Engine mounts

[rockfangd]

Hi all the time has come for me to replace my motor mounts.

About 6 months ago I replaced the dogbones, which were shot.

I have always had a small rattle at idle from the exhaust pipe touching the crossbrace about halfway under the car. I thought it was bad donut exhaust mounts so I replaced them and inspected all of the other mounts and nothing else was bad,

So within the last month or so I started feeling this shimmy, especially around 25-30 mph and when I inspected the engine tonight I found that the engine is sitting slightly lower on the driver side rear and rocks a bit more than I am comfortable with. So I ordered all 5, the 2 transmission, the front engine, and the 2 dogbones. I cant wait to change them, This car rides so wonderful I dont know what I am going to do once I get my seville repaired next year.

Any tips would be highly appreciated.

I have replaced a few Cadillac transmissions so that requires removing the mounts anyways,

I know the one on the left mounts to the trans side pan,

The rear mounts to the intermediate side of the transmission, and the front mounts near the oil filter toward the driver side. Any shortcuts would be highly appreciated.

[BodybyFisher]

I replaced two on my 96, the right tranny mount and the front mount.

The front mount is not as difficult as it appears

I explained how I did it in the link that follows.

The side mount is very easy if you need to do that, just support the engine

In this thread, I did some work including the engine mount

http://caddyinfo.ipb...=1entry133356

[rockfangd]

I replaced two on my 96, the right tranny mount and the front mount.

The front mount is not as difficult as it appears

I explained how I did it in the link that follows.

The side mount is very easy if you need to do that, just support the engine

In this thread, I did some work including the engine mount

http://caddyinfo.ipb...=1entry133356

Replacing the front mount has made a huge difference, no more vibration at all, I had not realized how much vibration I was getting from the engine on turns and at speed. No vibration at all. No more BANG when I am coasting at speed when I hit the gas either. ALSO and a shocker, I am not getting the brake shutter any more that I have been trying to fix since I own this car, its gone. The engine must have been oscillating on braking.

Just reading this paragraph has made my day completely, I have been chasing down mu shutter almost a year, rotating tires, replaced all brakes, etc... Mine doesnt bangg but the exhaust does rattle o that hanger underneath, Thank you very much, the shutter has gotten substantially worse and so has the torque steer on acceleration, so I am sure it will be a 100% improvement

[BodybyFisher]

Post your results, it will be great if your job confirms that paragraph

Its not a bad job, I think that I described it good. Remove the studs out of the block it helps to make more room

[rockfangd]

Update.

Ok so saturday I replaced the 3 lower mounts, 1 engine, 2 transmission on my 96 Deville. I will have to post some pics of the retired mounts.

below is a general explanation of how I did all 3, (keep in mind I did all 3 without ever lowering the subframe)

first I did the driver side transmission mount,

Remove left front wheel

Remove shields located at bumper and near RSS sensor

remove the 2 15mm nuts from the bottom of the Subframe

use a jack with a block of wood to support the drivetrain assembly

remove the 3 bolts that secure the upper mount bracket to the side transmission pan(There is one located directly behind the RSS sensor, I used a swivel and came from below the RSS sensor, but you can remove the sensor by removing the 2 10mm bolts. I was afraid of snapping one off so I didnt mess with them)

lift the mount with upper bracket up and pull it out.

Reinstalle with the new mount (TIP only install the lower 2 nuts by about 3-4 threads to help ease installation of the other 2 mounts but also will keep the mount in place)

Second I did the front engine mount, which I might add was a huge PITA.

First remove the plastic shroud from between the subframe and radiator support.

next remove te 2 nuts from inside the access hole inside the subframe

This is the PITA part. the bracket that mounnts to the upper half of the engine mount travels from the lower engine block up past the top of the front head.

remove the beauty trim that covers the radiator support

Carefully remove the square block from the support, (airbag sensor I believe, 4 10mm bolts total, 2 on top and 2 on the back side)

from underneath the car unplug the passenger side cooling fan, then unclip the wire retainer from the fan bracket

ramove the passenger side radiator fan from the top after removing the 2 10mm retainer bolts.

Now you will clearly see the bracket. there are 2 15mm bolts facing almost downward on the front head, remove them

then follow the bracket underneath the car and you will see there is 2 studs pertruding from the engine block. Remove the nuts from them.

On the stud closest to the driver side you will see a support bracket on the stud, Follow the support and you will see a 15 mm bolt, remove that and pull the support out. About 6" long

Now I got lucky in that removing the nuts off the studs the studs unscrewed also so it helped a little.

support the engine with the jack and wood and raise the engine slightly enough to give some clearance, about 2" max. Use common sense on this.

now I unplugged the oil pressure sending unit as it is located directly above the mount, as to not break the sensor.

Now I pulled the whole bracket with mount toward the radiator to gsin access to the upper nuts on the mount.

remove the nuts and then turn the bracket sideways to get access to the mount from the top. The mount has to come out through the top between the engine and radiator.

installation is reverse, but again, only install the lower nuts 3-4 threads to ease installation of the last mount.

Bear in mind this mount was not half as easy doing as it was explaaining how I did it.

The last mount is the passenger side transmission mount (intermediate.)

Remoove right front wheel

remove trim near tie rod

remove the lower nuts from the subframe side of the mount

support the drivetrain with the jack and board.

remove the upper mount retaining nuts

This next is important, Raise the drivetrai enough to take the load off of the mount before continuing as to not bend the bracket

Remove the 2 bolts facing toward you, and there is a third that is seen through the access

the third bolt is up on the top right of the bracket facing about 45' toward the eengine.

lift the bracket and push it forward toward the engine, then remove the mount from underneath.

Installation is reverse but do not tighten the upper bracket bolts without starting all 3 first, I recommend doing the hard to access one first.

Now DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN ALL OF THE MOUNT LOWER NUTS NOW

Remember to retorque the wheels

Now I loosened the dogbone mounts on the radiator support side to let the engine settle with the new mounts and then resnugged them.

I actually recommend replacing them if you havent done so already.

Hope this helps, Please do not criticize me if you do not like how I did this.

When doing this USe jack stands, wood, safety and common sense. I cannot be held reesponsible for irresponsability, This is just for reference

ENJOY your new mounts

[BodybyFisher]

Not sure why your front mount was so hard, mine took less than an hour, did you take the mount apart like this? The top studs had to come out of the block for easy of removal, if I recall, I used a small socket to remove the studs

Here is where mine was damaged

[rockfangd]

my mount looks identical to yours in your picture, When you say remove the studs, are you talking about the ones down below into the block, if so, then I did remove them. How did you remove the entire bracket? That was my issue.

I might add the engine has a whole new stance, the power steering line isnt rubbing on the a/c lines insulation, the rattle is gone, but I dont much care for how close the engine is to the plastic heater box