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Hey all first post here. i just bought a 2000 DTS from an auction and im having a bit of trouble with a couple things.

first,

the A/C isnt cooling. i picked up the car and no cold air. drove it about 15 miles still the same. so i stopped and picked up for 134a and charged it. the passenger side and rear got cold but not the driver side. so i took it for another test drive to check out some other noise issues i was hearing and turned the a/c off and rolled down the windows to hear the other noise. i got back and turned the car off at a buddys house and went to leave and noticed the A/C wasnt cold anymore. from anywhere! the car is only throwing one code. its the IPM B0429 code witch i know is Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance. but from what i understand this would not make the A/C no cool.

Second,

When im driving down the road and i turn the wheel slightly to the right or left i have a bad squeel in the steering, it seems to go away when i move the wheel back to the original position.

Third,

when im turning to the right its kinda hard to turn the wheel (most of the time) and there is a grinding noise like the tire is rubbing on the plastic but louder than that would be. inner fender wheel well. ive checked and all seems fine there no signs of rubbing.

any ideas?

just some info about me. im a classic car guy and have fully restored my 65 mustang and my 67 fastback, also in the middle of a 69 firebird vert restore, and have done all my own work and lots of work on all kinds of cars (never Cadillacs). my buddy is wholesaler so i get roped into lots and lots of repairs including rebuilds.

Thanks for your time and effort to help me out

Matt

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First check to see if the compressor is running at all, if the freon is too low it wont run and will sometimes throw a code. So if its not running after it was running earlier then it sounds like the a/c is obviously leaking. Run some dye in it to help locate the leak. The sensors can leak so make sure to check everywhere you can for leaking dye. That code you got comes up on almost every deville so no worries with that one, it doesnt affect anything either. When cold is coming from all but the driver side then it is low on freon. Which means you didnt get enough in it to begin with and it probably leaked out after that.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Thanks guys. i got all but the ac fixed. there is definitely a leak i can hear it under the hood when i shut the car off. the grinding and all that was a combination of things. breaks, and the bots backed out of the driver side hub. who ever did the work last didn't use thread locker on them and i guess they backed out, or were never tightened up. while i was under there i replaced all the tie rod ends and sway bar bushings. and replaced the control arms. i figured it has 100k mite be time it had some TLC and since i had the tired off i mite as well. the ride is super nice now like a brand new car. im going to work on the ac tomorrow, i think the hose from the evaporator to the accumulator is bad the seems to be where i hear it. so i figure ill just replace that hose and get out the vacuum and the micron gauge and pull the vacuum and see what happends. if i can pull at least 1300 microns it should be good to go. then ill just refill it. from what i understand its a 2lb system? is this correct?

thanks for all the help

Matt

Edited by Mhart032
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Its been a few years for me. 2 lbs sounds right. I think pag 46 oil if I remember right, the medium stuff, might double check on that. I know when I had to do it I google searched it and found it.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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If you are in the mood for tuneups then do some searching on here and find some info. At 100k miles the plugs are supposed to be changed. Use the stock delcos and throw some new boots on as well. Youll be glad to know if the fuel pump or level sensor ever go out there is a rear hatch door in the trunk to get to the pump easily. The knock sensors are notoriously bad on 2000s, use ones made in japan not mexico if you ever need to change them, there are 2. Window regulators go bad in some. Not a whole lot else to tuneup besides changing fluids. I loved my DTS and Im sure you will love yours too!! :welcomesmiley:

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Thanks, i checked in the owners manual and 2lbs is correct. the plugs (used the delco), boots have been replaced. i did that yesterday. seriously parts are wicked cheap for this car. or maybe im just so used to having to buy classic parts and they are super expensive. i dunno. but i can tell you i paid 1400 for the car and put another 150 in it so far and it just keeps getting better. the paint and body and interior are perfect and just the way i like it stock and original. only one thing that is really missing and i cant seem to find is the top chrome that goes on the grill. i dont have the original so it cant be fixed or anything like that. but it looks kinda ugly w/o it. if i have to order the grill ill just bondo it and sand it and paint it. but i would rather have the chrome but the whole grill is expensive. any ideas?

