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1986 Seville Starting Problems


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Does anyone have any advice? Our 1986 Seville has starting problems. When it is hot out and you just make a short trip, theres no problem. When you drive a longer distance and turn off the car and restart it, it wont restart. There is no sound when you turn the key at all. The dash has a "Driver Information Center" and when you look under "Engine Data" the Coolant temp (when the car won't start) will be about 212 degrees, the car will not start until the Coolant temp is below the mid 180's. We have to sit and wait for 45 minutes until the temp goes down, then the car starts with no problems. I had the starter and battery tested. A friend had mentioned it may be the starter cylinoid? If anyone has had this type of problem and what it took to correct it, please let us know! Thanks!

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212 degrees is not hot at all normal ranges from 195 to 215 unless you are in traffic. Its unlikely related to overheating, but something is acting up when the car is 'hot' that allows the car to run but once turned off the 'component' does not function. When you say there is no sound at all, you mean that the starter does not try to start the car? No cranking, no clicking? If you have an electric fuel pump do you hear it cycle? Do you hear the air compressor cycle on momentarily? If not I would clean the battery connections and check the cables for corrosion that runs up the cable through the lug connections and check the grounds. Its also possible that your solenoid is shorted when its HOT and works only cool. Let us know. Mike

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Here's more info about the problem: When I turn the key to start the car, there is no cranking or any noise at all. The headlights work and I do hear the fuel pump. Once we wait for the car to cool down, it starts just like normal.

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Here's more info about the problem:  When I turn the key to start the car, there is no cranking or any noise at all.  The headlights work and I do hear the fuel pump.  Once we wait for the car to cool down, it starts just like normal.

I would look to a defective solenoid. You did not mention whether or not your lights dim when you turn the key. When it happens have someone turn the key and look at the headlights to see if they dim. Mike

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The "no sound" thing is curious. Where is the neutral safety switch in that car? Have you tried shifting into Neutral, or pullinmg the shifter up past the "PARK" position while cranking (or attempting to) ? Possible that the op[erating btemp range is causing just enough expansion to cause you a problem.

Good luck,

Tim

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The "no sound" thing is curious. Where is the neutral safety switch in that car? Have you tried shifting into Neutral, or pullinmg the shifter up past the "PARK" position while cranking (or attempting to) ? Possible that the op[erating btemp range is causing just enough expansion to cause you a problem.

Good luck,

Tim

This is a good suggestion, but I did not consider it as the problem appears to clear when the car cools down. However, this is definately a possibility, with the no sound. Maybe you giggle the gear selector causing it to start. Try doing what Tim says to do.. Mike

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this may be unrelated, my old car a 1988 pontiac t/a had a similar problem. exactly as you described. mine turned out to be the solenoid on the starter,the exhaust manifold was routed so close to the solenoid that all that heat would cause to fail temporairily. i was stumped, but was given an idea to carry a gallon of water in the trunk til it acted up again. so for a couple weeks when i was stranded,my quick solution to splash the starter with water worked every time till i purchased a thermal shield from summit

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I had similar problem recently - no problem to restart after short trips, but would not aftet one hour plus trip. Had to wait for some 30-40 minutes. I do not think the problem is the high temp because you may get around 200 even after a short trip. Bbobinsky suggested rich condition and checking fuel presure regulator for leaks. I have chcked and it was fine (dry). Another possibility is a leaking fuel injectors. Did not have a chance to check them out. Another thing THE bbobinski adviced starting with gas pedal floored (clear flood mode). Did not test it since did not have a long enough trip yet.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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this may be unrelated, my old car a 1988 pontiac t/a had a similar problem. exactly as you described. mine turned out to be the solenoid on the starter,the exhaust manifold was routed so close to the solenoid that all that heat would cause to fail temporairily. i was stumped, but was given an idea to carry a gallon of water in the trunk til it acted up again. so for a couple weeks when  i was stranded,my quick solution to splash the starter with water worked every time till i purchased a thermal shield from summit

Bingo, I have seen this before and you have experienced it. Some cars have a large plate that bolts on the side of the starter that acts as a heat shield/spreader. It could just be that the solenoid has crapped out from years of heat. Maybe its time for a new starter/solenoid depending on how old the starter is. However the cheapest route obviously is the solenoid only. Mike

