hjb981 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 I am about to change the rear knuckle bushings on my '97 DeVille, since they are a bit worn. My question is on where the movement takes place when the suspension travels up or down, since the knuckle will turn relative to the upper and lower suspension arms. Does this twisting take place between the knuckle and outer part of the bushing, or between the inner part of the bushing and the bolt that goes through. Should any lubrication be applied? /Jonas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 The relative movement is in the internals of the knuckle bushings. They are not really bushings but cross-axial ball joints. Be sure to use a blue threadlocker on the bolt that attaches the knuckle to the link at the rear of the knuckle. Also, this bolt must be assembled with the susension at ride heigt so it is not excessively pre-loaded. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjb981 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 The relative movement is in the internals of the knuckle bushings. They are not really bushings but cross-axial ball joints. Be sure to use a blue threadlocker on the bolt that attaches the knuckle to the link at the rear of the knuckle. Also, this bolt must be assembled with the susension at ride heigt so it is not excessively pre-loaded. Would that be the bolt that is supposed to not be reused according to the FSM, but that is also not manufactured any more and hence not possible to buy new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Would that be the bolt that is supposed to not be reused according to the FSM, but that is also not manufactured any more and hence not possible to buy new? Yes - that is the one. The FSM says, "Do not reuse" but it has long since been discontinued by GM.... I ran into this when I replaced the knuckle bushings on my '97 STS about three years ago. The reason for the "do not reuse" warning is the bolt had a locking patch on it. Why the shop manual didn't specify, "coat the threads with Loctite 242" instead of indicating the bolt should be replaced is not clear. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjb981 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Thanks a bunch, that is very good to know. I am not sure that I understand how the cross-axial ball joints would would be pre-tensioned if they were tightened in a position other than the drive position -- does the ball joint in it have limited travel, and that is why, or what could happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjb981 Posted November 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 I had a look at the cross-axial ball joints, and it does not seem to me that they would be able to facilitate much turning of the inner metal pipe (the one that the fastener goes through) and the outer one (the one going into the knuckle. By turning, I mean such that the two "pipes" stay axially parallel. I would guess that any such turning (from suspension travel) takes place between the cross-axial ball joint and the bolt. There did seem to be a small amount of some kind of grease in the inner metal pipe. I guess that the purpose of the cross-axial ball joint is to allow the inner part of it to move so that it becomes nonparallel to the outer part of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 I have never replaced that bolt yet. And I have never used the threadlock on any of them. probably a good idea though. And definately tighten that bolt at ride height. As for the pivot. It is in the joint of the bushings themselves. it is a ball and socket setup that has plastic internals to hold them tight. I will say that changing the bushings changes the ride completely. I hope you got the set that comes with the install sleeves. I dont lubricate anything other than some penetrant spray in the knuckles to help ease pressing in the bushings. Another tip. 1 bushing goes in one way and the other goes in opposite so dont try to press them out in the same direction GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjb981 Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 OK, thanks again for the tips. I got the Doorman bushings, and they did come with install sleeves ("short metal pipes", that are used to push the ball joints in). I am not going to do this job myself though, because I see several steps where I could get stuck for a while, and that would be a problem since I have to work outside on an open parking lot (I have no garage or even driveway). Few hours of light and cold also does not help... Anything I take apart, I have to be able to put back together before dusk. But even if someone else will do the work this time, I still want to stay on top of what is done, and make sure that it gets done in the right way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted November 17, 2012 Report Share Posted November 17, 2012 I only use the Dorman kit. so thats good. I can do both sides in just over 2 hours including servicing the brakes. in the driveway on a jack. if that helps GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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