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Dr.Fiero last won the day on June 24 2016

Dr.Fiero had the most liked content!

About Dr.Fiero

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    Fanatic (50+ posts)
  • Birthday 02/16/1966

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  • Car Model and Year
    1998 Seville STS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. I would start (the free route!) by swapping your front and rear coil pack/cassettes around, and see if the misfires then turn up on (edit: And apparently bruce types just "this much" faster than me! )
  2. Yes, a misfire. So, start with the basics. If all cylinders are even compression - we can rule that out (low/no compression=poor ignition cycle). Whatever you do, don't go old school on it and start pulling wires off one by one to find which cylinder isn't firing. You can fry all sorts of ignition components that way (when the spark energy has nowhere to go it makes a big mess of things). There are several spark testers out there that simply lean against the wire. But really, you should take it to someone with a proper scope and have them look.
  3. 12 But seriously - do a compression test, and check all ignition components before even thinking about that.
  4. Ah! #19! I've just forwarded that on to buddy - maybe he hadn't had his first caffiene injection yet that morning? We were chatting over email, so I never even looked at the picture myself... thanks!
  5. Thought some might find this interesting. Some annoying. Some amazed, shocked and or dismayed. Like myself, my car (98 STS) isn't getting any younger. And with 270K on the clock of my daily driver, things are starting to wear out. One of them is the seal on my sunroof. It didn't help that the previous owner THOUGHT it was leaking and... GLUED IT SHUT! Well, since the suns starting to come out here, I thought it'd be nice to finally get it open. So, I very slowly and carefully cut back the gunk he used to seal it up, and cleaned off as much as I could from the body, and the seal itself. Unfortunately, the seal was in pretty piss poor shape. No big (I tell myself!)... I've got a close buddy who works at the parts dept of GM. I'll just give him a call! Well, I won't say the price here, but he says "No problem. I can get you the seal for only $xxx.xx! I'll even include the glass for no charge!" (he's kidding). Yes, you heard it right. They don't sell the seal. Just the complete glass assembly! So, has anyone gone to Steel Rubber (or SoffSeal, or one of the other manufacturers) and asked them about making a seal? All they'd need is the exact cross section of it, and how long it was. Then it could be glued or stuck on with 3M trim tape. We can get all these seals for the Fiero's already.
  6. Best fuel we can get here (which I have always run in my '98 - Chevron 94 octane) is $1.55. Per Liter. Which is 5.86/US Gallon. So I'll hear no grumbling about high prices. (I'm sure someone from Europe will now chime in about what THEY pay!) That aside.... If you drive gently (keep your foot out of it), then higher octane is somewhat useless, and you're paying for nothing. If you DO drive hard and run low octane fuel, then you'll get more knock, the ECM will pull back timing (etc) and you'll get crappier mileage. That's my short and skinny on it.
  7. Well, gassed up for the first time since 'the above'. I'll need to do a few more of course, but... sigh... the dash is still off by 6% vs. the pump. I pumped 43.12L's, dash says 40.7L's consumed. Oh well - win some, loose some!
  8. Oh - thought these had the magnaride! Learn something new every day. I tell ya though... I'm missing it already. Just took the car out for a mildly spirited drive. In a curve, going through a dip, the car is way more unstable than it used to be. Oh well, I'll find a set of the correct ones one day and change them back. The solenoid I still have, but it's crimped together, so I'll have to slice it open with the band saw or something. I'll loose the $4 core charge on it. OH WELL! Ha ha. I only replaced the solenoid since the previous owner told me the starter had been replaced about a year before I bought the car. It had an AC Delco reman sticker on it, and looked virtually like new. And for the extra $200? Uhhhh, it's such a quick job, I'll happily do it again if/when required.
