Catfisher Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I have a blower problem that is long term and persistent. I have a 1996 Northstar DeVille with an intermittent blower problem. In the warmer months,or any time the outside temp is in the upper 40's or higher the blower motor works normally on all speeds; both in auto settings and when operated manually. When the outside temp is between 35 and 45, the blower will come on for a while, then stop working; come back on sometimes, quit again, etc. At 25 or below the blower will not come on at all. When it is working with outside temp about 45 I must keep the blower around a medium speed and not set the inside temp over 84. It will work all day at 45 outside, on medium at 84 or less set temp. If I raise the speed or the temp it begins to cycle on and off. On cold days, like 20 outside, it will not come on at all. Once the outside temp is back up around 50 it will work perfectly. All summer and fall it is fine, but we have no heat in the colder winter season. This has happened for 3 years in a row now and I am going crazy. My daughter drives 30 minutes each way to work, plus on trips we have no heat. The heat is there, a little bleeds out, but the blower won't operate in the cold. I don't think it is a flat spot on the windings or simply a bad blower because it does work all the time in warmer weather. I have the 1996 E/K Platform service manuals from a dealership, but I have no Tech 1 or Tech 2 to properly test the system. Any help or knowledge as to what could be the problem, or answers on how to fix this problem are greatly appreciated. I am on a limited income and cannot afford to just let the dealership 'go at it'. Thanks to all help in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 Check the harness to the blower motor to see if the contacts are burned/charred. If they are, I believe a replacement plug can be purchased. Also check to see if you have the first generation blower motor - the first generation motor has a 1/2" thick steel plate attached to the face. The 2nd generation blower has a foil and fiberglass shield on the face and no steel plate. If you have the first generation motor, it is not if it will go bad but when. Usually, when they go they emit a burning electrical smell and quit working all together. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catfisher Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I will check/clean the harness connections when my daughter gets home from work. The blower definitely has the foil and fiberglass on the face, so it has to be 2nd generation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 my 96 motor went bad. It went from working intermittently to not shutting off. I came out one day and the motor was running with no key. I must have caught it because it didnt kill the battery. The 2 pin plug was all burned also. I bought the new design but could not get it in. I just couldnt get the clearance so I gave up and gambled on a used one from my local yard. That was 2 years ago. It was an original 2 or 3 piece unit and it was cake to install. I also installed the shield over it. No problems at all since. used motor cost me $10 lol. GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catfisher Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 I was wrong on all counts. While there is fiberglass insulation around the casement next to the blower, the blower itself appears to have the heavy steel plate, so it is not 2nd generation. Also, the male post of the black wire on the fan is partially melted/charred; so I definitely need to replace the blower. The plug end of the wiring harness appears to be ok for now. I don't know why I never really checked the plug connection closely. I guess because it runs fine in warmer weather I felt the cause was a cold induced short somewhere else in the wiring. I still don't get why it hasn't quit running in hot weather with the AC, maybe the cold air blowing through the cage cools it in spite of the exterior heat. Then the hot heater air must overheat it regardless of the cold outside air. Thanks for the pointers, it' time for a new motor. Looks like a pretty tight fit to get the old one out. Shock for my bare wallet! With the dealership closed I just looked at several parts stores and the blower motor is over $200.00 at all of them. I'm sure the dealership parts department will be even higher. The last one I bought for my Astro van was about $40.00. I guess I will be searching some salvage yards, I can't pay $210.00 for a blower motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 lol. 2 reasons why I went used. it was freezing out when mine went and I could not get the new one in. I could not afford a new one at the time. Mine did the same thing. These are more expensive because the resistor/controller is built into it GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Rockauto.com has an AC Delco unit for $238.79. The 5% discount code should pay for the shipping. You can also try www.gmotors.com - they are a Cadillac dealer in Florida that sells parts at wholesale prices. You MUST purchase the foil/fiberglass heat shield for the new blower motor. GM used to include that with the blower motor but no longer do so. They figure there aren't many of the gen 1 blower motors out there anymore. The reason the blower is so expensive is the control moduleis built into the blower. The control module is what provides an infinite number of speeds bse on request from the ACM. The original is removed by taking off the inertial plate with the three screws, then replacing the screws in order to hold the blower together. Then remove the 7 screws holding it to the housing. Then rotate the blower motor so the narrowest portion of the flange is toward the cam cover and it will come out. The new blower does not have the inertial plate and is larger so you will need to rock the engine forward by removing the dogbone mounts or lower the subframe slightly. Do not force the blower or you risk damaging the squirrel cage fan. Also, do not cut the housing in order to install the blower motor. Lowering the subframe is not that difficult. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catfisher Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 The new blower does not have the inertial plate and is larger so you will need to rock the engine forward by removing the dogbone mounts or lower the subframe slightly. Do not force the blower or you risk damaging the squirrel cage fan. Also, do not cut the housing in order to install the blower motor. Lowering the subframe is not that difficult. Thank you so much for the removal/installation tips. I had read in the GM repair manual about removing the screws and replacing them to hold it together; but did not understand what they meant due to the books fragmented instructions. Educate me a little more, please. What are the dogbone mounts? What is the subframe and how do I lower it? I want to do this correctly, but I've not heard of these before. When you say rock the engine forward it brings to mind loosening motor mounts and a giant pry bar. Sorry for my ignorance. Thanks again for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 The dogbone mounts are the mounts that connect the top of the engine to the front radiator support. To lower the subframe, put the car on ramps and use a floor jack to support the rear of the engine cradle (subframe). Loosen the rear bolts (four I believe) but do not remove them completely. Use the floor jack to control the lowering of the subframe which will lower the engine enough for the new blower motor to clear the cam cover. It is not that bad of a job to do and will make the installation much, much easier. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catfisher Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks so much for your help with my blower. Since I scraped some char off the base where the black wire becomes the male terminal and tightened the female side of the harness connection, the blower motor has decided to work properly. My daughter is thrilled to have heat for her 30 minute drive to work and back. With the information gained here I now know how to replace the blower if it quits again. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thanks so much for your help with my blower. Since I scraped some char off the base where the black wire becomes the male terminal and tightened the female side of the harness connection, the blower motor has decided to work properly. My daughter is thrilled to have heat for her 30 minute drive to work and back. With the information gained here I now know how to replace the blower if it quits again. Thanks again! Glad to help. When they fail electrically, you will know it... The stench of burned capacitors is unmistakable. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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