mhart032 Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Im pretty certain it in the front on the right side of the car (passenger side). i can feel it a small bit in the steering wheel, and in the gas peddle. when i brake i can feel it worse. it makes me wonder if the roter is warped from the factory or possibly from the bad strut mount, ill have to get it trued and i know i need a to get the tires balanced again i put continental Z rated on the front and Michilan H rated on the rear, but with all the jacking it up and down and pulling them off and on i should do it. ill let you guys know what i find. thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Im pretty certain it in the front on the right side of the car (passenger side). i can feel it a small bit in the steering wheel, and in the gas peddle. when i brake i can feel it worse. it makes me wonder if the roter is warped from the factory or possibly from the bad strut mount, ill have to get it trued and i know i need a to get the tires balanced again i put continental Z rated on the front and Michilan H rated on the rear, but with all the jacking it up and down and pulling them off and on i should do it. ill let you guys know what i find. thanks again! It might just be me... but I have had terrible luck getting Continental tires balanced correctly so that they don't vibrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 you know that's actually a thought. i don't remember it have a vibration issue like this when i first got the car. it had the banging over bupms but it was pretty smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 my 99 sts had bad tires that vibrated over 65. Took it to a shop and they showed me how there were large humps in the tires. You kind of had to run your hand over the tread to feel them. Someone either ran the car too fast or over inflated them or a combination of all that and maybe they werent made for a heavy car. Take it in for balancing after youve checked them over. * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 After driving around today i noticed something, the noise is still there but dampened. its not as loud but still noticeable. its not like the driver side going over bumps. the driver side makes no noice and i still hear the faint rattle or banging. let me ask this. when i pulled the strut out to to the top mount it wasnt very strong. i could pull the strut up pretty easy with my hand and hold it there with a pair of big pliers pretty easy. should it be harder than that? ive never delt with struts before just shocks, and shocks it takes some strength to push down on and fully compress them. should these be the same? thanks Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Welp the saga of the 2000 deville continues. seems the more i fix the more issues i have. today the a/c on the driver side went hot warm. freezing on the passenger side, so i ran some tests and put the gauges on it and things checked out. its full on the refrigerant side of things. i replaced the controller with the ont from the parts car, still no difference. thinking it has to be the actuator. but i think as much as i hate to im gonna call it quites with the deville, im looking at a 2005 CTS-V although its so much smaller and i dont really like that. i liked the size of the DTS and i really liked this car but i cant see dropping more cash into this car. i have 2,200 into it after title transfer and tax and registration. the car only books at 4,700 sure im still way below book but do you think its worth putting more into? still have the vibration and now the a/c again possibly needs struts. so i dunno. thanks again for all the help during this saga may it continue or not.. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Welp the saga of the 2000 deville continues. seems the more i fix the more issues i have. today the a/c on the driver side went hot warm. freezing on the passenger side, so i ran some tests and put the gauges on it and things checked out. its full on the refrigerant side of things. i replaced the controller with the ont from the parts car, still no difference. thinking it has to be the actuator. but i think as much as i hate to im gonna call it quites with the deville, im looking at a 2005 CTS-V although its so much smaller and i dont really like that. i liked the size of the DTS and i really liked this car but i cant see dropping more cash into this car. i have 2,200 into it after title transfer and tax and registration. the car only books at 4,700 sure im still way below book but do you think its worth putting more into? still have the vibration and now the a/c again possibly needs struts. so i dunno. thanks again for all the help during this saga may it continue or not.. Matt Most of the time... if the AC is cold on the passengers side and hot on he drivers side... it just needs a little bit of Freon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Ok sitting at discount tire getting the tires balanced and rotated again. I looked at the rears why they had the car up and the rear swaybar it looks like the ball joint boots are shot. Could this be where the vibration is coming from? Would I feel it in the steering and peddels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Ok sitting at discount tire getting the tires balanced and rotated again. I looked at the rears why they had the car up and the rear swaybar it looks like the ball joint boots are shot. Could this be where the vibration is coming from? Would I feel it in the steering and peddels Do you have someone that can drive behind / beside you on the freeway and watch your tires / wheels while you drive it at the speed that causes the vibration ??? They should be able to see which wheel it is, if it is very bad... And about ball joints... if they are bad, then YES... it can cause a front wheel vibration... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 they arent the cheapest cars to maintain or repair so if the costs are already getting too high they can go alot higher with a $2000 TCC replacement or $400 alternator or coil packs etc. You have to be commited to stick with it and know the more you fix the nicer it is and will last for you. If you put in alot of money on this and switch to another used car you are just starting over with more problems. Thats the life of high mileage used cars. You just have to ask yourself if you are going to stick with this car for 3-5 years or so. You seem to have the knowledge and tools to do most all repairs so thats a very good thing. For me I do a fair amount of repairs but i pay way less than if I had a lower mileage newer caddy that I had to pay $350 a month for. I have no car payments so some repairs are actually a cheaper route. * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 I understand that. if i was for sure i could get it running the way i want it, i wouldnt mind putting the cash into it. but it seems i fix one thing and then its something else. Or think its one thing and that not fix it. so far ive done so m uch work to it only to now have what i think is the driverside temp actuator go out. thats 111.00 from the dealer. witch is fine if it in fact is the problem and does fix it. i know its all hit or miss when it comes to these cars because there is so much electrical in cars now days. still have the vibration and im at a loss with that now. ive done everything so it seems and its still there. even did a hunter road force balancing today, and replaced the continentals with michelens on the front. had all the new rotors trued and replaced every bushing and ball joint under the car. ive done the dropping it into 3rd when i get the vibration to check the torque converter balancing, still the same. checked all the motor mounts tranny mounts and struts and upper strut mounts. the car doesnt have much bounce over bumps 10-60mph is super smooth and nice to drive. but i drive alot of highway and the vibration is rite at highway speeds. ive checked the wheel barring hubs and they are tight no play what so ever. ive done everything ive read or thought about with this car. is there something i maybe missing? if i cant get this vibration and the a/c worked out the car is perfect and id love it! thanks again guys Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 There is a very strong possibility that the AC problem is that it is just a little bit low on Freon... Have you changed the back wheels to the front to check on the vibration?? Can you get someone to drive along beside you to actually "LOOK" at the wheels while you are driving it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 I had the tired rotated yesterday before i replaced the continentals, it was less vibration when i did that, so i replaced the continentals all together (the let me return them). im going to have my buddy drive next to me today. we have to pick up some cars from the auction today so its a good opportunity. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted July 1, 2011 Report Share Posted July 1, 2011 Maybe an exhaust rattle just happening at certain sustained RPMs? My fleetwood I have an annoying rattle that feels like its right below my feet under the floorboard. Only thing under there is the exhaust and I just changed the exhaust and it started but the exhaust isnt touching anything. Ive found the parking brake cable that goes through the frame if I mess with that tying it off and such the rattle will go away for awhile but come back. Youve done alot already to find that rattle, hopefully you can narrow it down, it could be something small like my problem. * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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