  9. Seems like almost everyone has problems, so I thought I'd toss in some GOOD stuff! I'd been having constant hot/warm hard starting issues. If I shut 'er down and tried to restart from say 5 min's up to about 5 hour later, I'd have to step on the gas half way or more then have a long crank before it'd start up. Mostly just annoying, so I lived with it for over a year. Heard the FPR stories, so promptly checked that. Hmmmm.... pull the line, it's dry. Pull a vacuum with my pump; holds. Doesn't look bad. Well, when my starter crapped out on me, I had to drive a spare for a couple days until the weekend when I had to time to replace it. As I was taking the car apart, I of course pulled the FPR vac line off. It's SOAKED! Dripping wet. Well! Guess it WAS bad after all! Replaced that, now the hard starts are gone, the light idle surge is gone, the cruise control surge at light throttle is gone, mileage has perked up... and hopefully now the 'fuel used' on the dash will line up with the pump (instead of the 5-7% variance I've always had since I got it). Win #1! Occasionally (once a month?) would have a solid 'click' when hitting the key, and no crank. Hit it again, fired right up. Lived with it for over a year. Mid last week, the luck ran out. Get car towed home and wait for weekend (see above!). I'd heard all sorts of dreaded "hours and hours" to replace stories. Bah! I had the starter in my hand in about 45 minutes, and could have done it faster if I'd had my fuel line release tool available. Replaced just the solenoid (~$45 vs $250 for a whole starter!). Works great now. Gave me a chance to clean things up (muck & grunge) too. Win #2! Rear shock (w/magnaride) air bags had cracked and were leaking. Boooo. Found a set at the wreckers from a 2001 for cheap. No magnaride. Installed them anyhow, and stuck a 4.7K resistor across the now vacant plug (thanks Jim!). No codes! No more pump running all the time! Win #3! Anyhow, thought that made for a pretty good weekend of assaults, and thought I'd share. Happy motoring!
  10. I really think you have ground issues! There are SO many ground points. When I first got my '98, I fixed 3/4 of it's problems in one shot by fixing a rotted up ground connector under the ECM where about 10 points all join (not saying this location is YOUR issue btw!). Check for a loss from the engine to the body, battery to body, battery to engine (etc etc!) using a voltage drop test, then just narrow it down.
  11. Oops - yup, got the fe3 & f45 parts backwards. And yes - I realize the CVRSS & and the air bag/lift functions are separate. As I was saying, I've already got a near new set of rear's from a non-f45 (vs fe3!) car. And if there's no feedback from the shock, then the 4.7K resistor will work just fine! (I assumed [incorrectly] that GM would be sneaky and have the shock talk to the upstream module) I just got off the phone with a guy (who it turns out lives 5 min's from me!) wrecking a pristine '99 STS, but it sounds like it's going to be a real hassle to get anything from it... so I'm going to try this passive shock & resistor plan. Thanks Jim!!
  12. The rear shocks on my 98 STS FE3 (cvrss, etc) seem to have finally popped a hole/cracked the air bags. They're fine other than that (which sucks!). I've got a spare set of shocks from a NON FE3 car in great shape though. In looking at the Arnott ones, then seem to be just that! A set of bagged, non electronically dampened shocks that have a "bypass" module with them. I'm thinking that if I were to figure out what signal the shock is sending back to the BCM (hook up my DSO to the shock and wiggle it?) and duplicate it, I'd be set? That or.... anyone figure out how to fix the bags?!
  13. Never said it was a bad sound. Rather listen to that all day than a Subaru.
  14. I have Magnaflows on mine. At idle they give it a nice low rumble. At WOT, it's more like a 5L mudstain being revved! One thing to remember is that they're right under your trunk. That giant echo chamber. So whatever you think it might sound like, it'll probably be louder.
  15. Same year - same problem. Luckily, it's only happened 2 or 3 times now, and each time I managed to just shut it down, clear the codes, and restart with no problems. But it's been shorter intervals between occurrences each time. I'm going to go over all the connectors, and of course grounds. If I find anything I'll post back!