Need A Little Help on my '02 DeVille

[Gdadscad]

I'll start with an apology that this may get a bit long. I just like to be thorough in the beginning.

The car is an '02 Deville base, 4.6 Nstar with around 82k on it.

SES is on (recently started flashing) Starts & idles good while cold, fluctuates after warm-up from 625-750 rpm.(recently started missing as well). Before miss started I sprayed starting fluid at the intake connector(?) & all smoothed out.

Ran codes & received the following; ABS-U-1000. IPM-B-0429 & B-1004. PCM-P-0101, 0171, 0174, 0300, 0442, 0621, 0741.

I will be replacing the rubber intake connector & Intake gaskets this weekend & hoping to eliminate a few of the codes (praying for a cascade effect).

I am on a budget but will do what is needed to fix my Pearl.

Thanks in advance for your time & expertise,

Cadillac Al

[IceCold]

​Welcome aboard and I hope you enjoy your stay.. You will get some other dedicated individuals to chime in with their advice as well, so do your research. I notice you said with limited funds but how could that be and you are driving a caddy? Just making conversation but to start, did you pull the codes yourself from your system or was it a shop? I ask that because you are able to pull more codes even the ones that's in history, which you forgot to mention but it's no problem

ABS U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance " This is most likely your Actuator for the rear AC/Heat located under the steering wheel from my understanding."

B1004 Keep Alive Memory (KAM)

P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance

P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1

P0174 Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2

P0300 Engine Misfire Detected

P0442 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Small Leak Detected

P0621 Generator L-Terminal Circuit

P0741 TCC System Stuck Off

This should fix your P0171 & 0174. I just changed mines a few weeks ago and the hole was right at the 6 o'clock position. It may help your misfire (P0300), but it could also be a coil pack and or plug. When was the last time you changed your plugs?

APDTY 022121 Throttle Body To Intake Manifold Plenum Coupling Rubber Boot/Hose Fits Northstar 2000-2005 Cadillac Deville 4.6L / 2000-2002

They also make a MAF sensor cleaner that runs about $8.50 I think. Theirs a plug that plugs into that sensor, check to make sure it's connected.

Have you cleared the codes to see which ones return?

DTC display; 1998-2004 Seville, 2000-2005 Deville and other models with 3 buttons on the RH side of DIC

Use the 3 switches located to the right (LH drive cars) of the Driver Information Center (DIC) to activate and respond to the OBD prompts on the DIC.

ON/OFF = YES
INFO RESET = NO
INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle

Ignition ON, acknowledge any warning messages; press ON/OFF and INFO UP together for 2 to 3 seconds. Everything in front of you lights up for 4 or 5 seconds, then you will see:

Display shows "ALL?"

Answering YES will display "ALL CODES?"
Answering YES will run automatic test sequence and display codes, if any. Systems and codes will scroll faster than I am able to read them and write them; not to worry.
"ALL CLEAR CODES?" will display at the end of the automatic test. If you are satisfied you have the information you need, answer YES to clear/erase all error codes.

Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.

Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.

Ignition OFF to exit.

[Gdadscad]

Ice Cold,

Thanks for the quick reply. I drive a Caddy because I am a discerning individual.;-) Never changed plugs (haven't had it that long). Limited income due to recent retirement.

I have the plenum boot (from Rock Auto).

Who are 'they'?

The only codes showing as history were B-1004 & P-0101.

Cleared the codes but haven't run them again (not driving the car until fixed).

Been a mechanic on & off for many years so I have a clue.

BTW I forgot to mention, only repairs to the car so far are; I replaced all 4 hubs rotors & pads.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks, Cadillac Al

[IceCold]

Ice Cold,

Thanks for the quick reply. I drive a Caddy because I am a discerning individual.;-) Never changed plugs (haven't had it that long). Limited income due to recent retirement.

I have the plenum boot (from Rock Auto).

Who are 'they'?

The only codes showing as history were B-1004 & P-0101.

Cleared the codes but haven't run them again (not driving the car until fixed).

Been a mechanic on & off for many years so I have a clue.