thanks again

Matt

Edited by Mhart032
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One other thing i would like to try and change is this, my buddy had a 2001 DTS with a in dash navigation system in his. is there anyway if i found one that it would work with this car? This 2000 has the bose system in it. but no onstar, well not that i can fine anywhere, not even sure if onstar was around back in 2000 but would this work in a 2000 DTS, actually i found one on ebay for 199.00 it says 2000-2001 but im wondering what i would be missing besides just the head unit.

Matt

Edited by Mhart032
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my 2000 had onstar, it was in the rear view mirror. There is certainly a brain to it somewhere though that you cant just buy the rear view mirror for onstar.

The navigation might work, I think 2002 it changed to a bigger screen version. I would think the hookups are in there.?.

The DTS and DHS grille was chrome on top and body color on the rest. The chrome was actually plastic. The base models had all chrome grilles, also plastic, but not as fancy I say. I bought a grille on ebay that came on the 2005 special edition devilles that was all chrome with big fins and a huge wreath and crest built in the middle that looks like the 06-11 style grilles.

Also they make a few aftermarket grilles. E&G grilles are around $500, these are all metal, I can get them slightly cheaper than ebay has them. There are mesh styles and verticle ones. Some cheap made aftermarket grilles they have are a mesh grille and a billet horizontal bar grille. Or there are plenty of stock grilles for sale as these cars get parted out or people upgrade their grilles.

here is the special edition grille I had.

1000371tx8.jpg

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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That grill is nice, i like that. well i got the ac fixed today. it was a bad supply hose from the compressor. boy was it bad. it had a huge tear in it. no wonder the refrigerant didnt last but a couple mins. also found a doner car for parts. i needed a headliner and the driver side door piller had a small tear in it. i wasnt going to worry about it but i paid 150 bucks for the interior, everything soft but the dash and controls. its a 04 DTS, the seats look like they've never been sat in so it was a good buy my seats have some wrinkles so ill replace them with these i think they will fit. no go on the grill though it had the IR system in it and wont work. on my car. i wonder why i dont have onstar. not a big deal i wouldnt really use it anyway. i have noticed a good vibration at around 70mph think its tires i feel it in the steering wheel. also a bumping noise that sounds like its either in the dash on the PS side or under car on the PS side. its annoying i thought maybe replacing all the bushing would have stopped it but no. possibly a shock/strut? ill have to do my research on that. ive had the car 2 days and i already love it. corse its not quite the same car i drove home from the auction. but its nice, and looks nice specially after driving muscle cars for the better part of 15yrs its a welcome change.

thanks again for the info and help guys, its really been appreciated and super helpful. Now i know why people love there Cadillac's!

Matt

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hopefully not a strut, they are very pricey, around $500 a piece I believe. Thats something to get off the donor car if its bad! If you are into junkyard parts check out car-part.com for cars in your area or others that can ship parts to you.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Ofcorse it has to be the only bushings i didn't replace cause my local parts store could've find them in there system and told me they couldn't be replaced, its the sway bar bushings that bolt to the frame. im pretty sure on this. they look a bit worn and have about 1 1/2 of play in them. guess i should have known better, everything can be replaced and i shoulder have take the parts house word for it. now im pretty sure its not the strut thank god! cause your rite super expensive and the parts car doesn't have them. i noticed a couple lights out in the back seats and at a closer look the lights above the top of the rear doors have been glued to the headliner cause they were broke, and during my trying to pull them off the headliner separated and now looks like crap, so looks like ill be redoing the headliner this weekend, and replacing the lights that are broken with ones from the donor car. i may replace the carpet while i have the seats out when i do the headliner the donor car has perfect carpet and mine has a couple ink or grease stains in the rear hidden under the floor mats. im fine with the stains but if it can be fixed and i already have the carpet why now use it. still at a lose for the grill. i really dont wan to spend 500 for a new grill when all i need is the chrome. mine is the painted with the top piece of chrome and i just need that plastic chrome piece. i may continue to keep looking for it or just forget about it. i dunno. i hate to put all this work into the car to only have it look like crap cause of a piece of chrome that should really only cost 20-30 bucks. i dunno

