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tree sap


KenD

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I've noticed that the Caddy doesn't have the nice velvety smooth feel anymore to the paint as it's got those tiny little "nicks" of tree sap on them. Other than not parking under any trees, which is an impossibility in my city, how have you tackled this problem with cleaning them off? I've just washed it again and they're still there.

1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles)

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this is going to take some work but wd-40 on a rag will take the sap right off, however you will have to wash and wax after using wd-40 as it will remove the wax also.

Jeff

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WD-40 on a rag is pretty good advice. Let the stuff soak for a while to make sure it softens up the sap, and hope it doesn't soften up the finish. I've had some success with the Mothers Clay Bar kit, but the sap had set hard by the time I used it. The clay bar reminds me of a piece of "duct seal", but instead of being gray, it is yellow. You spray some "lubricant" (like a spray wax, included with the kit) onto the surface, then use the clay bar to "cut" the sap off of the finish. I follow with some cleaner wax, then the Mothers Gold (also included in the kit).

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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I am a big fan of washing the car or having it washed good and then using a clay bar over the hood and trunk lid.

Go to http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/index.cfm and click Quik Clay Detailing System, the finish is like GLASS after you use the CLAY. After that you can polish and wax, Mike GLASS!

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Go to a local auto paint supply store, and ask for a product made by Dupont called "Pre-Kleeno". It's a petroleum distallate based solvent that is used primarily as prepatory cleaner on body work, prior to paint. It is the best oil/tar/bug/sap/etc. remover I have ever come across. The beauty of it is it's non-residual properties. It evaporates completely, leaving no trace whatsoever. I've often seen it used with a new diaper, to prep a car's surface before detailing.

Our paint shop uses it at work on mil spec surfaces, if that means anything to you. One of the handiest uses (and best test) I found with the stuff one time was removing pure white "Thermate", a silcon based electrical cooling grease from black pants I was wearing in the lab. After scraping as much of the gunk off as possible, I swabbed my pants with that Pre Kleeno....All the white grease gone, and the PK evaporated, without a trace.

I keep a gallon of it in my shop at home. It really goes a long way, and costs around 25 bucks.

'93 STS.. opened, dropped, wide...fast.

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Bob D, Make sure that stuff is not MEK or Perchloretheylene, both great solvents, and carcinigens. But, if you get some on your skin it will make your hair stand up. OH, sorry.

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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Bob D, Make sure that stuff is not MEK or Perchloretheylene, both great solvents, and carcinigens. But, if you get some on your skin it will make your hair stand up. OH, sorry.

>MEK or Perchloretheylene<

J/G, Absolutely, positively neither of those two chemicals in Pre-Kleeno..

That hair?...Hey it's natural, man...(It come's naturally, when you hang around high voltage for many years).. :o

'93 STS.. opened, dropped, wide...fast.

user posted image

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I've noticed that the Caddy doesn't have the nice velvety smooth feel anymore to the paint as it's got those tiny little "nicks" of tree sap on them. Other than not parking under any trees, which is an impossibility in my city, how have you tackled this problem with cleaning them off? I've just washed it again and they're still there.

There was a previous discussion thread on this group about tree sap and removing it. WD-40 is the way to go, just make sure the cloth you use is very soft, preferably microfiber and use LOTS of WD-40 to keep the car surface saturated to avoid scratching.

Wash and wax the car afterwards.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Bob D, Make sure that stuff is not MEK or Perchloretheylene, both great solvents, and carcinigens. But, if you get some on your skin it will make your hair stand up. OH, sorry.

MEK in a paint cleaner ????,... that would be a dirty trick....

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I use a spray bottle mixed with soap and water and a clay bar to make my paint feel smoove again. I tried Maguires detailing spray and it didn`t work as well as the soap and water. The deailing spray is expensive and it didn`t provide enough of a lubication to prevent the clay from steaking on the paint . When that happens its a pain to remove the dried clay streaks.

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I use a spray bottle mixed with soap and water and a clay bar to make my paint feel smoove again. I tried Maguires detailing spray and it didn`t work as well as the soap and water. The deailing spray is expensive and it didn`t provide enough of a lubication to prevent the clay from steaking on the paint . When that happens its a pain to remove the dried clay streaks.

