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Steering rack removal procedure

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Subject car: my "new" '98 Seville STS.

Rack is physically broken (mounting ear snapped off).

No big. It's the reason I got the car for a mega-deal. :)

I've got the FSM, and it indicates to lower the rear of the cradle a bit (I've read 4"?) to allow for removal.

No big deal again, since as you can tell by my user name - I work on Fieros.

I'll pull an engine cradle out if a bolt breaks just for the hell of it! Ha....

Anyhow, just wondering on any hints or tips to make for a smooth job, such as:

- Do I have to drop the exhaust at the cat inlet, or is the flex pipe 'flexy' enough?

- I like how the FSM says on assembly to reinstall the heat shield.... yet they never told you to remove it during disassembly. *cough*

Anything else they omitted?

- is 4" of drop enough? Too much? There's really a sneaky way to push it sideways?

- Some random hose or wiring should be moved, unhooked, etc?

- Particular sequence of 'something' that simply helps?

You get the idea.


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never heard of anyone that had to replace the whole rack. But my only advice like Im sure you already know, is if the part is already broke dont worry about breaking it further to get it out.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got around to tackling this.

Was a slight PITA, but what do you expect after 1/4 million km's and 13 years?

Anyhow, few notes if anyone else is doing it:

* Point the wheels straight, and LOCK the steering before you start.

* Cradle bolts are TIGHT. 141 ft/lbs.

* Loosen all 6 of them about 5 turns, then remove the rear 4 (while the rear of the cradle is supported by a floor jack!).

* Make sure you disconnect the linkages for BOTH the CVRSS sensors, and then remove the driver side sensor.

* Take the nut off for the motor mount that points down, on the driver side to allow enough cradle movement.

* The hydraulic lines are very awkward to get at - it's slightly easier to get them when the cradle is already down the 2-3" required.

* Be careful not to snag any of the sensor wires as you're extracting the rack (out the drive side! Will not clear the other way).

* Drive a flat blade, or a wedge into the steering coupling U-joint to spread it before you drive yourself nuts putting it back on.

* Tighten the rack mount bolts to 90 ft/lbs (pretty sure that's why mine broke - they were almost LOOSE when I started!).

This is also a premo time to look over things while you're down there.

I spotted my very floppy front lower control arm bushings. Which I also then discovered you can't replace! You have to replace the whole LCA assy. Which sucks, but - then I also get a new rear one, and new ball joint all in one shot. RockAuto so far has the best price at about $72 each, which isn't bad. I've spent $60 JUST on a ball joint. Oh, and they're about $370 at the dealer for reference.

Check those brake pads while you're in there too. Better to change before they're dead, and save some wear sensors ($25 each) and rotors.

That's all that comes to mind. Any questions just ask.

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  • 5 years later...


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