thanks again

Matt

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Ok, i will. I have to go get the swaybar bushing tomorrow too. went for the first road trip this weekend and ran into a problem. the car was running great till the trip home. all the sudden the a/c went hot and the car started to heat up to about 1:00 on the gauge. then it would fluctuate for 12 to 1 but never over 1, and the a/c would go from blowing hot to blowing cold. i would have to turn it off almost like to reset it or something them it would get cold again. any ideas on this? other than that it runs great. there was no lose of power as far as performance oh and it was 106 today on the way home.

thanks

Matt

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Id wager a guess that the grille is 1 piece and cant be parted. The smiley face bottom is riveted on though and has to be transported to some of the different aftermarket grilles but not that top chrome. A used one should be fairly easy to find.

I know my DTS overheated like that once on a really really hot day. I cant remember if I did anything about it or just chalked it up to a hot day. I know it was the only time Ive seen the temp gauge over 12 oclock and it went back and forth as it was cooling.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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from what ive found the top chrome trim comes with the grille so i think ill just go w/o it till i can find a cheap replacement. i got the headliner and a.b.c pillers done today there were a little saggy kinda coming lose so i just had them redone vs messing with them it was only 150 bucks to have it done not a bad deal and it really makes the interior look so much better. the car ran fine today no issues what so ever. so im just going to chalk it up to 106 degree weather. the only thing that i can think of is that maybe the electric cooling fans are failing and wouldn't cool the freon in the system as well as the coolant in the radiator so ill just keep and eye on it, i have the fans from the 01 so no biggie. but seeing how it was 106-110 that is rather hot for any car. so like i said ill just keep an eye on it. didnt have the chance to replace the swaybar bushings today. the interior guy took to long so thats tomorrows project should take more than an hr to do it, i have hopes that it will fix all thats wrong in the front end as far as the shimmy at high speeds and the low banging noise.

thanks again all

Matt

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Ok so i replaced the swaybar bushings and tightened up everything and the banging is still there. the ride is much better but the noise is still there. so far ive replaced the swaybar end link bushings the swaybar bushings and the outer tie rod ball joints. the motor mounts look good and the cv joints look good. could it possibly be in the struts? the car doesnt sag and is pretty decent when i push down on the hood, and the struts are very tight when i had the front end up and grabbed the struts and tried to move them. this is happening over any type of bumps on the passenger side doesnt do it on the driver side. i shaked down the front end today and everything seems real solid. nothing loose and out of place things look good. any ideas of what it could be? could it be something other then suspension? also the brakes have been replaced all the way down to the roters, also the wheel barrings are tight i grabbed the tire on each side and there is no play in the wheel.

thanks again

Matt

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Ok so i replaced the swaybar bushings and tightened up everything and the banging is still there. the ride is much better but the noise is still there. so far ive replaced the swaybar end link bushings the swaybar bushings and the outer tie rod ball joints. the motor mounts look good and the cv joints look good. could it possibly be in the struts? the car doesnt sag and is pretty decent when i push down on the hood, and the struts are very tight when i had the front end up and grabbed the struts and tried to move them. this is happening over any type of bumps on the passenger side doesnt do it on the driver side. i shaked down the front end today and everything seems real solid. nothing loose and out of place things look good. any ideas of what it could be? could it be something other then suspension? also the brakes have been replaced all the way down to the roters, also the wheel barrings are tight i grabbed the tire on each side and there is no play in the wheel.

thanks again

Matt

The struts have a bearing on them that can make a clunking noise.

