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C1295 ... "brake lamp switch circuit open"


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well guys, unfortunately I'M BAAAACCKKK!!! LOL. this time with half a smile. since my car's milage was approaching 200K and the water pump went out, the front camshaft gear was melted and the car was only running on four cylinders (due to the prior coil pack problem) i decided to just replace the engine.

a friend of mine just opened a garage and against my better judgement i let his ppl install the engine for me. only because he is a good friend of mine and got me such a killer deal on the engine and the price of the install. ENGINE: $900 (79K mi.) INSTALL: $400.

of course ... "you get what you pay for!" they hosed up my electronics somehow? i think when they dropped the engine from underneath they forgot to disconnect or pinched my harness from the steering wheel, now my heater controls don't work, cruise control doesn't work and i get the "SERVICE AIRBAG" message "B1126".

my traction control light came on and the code "C1295" came up. i noticed one of my 3rd brake light bulbs was out so i replaced it. the code still keeps coming up after i clear it! at times it comes up and stays off for a while.

sometimes, as soon as i clear it - it pops right back up. i can hear the traction control releasing each time i clear the code. sounds like it's right beneath the brake pedal. why would a brake light malfunction trigger the traction control? all the other lights are good.

the other things that are wrong with the car are annoying, but i can deal with them and they may cost a couple hundred to fix, but i still think i made out REAAALLY cheap. i just hate that my car is taking off in "limp mode." not good for the tranny either. i know those n*s are powerful engines and all, but still.

help!!!!

thanks,

reggie

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oh yeah ... when i take the car to get the other stuff fixed, it definitely will NOT be at my friend's shop - LOL. just thought i'd throw that in there! i'll be going back to my regular mechanic. he won't be too pleased, but he should be able to understand - who doesn't try to save a dollar these days?

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You know, I am 57, I have chest pains so i think I'll have a heart transplant, no biggie, I'm getting it cheap.

Explain what you mean by the front camshaft gear being melted?, are you talking about the water pump pulley? The camshaft gears are METAL, no way they melted.

Furthermore, each coil pack handles 2 cylinders if you were running on 4 cylinders it would be 2 coil packs or an ignition module issue.

Why not just fix the existing problems instead of replacing the engine?

Extract and post ALL of your codes in an organized fashion, we here like to be organized unlike some of the cheap mechanics out there

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I would start by looking under the hood and under the car and make sure that all the wiring harness connectors were clean and tight. Also check the fuse blocks in front of the left strut tower and in the trunk on the back of the seat. The B1126 and C1295 may mean that you need to look under the dasyboard, too. If you find any loose connectors or make other repairs, clear the codes and see what comes back - and write them all down and post them here, as BodybyFisher suggests.

It's just possible that you can find and fix all these things without paying another mechanic. Sort of like taking the stitches out yourself after open heart surgery in an Acapulco walk-in clinic, to allude to BodybyFisher's interesting metaphor.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
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Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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You know, I am 57, I have chest pains so i think I'll have a heart transplant, no biggie, I'm getting it cheap.

Explain what you mean by the front camshaft gear being melted?, are you talking about the water pump pulley? The camshaft gears are METAL, no way they melted.

Furthermore, each coil pack handles 2 cylinders if you were running on 4 cylinders it would be 2 coil packs or an ignition module issue.

Why not just fix the existing problems instead of replacing the engine?

Extract and post ALL of your codes in an organized fashion, we here like to be organized unlike some of the cheap mechanics out there

as far as the transplant ... cute! i'm 40 and have 3 ruptured disks and 1 torn, have degegerative disk disease and arthritis in my spine, am on disability, but am in no rush to get a new spinal chord.

what i was saying was that since my car was approaching 200K and i had the problems with the overheating, 2 of the coil packs weren't firing (possible ICM problem) ... why not replace the engine? especially when it had such low miles and i got it so cheap. the codes i got when i ran the last check were: P0452, B1126, C1295, P0440. this morning the only 2 i got were: B1126 and C1295.

i did check under the hood at the front impact sensor for the airbag. it was plugged in. i unplugged it to see if that would change anything - nothing. reconnected it ... connection was clean and tight. checked under the dash, the yellow airbag line is connected. there is one plug that is disconnected. it has four wires on it and has a thin gray connector with four wires. i checked everywhere within reach of where it could go and there are no empty componenents.

i read one of these posts that said something about the brake pedal not being adjusted properly? why would that set of a brake lamp switch?

f.y.i. i was not trying to be a smartass with the beginning of my reply. i just felt as though i was being taunted ... i do appreciate the help. you guys have always been a big help to me. maybe someone just had a bad day? it happens!

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Good one, I just think replacing the engine is a bit extreme and never suggested that you needed to fix it yourself

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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... there is one plug that is disconnected. it has four wires on it and has a thin gray connector with four wires. i checked everywhere within reach of where it could go and there are no empty componenents.

Would that plug reach one of the brake pedal switches??

i read one of these posts that said something about the brake pedal not being adjusted properly? why would that set of a brake lamp switch?

Because brake lamp operation (and several other systems) is all about brake pedal position. And the switches must be adjusted properly (there is no adjustment to the pedal, only the switches can be adjusted).

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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didn't get a chance to check the "mystery plug" yet ... it's like 27 degrees here in PA right now and the weather reaks havoc on my back (not "supposed" to be doing stuff like that anyway - lol). anyway, just got gas and the P0452 code popped up again "fuel tank pressure sensor circuit low voltage." what exactly does that mean?

i will get out and check around once again to see if i can find if that plug goes anywhere or if it's just an extra plug that may have gone to an accessory that my car may not have been equipped with? this really has me baffled. :paint2:

(knocking on wood) the code C1295 has not appeared at all today throughout my daily driving. at times it doesn't appear, then other times it come on and won't go away - don't understand it??? :fighting0025:

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