Good tip that is the only thing I dislike about the clay bar, it tends to STICK will try your method. Mike

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Back when I was a little more intense about these things than I am now I used to put a cup of kerosene in with the wash water. Did a nice job on sap. If keosene was not available I substituted mineral spirits (paint thinner) with good results. Didn't seem to bother the wax which was Simonize in those days.

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Hmmm, never had a clay bar leave a streak. I wonder why? I just use the stuff that came in the kit, a little cleaner wax after, then the Mothers Gold. Maybe you guys have some dead paint or something that tends to make the clay stuff stick. By the way, the clay bar I got was yellow in color and felt like duct seal...real sticky to the fingers. Are we all talking about the same stuff?

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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Hmmm, never had a clay bar leave a streak. I wonder why? I just use the stuff that came in the kit, a little cleaner wax after, then the Mothers Gold. Maybe you guys have some dead paint or something that tends to make the clay stuff stick. By the way, the clay bar I got was yellow in color and felt like duct seal...real sticky to the fingers. Are we all talking about the same stuff?

Yeah, you just need to use a lot of lubricant; usually, the stuff that comes with the clay is great. If nothing came with your clay bar, buy some of that "quick wax" stuff marketed under many names...Speed Shine, etc. As long as you use a lot of this as lubricant, and keep the clay wet and constantly turn/knead it, it shouldn't stick. I've also used a Mothers clay bar and was real pleased with the results.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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JohnnyG Posted on Aug 2 2004, 04:07 PM

Maybe you guys have some dead paint or something that tends to make the clay stuff stick.

If there is dead paint on a vehicle (dead as I describe is; a finish that is rough and has no luster/shine remaining), what, if anything can be done to refresh it?

Thanks!

Jim White

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JohnnyG Posted on Aug 2 2004, 04:07 PM

Maybe you guys have some dead paint or something that tends to make the clay stuff stick.

If there is dead paint on a vehicle (dead as I describe is; a finish that is rough and has no luster/shine remaining), what, if anything can be done to refresh it?

Thanks!

Jim White

I have found the Maguires three step process, to be amazing, good wash first 1) cleaner (if necessary), 2) polish, and 3) wax. If the cleaner step does not take off the little spots, tar and sap, I use the clay bar and its gone. I think it sticks because I use too much pressure and not enough detailing spray but it does an incredible job of getting debris off the paint.

The polish step FEEDS the paint and gives it the liquidy feeling we all love. Try the three step process, I did it to my son's 91 Plymouth this weekend and the paint which was DULL looked incredible afterward... Mike

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Thanks Scitty.

It is for my Bronco. The paint is great for everywhere on the vehicle except the top, which is very dull.

Thanks again!

Jim

It all depends on how dead it is. If it's just heavy oxidation that can be taken care of with a buffing wheel and some very mildly abrasive polish. If it's really bad, or looks vaguely like alligator skin, it will have to be removed and repainted.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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I agree with Marika that the dull paint may benefit from a little mild polishing compound if it is badly oxidized. I do think however that the Maguires cleaner has a mild compound in it as it immediately brings up the paint to its true color. Feeding it with polish then only makes it shine, and the wax seals and protects it. I have never been a fan of using a machine on the paint, I like the Karate Kid hand method, WAX ON, WAX OFF, it's good for your PECS! Let me know how it comes out if you use it, Mike

Its the Meguiar's DEEP CRYSTAL SYSTEM (if you are a fanatic the clay is good)

http://www.meguiars.com

Deep Crystal Car Wash

G-10464 ....................64 oz. (1893 ml) $3.99 add to cart

Deep Crystal System Polish

A-2116 ....................16 oz. (473 ml) $4.99 add to cart

Deep Crystal System Carnauba Wax

A-2212 ....................11 oz. (325 ml) (Paste) $4.99 add to cart

A-2216 ....................16 oz. (473 ml) (Liquid) $4.99 add to cart

Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner

A-3016 ....................16 oz. capacity $4.99 add to cart

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