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damaged tie rod end threads - 90 deville


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While trying to remove my tie rod end for a ball joint upgrade. I flipped castle nut upside down reinstalled it on to threads, and started banging away with my hammer. Now the castle nut wont go back on...... Not happy

Apparently I damaged the threads. Any suggestions on rethreading?

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The correct tool to remove tie rods is a tie rod puller - it is available from Autozone for free in their rental tool program.

Was the stud on the tie rod end damaged or was it just the castle nut? If it is just the nut, you might be able to chase the threads with a tap but it probably would be easier just to buy one at an auto parts store. If the stud is damaged, I'd replace the tie rod ends.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Being the cheap sob that I am, I have done that. (back when I didn't observe the proper tool for the job mantra)

Most times there is enough threads below the cotter pin that you could cut off a couple threads and file the bottom to get the nut started again, grind the mushroomed end and clean the threads to restart the nut. I am willing to bet the threads on the nut are damaged also, and I would replace that.

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I agree with above.

To remove the tie rod end from the knuckle I remove the nut and give the knuckle a good hit with a sledge and 10 out of 10 times it has popped right out. no damage to the rod end.

I dont like the ones with the nyloc nut though because they dont like to tighten back up, they just end up spinning in the hole.

If your stud is damaged I would just replace the tie rod. they are very cheap

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Haha thank you guys, I just ordered myself a tie rod puller a few days ago. I also bought a

new tie rod end (driveworks) I was considering the moog part but it was a little bit more

in price. My initial purpose was to service my ball joints but I couldn't free them up because the darn tie rod end was being stubborn.

Tie rod end puller should make my life a lot easier!!!

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I agree with above.

To remove the tie rod end from the knuckle I remove the nut and give the knuckle a good hit with a sledge and 10 out of 10 times it has popped right out. no damage to the rod end.

I dont like the ones with the nyloc nut though because they dont like to tighten back up, they just end up spinning in the hole.

If your stud is damaged I would just replace the tie rod. they are very cheap

I wish mine would have popped out when I hit the knuckle several times. It was jammed in there pretty good!

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I agree with above.

To remove the tie rod end from the knuckle I remove the nut and give the knuckle a good hit with a sledge and 10 out of 10 times it has popped right out. no damage to the rod end.

I dont like the ones with the nyloc nut though because they dont like to tighten back up, they just end up spinning in the hole.

If your stud is damaged I would just replace the tie rod. they are very cheap

I wish mine would have popped out when I hit the knuckle several times. It was jammed in there pretty good!

By prying with a moderate force on the tie rod end and striking the knuckle (not the stud), the impact forces the morse taper in the knuckle to become momentarily out of round and the two morse tapers will unlock.

Easily said but a lot of times, there is not enough room to strike the knuckle so the puller works well.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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never tried a puller.

Dont like the forks, they just mess things up lol.

As for the brand I would have gone with moog. Driveworks is very cheap

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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never tried a puller.

Dont like the forks, they just mess things up lol.

As for the brand I would have gone with moog. Driveworks is very cheap

You are right, In the process now of finding some legit moog ball joints, I hear a lot about people getting chinese hardware in moog boxes.

I think its a scam lol

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