BTW I forgot to mention, only repairs to the car so far are; I replaced all 4 hubs rotors & pads.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks, Cadillac Al

I've done all my repairs with the help of the internet and I will say that this site has been a tremendous help in the majority of my repairs. One thing I've noticed, you will not be the only one with the problems you are having. Google became my best friend...IM me if you need anything.

Good luck,

[Gdadscad]

So today's goals were to replace the intake plenum connector & clean out the MAF.

MAF was a piece of cake. Removing the intake & rubber connector wasn't too bad either.

the connector had about a 4 inch split across the bottom & the intake and throttle body were caked thick with black soot.

I used parts cleaner, brushes and scotch brite pads to clean the parts as good as I could.

The one problem I had was while pulling the injectors and fuel rail the #5 injector separated from the fuel rail & will not reseat.

After reassembly I only turned ignition to on (didn't attempt to start) & #5 is spraying fuel.

How do I get this to reseat or do I need to replace fuel rail or injector or both?

Thanks for any help,

Al

[IceCold]

So today's goals were to replace the intake plenum connector & clean out the MAF.

MAF was a piece of cake. Removing the intake & rubber connector wasn't too bad either.

the connector had about a 4 inch split across the bottom & the intake and throttle body were caked thick with black soot.

I used parts cleaner, brushes and scotch brite pads to clean the parts as good as I could.

The one problem I had was while pulling the injectors and fuel rail the #5 injector separated from the fuel rail & will not reseat.

After reassembly I only turned ignition to on (didn't attempt to start) & #5 is spraying fuel.

How do I get this to reseat or do I need to replace fuel rail or injector or both?

Thanks for any help,

Al

Make sure the injector has the rubber (O RING) seal attached to the injector when seating it back into the injector slot.

[Gdadscad]

O-ring was there (on top) just can't seem to get it to seat back up into the rail.

Today's a new dawn, we'll try again.

Thanks Ice Cold,

Al

[IceCold]

O-ring was there (on top) just can't seem to get it to seat back up into the rail.

Today's a new dawn, we'll try again.

Thanks Ice Cold,

Al

No problem, BTW, I had no garage door opener in my 05 base model but the slot was there. I went to Pull A Part I saw two models that had them and I removed both. Two different part numbers so I purchased both and can return the one not used. I put it in the slot and had power. Programmed it, and it works like a champ. Also picked up a wood grain steering wheel $13.00 that I'm putting on this week.

[IceCold]

O-ring was there (on top) just can't seem to get it to seat back up into the rail.

Today's a new dawn, we'll try again.

Thanks Ice Cold,

Al

Did you put the o ring on the injector,then put the injector in it's slot.

[Gdadscad]

Looks like the o-ring was the problem. Pulled the rail & injectors, got the o-ring reset, reassembled and all worked great.

I still have a P-0300 code and a slight miss in the engine. SES now flashes instead of steady BUT it idles at a smooth 625 RPM.

I'm happy with the results & will figure the rest out later.

Ice, if you keep adding the cool parts the car won't be a base anymore.LOL.

Thanks again for all your help.

Cadillac Al

[Logan]

A flashing SES lamp is worse then one on all the time.

Flashing indicates a mis-fire bad enough to damage the catalytic converter.

[IceCold]

Looks like the o-ring was the problem. Pulled the rail & injectors, got the o-ring reset, reassembled and all worked great.

I still have a P-0300 code and a slight miss in the engine. SES now flashes instead of steady BUT it idles at a smooth 625 RPM.

I'm happy with the results & will figure the rest out later.

Ice, if you keep adding the cool parts the car won't be a base anymore.LOL.

Thanks again for all your help.

Cadillac Al

I thought you said that you haven't changed any plugs or coils, I would start out by replacing the plugs 1st. As you remove the plugs, you may find one of your boots torn or badly damage. Are you getting any new codes?

[Magnum_44]

I had the flashing SES in March 2015 on my 2000 ETC. Took to dealer they found cracked electrode on front coil pack. Replaced the coil pack 4 plugs and boots for a cool 780 dollars. I bought another coil pack online and 4 more new plugs and boots to install soon. Total cost for these was around 200 dollars. Now Eldo is leaking oil bad...not even sure where it is coming from but can see it dripping down on passenger side front right behind the radiator on the metal barrier bar there. Not sure what that is called. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

[Gdadscad]

Logan, Thanks for the heads up, I'll go further.

