the hub. I just bought a new ACDelco bearing and want to make sure I’m not wasting my time by trying to replace the bearing in the original pulley. The alternative is to buy the pulley with the bearing already installed, but that’s going to cost over $100.

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Yes - you need to remove the peens and then press the old bearing out. Press in the new bearing and then use a suitable staking tool to stake the pulley to the new bearing.

[MAC]

use a suitable staking tool to stake the pulley to the new bearing.

I'm bringing the pulley to a local machine shop. I would think the shop should have staking tools to do the job?

[KHE]

use a suitable staking tool to stake the pulley to the new bearing.

I'm bringing the pulley to a local machine shop. I would think the shop should have staking tools to do the job?

I just looked in the shop manual and it stated that you do not need to remove the peens to press out the old bearing but you do need to properly support the rotor. After pressing out the bearing, file away the old peens and then press in the new bearing. Stake the rotor at three places, 120 degrees apart with the appropriate staking tool. The stakes should be .040-.050" deep and avoid contacting the bearing with the staking tool.

[Logan]

Yes, the bearing is staked in place.

Its often cheaper and faster to simply replace the complete hub assembly.

The AC hub bearings are a bear to get out......but it can be done....

[MAC]

Thank you all for the information. I have the shop manual and obviously didn't read it close enough. Thanks KHE for pointing out what the manual says on page 1D2-5. In Figs. 9 & 10 it shows how the old bearing can be removed and new one installed by carefully taping it with a hammer and special tool. So, a press it not absolutely necessary. I'll still take it to the shop as it shouldn't be that expensive and no doubt will save time. The do-it-yourself tools are pretty expensive and I won't bother trying to rent them. The machine shop has an excellent mechanic as he rebuilt a head for my Datsun 260Z many years ago. He's a nice guy and I'm sure he'll be more than willing to help. It was about 95 and humid here in NJ—too hot to be driving without A/C.

[MAC]

Here’s the bearing I bought from a Cadillac dealer. It cost about 34.50 not including tax. I called another dealer and was quoted over 49.00. I don't know where that price came from but it apparently pays to shop around. Maybe the $34 was the old price and the $49 is the new price and dealer I bought it from didn’t catch up to the new price increase yet?

[KHE]

MAC,

There should be a standard bearing part no. molded into the seal of the bearing. You might want to call a local bearing supply house with that no. In Michigan, Applied Technology - Detroit Ball bearing has an outlet in most major cities. You might be able to get that bearing for $10.

If there is not a standard no., wou can measure the ID, OD and thickness and call a bearing house.

[MAC]

KHE,

Again, thanks for the info. I didn't know that. The bearing has the following information on the seal:

1. NSK (top)

2. 6559469 (bottom)

3. 99 (left, inside a box)

4. A25 (right)

At any rate, however, I opened the package so it's no longer returnable. But I will remember what you said for future reference.

Should I take one of the seals off and repack the bearing? One of the posts on www.autoacforum.com suggested cleaning the bearing with carburetor cleaner and repack with some synthetic bearing grease.

[mike5514]

Yes at least check to make sure the bearing is packed with grease. When I reinstalled mine I put some locktite on the hub where the bearing fits. Mike

[KHE]

KHE,

Again, thanks for the info. I didn't know that. The bearing has the following information on the seal:

1. NSK (top)

2. 6559469 (bottom)

3. 99 (left, inside a box)

4. A25 (right)

At any rate, however, I opened the package so it's no longer returnable. But I will remember what you said for future reference.

Should I take one of the seals off and repack the bearing? One of the posts on www.autoacforum.com suggested cleaning the bearing with carburetor cleaner and repack with some synthetic bearing grease.

NSK is the bearing manufacturer and 6559469 is probably the part no. The new bearing should have plenty of grease but it might not hurt to check.

[MAC]

I know Lucas hasn't been very popular around here lately but it looks like they make excellent bearing grease. I bought Lucas' X-TRA Heavy Duty for the bearing.