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Bingo, I have seen this before and you have experienced it. Some cars have a large plate that bolts on the side of the starter that acts as a heat shield/spreader. It could just be that the solenoid has crapped out from years of heat. Maybe its time for a new starter/solenoid depending on how old the starter is. However the cheapest route obviously is the solenoid only. Mike

Good thinking Mike. I need to think abou that possibility as well.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I just looked at the starter shield and it was pretty rusted. I am going to take it off and wrup it up with aluminum foil to increase heat reflection (long infrared). Let's see if it helps. Another temporary measure to prevent overheating - open the hood to cool the engine faster. May help. But the radical step is replacing just Bbobinski adviced.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I just looked at the starter shield and it was pretty rusted. I am going to take it off and wrup it up with aluminum foil to increase heat reflection (long infrared). Let's see if it helps. Another temporary measure to prevent overheating - open the hood to cool the engine faster. May help. But the radical step is replacing just Bbobinski adviced.

I would be careful doing that remember that aluminum foil conducts electricity.... your main battery power plus the solonoid connetions, PLUS the potential for grounding out is right there, Mike

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I would be careful doing that remember that aluminum foil conducts electricity.... your main battery power plus the solonoid connetions, PLUS the potential for grounding out is right there, Mike

Sure Mike, I will disconnect the battery during the procedure and will post the results if I survive! :D

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I would be careful doing that remember that aluminum foil conducts electricity.... your main battery power plus the solonoid connetions, PLUS the potential for grounding out is right there, Mike

Sure Mike, I will disconnect the battery during the procedure and will post the results if I survive! :D

Thats not what I meant, I am sure that there is wind turbulance at highway speeds that could blow the tin foil into an electrical short. I would not want you to accidently set your car on fire. Have you ever seen the postive cable burst into flames if it's shorted out at the starter? I don't think you will change the heat situation much with the tin foil.

Now maybe if you basted with butter every 30 minutes that would help! :lol:

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I second, third, and fourth the solenoid. I had the same problem wontgoslo had with a GM V6 (mid '70's vintage). Replaced the solenoid and problem solved.

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Solenoid alone did it for me. It sounds like when it heats up, the contacts expand and break contact. Cool down, contract and you have contact again. I would suspect the solenoid not the starter.

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i replaced the passenger side since the noise got louder when i turned left.it's not a real loud whine but it's definetely there. i hope by replacing the other side cure it

todd

thanks Todd, I wish it were only solenoid.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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IF it is an old starter , and you have gone to all the trouble to take it out to replace the selenoid , then take it to a decent starter and generator shop and have them rebuild the whole thing. As luck normally is , when you replace one part of the starter , the other part is not too far behind.

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IF it is an old starter , and you have gone to all the trouble to take it out to replace the selenoid , then take it to a decent starter and generator shop and have them rebuild the whole thing. As luck normally is , when you replace one part of the starter , the other part is not too far behind.

Not a bad idea. Just did that on my wifes Bonneville. $25 for a new clutch installed and it is as good as new.

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I just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the advice!

I think I will replace the starter and see how things go from there...

I have other problems too, like for example, my computerized dashboard (speedometer, gas guage, mileage) is out most of the time. Sometimes it appears and sometimes it doesn't. We already replaced the switch for the interior dimmer which also controls the headlights and parking lights. I guess my car has a mind of its own.........

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I just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the advice!

I think I will replace the starter and see how things go from there...

I have other problems too, like for example, my computerized dashboard (speedometer, gas guage, mileage) is out most of the time. Sometimes it appears and sometimes it doesn't. We already replaced the switch for the interior dimmer which also controls the headlights and parking lights. I guess my car has a mind of its own.........

I have had a similar problem with a 1986 Corvette, and had the instrument cluster reconditioned. I had very good results with Model Electronics, 321 West Route 59, Nanuet, NY 10954, (800) 433-9657, http://modelelectronicsinc.com/index.htm

You will need to remove the cluster, pack it up and send it. Typically, its not really a big job if you follow the service manual. The local GM dealers use this company, in 1996 it cost me $190 for the Corvette cluster repair. Mike

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