Ice, You are correct. I will change the plugs tomorrow. Is any one plug recommended over the others? If I have a boot problem, are they available anywhere other than dealer & U-Pull-It?

What is the correct procedure for testing coils?

Thanks all,

Al

[Logan]

The 2000-2003 is unique in it will not display a p0301-308 on the self diagnostics. Just p0300.

You need a Tech 2 or some other upper-grade scan tool to display which cylinder is actually missing.

Without a scan tool to display which cylinder. You are just guessing...

As for the coils. 4 per side in a sealed cartridge unit. Front one is silver...back one is black. Besides color they are identical and can be interchanged. It is replaced as a complete unit.

I used to carry a tested spare in the trunk.

[IceCold]

Glad someone else chimed in....Never changed plugs, give them a swap out for new ones and it's possible your miss fire may go away.

[Gdadscad]

Thanks guys. I'll report back when plugs are changed.

[IceCold]

I had the flashing SES in March 2015 on my 2000 ETC. Took to dealer they found cracked electrode on front coil pack. Replaced the coil pack 4 plugs and boots for a cool 780 dollars. I bought another coil pack online and 4 more new plugs and boots to install soon. Total cost for these was around 200 dollars. Now Eldo is leaking oil bad...not even sure where it is coming from but can see it dripping down on passenger side front right behind the radiator on the metal barrier bar there. Not sure what that is called. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

I would clean the engine (wash) but not directly on any electrical parts. After the engine clean put some paper (Not Newspaper) or cardboard under the vehicle to pin point the vicinity of the leak. Through my travels I have learned that I'm not the only one with several oil leaks. Run your fingers along the seam of the valve covers, especially on the corners. Oil will travel and leak in several places from one area. Also, look at the oil filter housing, I had to replace the gasket the mounts between that and the engine. Sorry I don't know the proper name. FYI, I just signed up for Alldatadiy.com and it has a wealth of information. $16.00 for the year.....(Something to consider). Been there done that!

Keep your head up. Price parts at rock auto, amazon. To install the coil pack, I think it's just 2 or 3 screws to remove and unsnap the connection and pull straight up and out.

Keep it coming!

[Gdadscad]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to the thread.

As one may expect, the front plugs were a piece of cake. HOWEVER! I couldn't move the A.I.R. valve mounted on top of the rear bank enough to allow the rear coil pack to be removed, so they haven't been done yet.

I did start the engine but the misfire still remains. If the weather holds tomorrow I'll try one more time to remove the A.I.R. If it doesn't work it'll go to a pro.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, Al

[IceCold]

To remove the A.I.R valve mount you have to remove the 2 hex bolts on top and 2 bolts holding the flex metal together . I think it's a 10mm, and it can be a pain but you can do it. Run your hand and look down the line and you will see it.

[Gdadscad]

Sorry for being gone so long. Life got in the way.

Got all plugs changed (had the rears done by a local mech.)Still have the misfire. The mechanic has a good scope & says misfire is on #8 & #2. He also mentioned they were on the same circuit (?).

Instead of spending $187 on a new coil pack I got a used one at U-Pull-It. Changed packs this morning. Still misfires.

My question now is...Is there any way to test a coil pack off the car? Any meter test that can be performed?

[airmike]

The easiest way to test one is to change it to a spot that is not missing, and see if that spot continues not missing. If the miss follows that coil around, you know it is no good, but if it doesn't miss on that cylinder its good.

[Gdadscad]

Thanks for the reply Airmike.

Unfortunately these units are one piece & the coils won't interchange from cylinder to cylinder.

Any other ideas out there guys?

This is the only thing holding my baby down & I really want to be driving her again.

[airmike]

I thought they could be swapped front to back? I don't know that of course.

[KHE]

They can be swapped front to back. Unless it is known what cylinder is misfiring, it wouldn't do much good to swap the coil because it would not be known if the misfire moved to the opposite side of the engine. Logan's post on page 1 described what to do but it requires a scan tool to display the misfire counts.