tommysls Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 1998 SLS 104,000 miles This forum has always been very usefull to me. Particularly when it's time to have a repair done. It's nice going into the shop with the expert advise available here. This new problem started today while on highway traveling at 70 mph, outside temp 54 and rain. Had been driving about an hour and needed to use front defrost, when I hit the button, fan started and immediately smelled coolant. No change in temperature gauge. Stopped 15 minutes later to check under hood - no visible sign of leaks while running or engine off. Returned to highway and experimented while different temerature settings - smelled coolant at all temps except 60 degrees. Countinued trip - car ran fine - total 350 miles - most at hwy speeds. Temp guage fine all trip. Any ideas before I take it to the shop??? Thanks tommysls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Sounds like a leaking heater core. Drop off the passenger side sound insulator and check for drops of coolant. Also make sure the heater core hoses are tight. They may leak under increased pressure while driving and some small volumes of coolant may be sprayed into the cabin. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Check hose connections especially where the hoses go into the firewall. Sometimes they leak into the heater core area. What about the coolant level, did you check it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Usually there is a "film" that will develop on the inside of the front window if the heater core is going. A.J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Yes, the first thing to do is tightening two hoses which go directly to the heater core thur firewall. Just turn the screws some 1/2 - 1 turn and see if it makes difference. Next step would be the heater core. BTW, since there is some coolant in the heater core compartment the symptoms will not go away immediately after say, tightening the hoses- you will smell the coolant for a while. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Tommysls, Be VERY careful when you tighten the hose clamps on the heater core. The end tanks are plastic and get very brittle with age. My heater core end tank started leaking because of a crack. When I went to remove the heater hoses, the fittings just broke off with just the slightest pressure. Some of the aftermarket heater cores have aluminum tanks and fittings instead of plastic. I would have one of those on hand (along with the service manual) before I tried to tighten those hoses! I bought my heater core at AutoZone for less than $40.00. And it actually wasn't a very hard job to change. It took me a little over an hour. Mine was a 1994 SLS. Hopefully the 1998 won't any harder to do. Good Luck and Happy New Year! Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommysls Posted January 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Dealer says they have to remove the dashboard to replace heater core, Is this true??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted January 3, 2005 Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Tommysls, On the 94 SLS, just the glovebox and the cover over the heater core have to be removed. There was also a controller that had to be disconnected and removed. But the dash didn't need to come out. The 98 may be different though. I would ask him to show you the flat rate book. The flat rate book lists the time that is SHOULD take to do a particular job. If you have a maintenance manual for your car, you can read it to see what has to come out or off to get to the heater core. It sounds to me that they are "setting you up" for a big labor bill. But as I said before, the 98 may be different from the 94 in this repair. If there are any independent shops around, I would get a couple of them to quote you a price. Additionally, if the OEM replacement heater core has plastic tanks, I would say "NO THANKS". and insist on one with aluminum tanks. Don't let them snow you into a large repair bill. Good Luck, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommysls Posted January 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2005 Thanks Britt - They quoted the time as 7 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.