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Alternator update


kcd1184

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Followed the Helm's manual and removed the alternator. took it to an electronics shop where they specialize in alternators. Hooked it up to a test machine and it was not performing very well.

I watched him open it up and it was pretty well cooked. I left it there yesterday

and picked it up today after a complete rebuild. He put it back on the test machine and everything was reading correctly. He had told me where the readings should be the day before. Took it home and put it back in the Eldo and here is what I have.

It still doesn't read 14.2 even with the air off. It shows around 13.6 when running

normal/air. At idle or low rpms it drops into the 12's. I found out that the battery was too small (450 cold crank) so I put a new Interstate(800 cold crank) in the Eldo.

Here's what I'm going to do. It cost me $139 for the rebuild,tax included. I and got to learn a little bit about car itself and except for the funny numbers, I'm pretty happy about this episode.

The light flicker in the speedometer and odometer is gone so I'm going to keep the voltage readout off and enjoy the ride. New tires are next. I've decided on Cooper. Lifeliner Touring SLE (H Rated)

Kent

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It still doesn't read 14.2 even with the air off. It shows around 13.6 when running

normal/air. At idle or low rpms it drops into the 12's.

these are normal voltages to me...

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Mine is mid to high 13's with the air on so yours sounds normal. Check it with the air off while driving for a while. I suspect you'll get into the 14's.

I just put tires on mine the other day and wanted to go with Coopers but couldn't get them in white wall so wound up with Michelin Symetry. I've heard good things about the Coopers.

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A low battery will result in voltages in the 14's but a fully charged battery will result in voltages in the 13's. So your numbers are just fine. You don't worry about it until it is in the 12's while at speed. It is possible to turn on so many electrical devices at idle that the voltages will fall low but if they pick up when the engine is sped up it isn't a problem.

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An important part of the voltage readout (imo) is the voltage reading with the key on engine off, around 9 volts min.

The gen. voltage can vary for i think it is a on demand system. Some guages can give false readings I had a 89 camaro that showed 13 volts but on a tester it actually put out 14.2 When the charging system is known to be good make a mental note of the various readings for future use. Mike

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A low battery will result in voltages in the 14's but a fully charged battery will result in voltages in the 13's.

I believe better say good battery instead of ‘full battery’ and bad battery instead of ‘low battery’. Because of old (bad) battery has higher resistance then a new one, it’s voltage getting high pretty quickly, but that’s actually a bad sign. A new battery has less resistance and its voltage doesn’t get high fast when it’s getting charge. So now your's battery voltage looks pretty fine to me.

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I believe better say good battery instead of ‘full battery’ and bad battery instead of ‘low battery’. Because of old (bad) battery has higher resistance then a new one, it’s voltage getting high pretty quickly, but that’s actually a bad sign. A new battery has less resistance and its voltage doesn’t get high fast when it’s getting charge. So now your's battery voltage looks pretty fine to me.

good point!

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I believe better say good battery instead of ‘full battery’ and bad battery instead of ‘low battery’. Because of old (bad) battery has higher resistance then a new one, it’s voltage getting high pretty quickly, but that’s actually a bad sign. A new battery has less resistance and its voltage doesn’t get high fast when it’s getting charge. So now your's battery voltage looks pretty fine to me.

No, I stick by what I have said. You can have a brand new battery and run it down by cranking and it will charge in the 14's when you get the engine running. It will stabilize in the 13's when charged. (Use a real voltage meter not the dash.)

Perhaps you are getting spoiled by the modern engines that start easily and are not used to exausting a battery cranking? (Yup, I have been aroud a while.)

The original poster here is upset to see it only charge in the 13's and thinks he was cheated. Everything is fine he just has a good/full battery.

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I didn't say the new battery can't be charged up to 14V.

And that is true when voltage getting a bit lower while charging - up to 13's.

This is just because even more or less new battery became a bit alkanized after time but long charge make the battery less alkanized, it resistance became lower and voltage getting a bit lower. But if the voltage is really low on a moment of a startup, and then grow pretty fast up to 14 - it is a bad simptom.

Capacity of the battery can't be more then Amper X Time. When voltage growing in a process of charge, current became lower, so when it reaches near to 14 and up, current is really low. But yes, if the battery is new, the charge current after engine's start can be much higher than if the battery is alkanized.

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