Also... check your exhaust system...

Maybe one of the pipes has been bent a little and is hitting something...

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motor mounts are known to go bad but if you were accelerating and still heard the same rattling over bumps then its probably not motor mounts as they should be tight when accelerating.

Hate to say it too but its looking like struts. They are fancy suckers so theres alot that could rattle in them. They are some sort of magnetic and electronic road sensing technology, not your everyday gas shocks. Definately look for used ones at a junk yard (car-part.com) unless you have the funds and think its worth getting new.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Ok, thew motor mount was good, so i didnt replace it. i was pretty much at a stand still till Texas Jim posted about the struts. after further inspection on the struts along with driving into every bump on the road i could find till something broke or came loose i found the upper strut mount bushing tore up. its bad. i never noticed it before but clearly it was the weak point and will be replacing that this morning. im thinking that this is were all my troubles have been im not upset i put all the money into the front end as the car does ride and steer so much better after replacing everything in the front end. any advice for doing this job? it seems straight forward. compress the spring pull the bolts and the whole thing should come rite out, im sure looks can be deceiving but im gonna give it a go. i ordered the top strut mount and the spring bushing and all the other little parts to rebuild the entire system. figured while i have it off i mite as well replace everything (but the strut) that i can get to, ive always found when something is weak in a suspension system it put stress on other components and most the time when you fix it is creates another weak point or wear-out on something else so it wont hurt and its only gonna cost another 30 bucks so well worth it to not have to take the assembly out again later down the road.

thanks again guys, really appreciate your advice on everything thus far.

Matt

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Ok, thew motor mount was good, so i didnt replace it. i was pretty much at a stand still till Texas Jim posted about the struts. after further inspection on the struts along with driving into every bump on the road i could find till something broke or came loose i found the upper strut mount bushing tore up. its bad. i never noticed it before but clearly it was the weak point and will be replacing that this morning. im thinking that this is were all my troubles have been im not upset i put all the money into the front end as the car does ride and steer so much better after replacing everything in the front end. any advice for doing this job? it seems straight forward. compress the spring pull the bolts and the whole thing should come rite out, im sure looks can be deceiving but im gonna give it a go. i ordered the top strut mount and the spring bushing and all the other little parts to rebuild the entire system. figured while i have it off i mite as well replace everything (but the strut) that i can get to, ive always found when something is weak in a suspension system it put stress on other components and most the time when you fix it is creates another weak point or wear-out on something else so it wont hurt and its only gonna cost another 30 bucks so well worth it to not have to take the assembly out again later down the road.

thanks again guys, really appreciate your advice on everything thus far.

Matt

never took those struts out but most cars you can get the strut assemblies out without compressing the spring. Usually have to stand on the brakes to pull the assembly down some but most every car and truck Ive done you can get them out this way. Then compress the spring once its out.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Your rite it just pops out, sucks to get back in. not super hard but not a one person job. well that was it, no more noise it rides great. still have vibration at 70+mph so need to look into that still, thats my normal speed so that has to be fixed. i cant deal with that. otherwise though the car is like brand new below 70 the ride is super nice now and the steering is nice and tight and responsive. any ideas on the vibration?

thanks

Matt

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Your rite it just pops out, sucks to get back in. not super hard but not a one person job. well that was it, no more noise it rides great. still have vibration at 70+mph so need to look into that still, thats my normal speed so that has to be fixed. i cant deal with that. otherwise though the car is like brand new below 70 the ride is super nice now and the steering is nice and tight and responsive. any ideas on the vibration?

thanks

Matt

Glad the strut bearings fixed your clunk.

On the vibration...

Can you tell if it is from the front or back...

Does the steering wheel vibrate???

If you know it is on the front...

To isolate which tire it is...

Move the front tires to the back.... one at a time...

When the vibration goes away... you now know which tire is the problem.

It could be just an out of balance tire...

Out of round tire...

Broke belt...

Bent wheel...

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