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Crankshaft position sensors


hjb981

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When I look in the catalogs from rockauto.com and gmpartsdirect.com, I only find one type of crankshaft position sensor. I know that there are two of them in the Northstar (often referred to as A and B ), and my question is: are they different or the same? I thought they are different, but maybe I am just misinformed..? The question is for a '97 DeVille (maybe most of you know that by now ;)).

/Jonas

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When I look in the catalogs from rockauto.com and gmpartsdirect.com, I only find one type of crankshaft position sensor. I know that there are two of them in the Northstar (often referred to as A and B ), and my question is: are they different or the same? I thought they are different, but maybe I am just misinformed..? The question is for a '97 DeVille (maybe most of you know that by now ;)).

/Jonas

I "believe" the two sensors are exactly the same part prior to the 2000 model engine redesign. Also, I believe that DELPHI was the OEM part supplier prior to 2000.

The reason I mention the 2000 engine redesign is because at that point GM had spun-off DELPHI as a seperate company and GM was buying various parts from "other" suppliers with manufacturing facilities in "foreign" countries.

If you drill down through the Rockauto catalog under IGNITION you will find DELPHI part #SS10090 as one of your crankshaft position sensor part number options.

BUT. Crankshaft position sensor failures prior to 2000 is virtually unreported or not heard of. More likely is a faulty/oxidized/corroded chassis wiring harness connector at the crankshaft position sensor location(s).

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks JimD, how can I check if it is the chassis wiring harness? Where would it be likely to be faulty (the points where it connects to the sensors, or somewhere else?)? One more thing - how do I access the harnesses and their connections to the sensors? Do I need to raise the car, and do I need to disassemble anything to get to them?

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This will not be the most fun you have ever had on a Saturday. The picture link is NOT your year model engine but all the parts are in the same places.

In the picture the two crankshaft position sensors can be seen directly above and below the crankshaft center line split in the crankcase. Unfortunately, the remainder of your car is going to make access a little difficult. You will be removing plastic close out panels and most likely the oil filter and oil filter adapter to gain access to the sensors.

Both halves of both connectors should be sprayed liberally with contact cleaner or brake parts cleaner solvent. And then follow the chassis wire harness to be sure the wires have not contacted the front bank exhaust manifold (or whatever else could damage the wiring).

th_Prone-to-failure-Crankshaft.gif

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks again for the input! Looks like you're right about that not being the best fun one can have on a Saturday... And I have seen the place around the oil filter enough many times when changing oil to know that things above it will not be easy to get to. That engine in the picture is really nice and clean, btw. Even got a chrome oil filter :).

Edit: Just one thing - I like how you phrase this: "Unfortunately, the remainder of your car is going to make access a little difficult." I was thinking something along that line when I first looked at Rangers picture - how much easier things would be if you could work on one thing at a time and not have the others in the way...

Question: Is removing the oil filter adapter straight forward, and will the engine retain (most of) its oil? How is it done?

Edited by hjb981
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Yes it's straight forward. Remove the plastic splash shield from underneath. Just pull the center of the plastic rivets and then pull the rivet. It's tight quarters, but doable. You'll only loos a little residual oil in the oil cooler line. The crankcase will not drain.

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....Question: Is removing the oil filter adapter straight forward, and will the engine retain (most of) its oil? How is it done?

The only oil you lose is what spills when you remove the filter and/or what spills from the filter if you fail to hold it in a vertical position.

For the adapter, first remove the oil pressure sender electrical connector and then 2 (10mm) bolts to remove the adapter plate. There are two O rings sealing the adapter to the crankcase and I strongly advise you purchase new O rings when you purchase the crankshaft position sensors.

It's doable.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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hjb981,

Just curious - why are you replacing the sensors?

I would replace all o-rings when you have it apart. There should be one that seals the adapter to the engine also.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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hjb981,

Just curious - why are you replacing the sensors?

I would replace all o-rings when you have it apart. There should be one that seals the adapter to the engine also.

My first step will be to see if the wiring looks OK and to check the connectors for dirt or oxides on the contact pins. If the wiring/connectors look OK, I will consider replacing the sensors.

Almost a year ago, my engine just quit while moving without touching the gas on a parking lot. I restarted it, and it quit again several times. After that I cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve from carbon, even though I was somewhat skeptical that was the cause. There was absolutely no hesitation, no stumbling, no rough running, smooth idle and so on. The only problem was that it sometimes just shuts off. It still does it, but it can be months in between events. Once it happens, it usually happens a few times though. The fact that the engine runs perfectly fine and idles smoothly, but then sometimes shuts off (always from idle or when in gear but with no throttle applied) led to the suspicion of the crankshaft position sensors. The shut-off can occur anywhere from after 1 second of idling up to several minutes, and it is always smooth up to the stop, and then it stops in the same way it would if I just shut off the ignition. No stumbling, just a clean shut-off. The only code it sets is P1599 - Engine stall or near stall detected. Any thoughts...?

Edited by hjb981
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No idea what could be causing the issue. Intermittent problems are very difficult to diagnose. When was the last time you cleaned the EGR valve? I wouldn't suspect the EGR valve - when it sticks, it will set the pintle position code but cleaning the EGR is free.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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