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Wnet through flooded road on Saturday


hiljak

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It was like the movie Hard Rain. Torrential down-pour for at least an hour and flash flood's everywhere. AT one point, waster was up high enough that the wake from the front was blocking my headlight beams. I turned around and got out of there but there were cars everywhere stalled out. My car never missed a beat. (1999 STS). Got it back to the hotel parking garage and parked on the top B)

However, I noticed on the way hoome the next day, the car's idle is not wright. It stumbles a little and you can see it on the tac. Also, yester day it just died then started back up. The only code in there was 1599 (near stall or miss). Should I be concerned that water is in the system yet somehow it is still running?

I have changed the throttle position sensor to no avail.

James

1999 STS 65k

1995 STS 127k

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Several years ago, when I lived in Upstate NY, we had a torrential downpour that lasted for hours. Washed out roads (the area I lived in was declared a disaster area), "floated" vehicles out of their parking spots, destroyed homes, etc.

At the time, my 85 Fleetwood Brougham was my everyday driver. All the roads leading to my home were closed, folks were being evacuated and taken to makeshift shelters. I had to get home, as one of my kids was there alone, and scared $h#tless, so after being turned by PD and Fire at every possible turn, I headed into the back country, to go home on some of the "lesser used" mountain roads. At one point, I had to cross a small bridge over a great trout stream, that was now flowing over the top of the bridge, so much so that the water was pounding the drivers side window as I crossed, petal to the boards, steering into the deluge, as the flow was literally pushing me laterally to the other side of the road, where there was nothing but a guard rail, and about a 10 ft drop to the water below. Further up the road, after seeing numerous vehicles that had been abandoned after being pushed off the road into the woods, the low spots had become ponds. I got out and carefully walked thru them to gauge the depth, and make sure that there were no obstructions, and then got back into the car and drove thru them. Three feet of water in some cases. That 15 mile trip took 3 hours.

Long story short, after driving past and around many, many "swamped" and abandoned vehicles, WE got home, thanks to that TANK of an automobile.

The next day, after the sun came out, I had to wash the mud off of the top of the air cleaner housing, just to give you an idea of how deep we were. Wiped out the alternator. All in all, a small price to pay.

Just an amusing aside. About 30 minutes after we got home from this harrowing "adventure," a fireman came to the door and said he was there to evacuate us. I asked him if he was armed. He replied that he was not. I informed him that I WAS, and he would need to be, if he even had a HOPE of getting me out of my home at that point. Told him that I appreciated his time and effort, but there was no way that I was leaving after what I went through to get there.

Amusing story as I look back, not at the time though ! But what a testament to the resilience of the MIGHTY CADDY !!!

Cheers,

Tim

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Also, change the OIL as soon as possible just to be on the safe side.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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I remember when my old Chevy got trapped in very high water during Hurricane Floyd. The carburator took on water because of a passing SUV who thought it was funny to fly through the water and create tidal waves that caused numerous cars to stall out. I had to push that car out of the water which I did. Lucky for me, the engine was so hot that she started right up again and a massive blast of steam rolled out of the exhaust pipe for a good five minutes or more. There was a cop sitting inside his police car, parked on the side of the road, nice and dry. He never once bothered to help me push the car out of the water and in fact, decided to antagonize me after I had pushed the car out of the water myself and onto dry ground; he came up to my driver side window and told me he would have helped me push the car but he didn't want to get his uniform wet. What a wuzzzz he was. I just rolled up my window and drove away.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Just be glad you weren't running an open element air filter and had the factory airbox on! :)

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Just be glad you weren't running an open element air filter and had the factory airbox on! :)

Amen to that. Every now and then i think "hmmm maybe I'll modify the airbox", then I think back to a few times when I took a nose plunge into thigh high water but kept on going. I like the thought of being able to keep on going. Yup this ol factory airbox is alright by me. Someone was thinking.

-kg

207,000 big ones

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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Year 1970,

I'm driving the '64 Dodge Dart about 80 downhill to rush my young hyperventilating, severly-ill bride to student health services at Iowa City during a multi-day downpour. Noticed strange reflections in the road from traffic ahead and wondered a little - why they were stopped across the bottom of the hill alongside the river...

Hit the road/lake at full speed and the car sprouted water most everywhere...hood sides, over the door sills, under the dash. :o

Kinda reminded me of the early rocket sled tests that used water barking to simulate g-forces, etc. :blink:

Got her out of the back of our drowned Dart and opened the door on a slowly (read sanely) driven '64 Chevy, that burbled like it was backing in a trailer at the boat dock. Managed to get the rather surprised Chinese couple in front to keep moving and we got to the hospital. She was OK (found out our first-born son was started up)! :P

The Dart only needed a few days to dry out. Had to pound nail holes the floor to get it to drain (before wet vacs). No computers thank goodness - just look for obvious stuff like torn loose wires, panels etc. Amazingly tough little car though. Still ran fine, even after I added 2-quarts of oil to the radiator by mistake at night a few months later.

She's still a little nervous about driving near water, but its not a big problem in this state. ;)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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I realize I am very lucky that the car did not ingest water. A few years ago (before I was converted to a Caddy driver), I had a little Acura Integra with a cold air intake which was basically a tube routed down to about 10 inches from the ground with K&N filter on it. Needless to say I went through a semi flooded area (nowhere near the flood I was in this weekend) and the car injested water.

I had it towed to the shop and the rods were bent like twigs. Luckily, insurance covered the engine rebuild as a compreshensive flood claim B)

Bob, I will check the spark plug boots and see if that fixes the slightly rough idle condition. Sounds very plausible.

I was feeling some cluncking when shifting and thought it may be the trans even though there were no codes being thrown to suggest it. I took it to AAMCO for a free diag and they assured me the trans is 100% solid and not the problem. They said that every motor mount appears to be worn and that is where the clunking/grabbing is coming from. I will look into the cost of the mounts but is this something that can be done at home? I have a floor jack, air tools, etc.. And also, is it strange for a 65k 99 STS to have bad motor mounts? If you saw how clean it was, you would wonder if it had even been driven LOL.

One code that I have is history AMP-U1064 (loss communication with DIM). What is DIM and does this mean anything? One more thing, does anyone know the key to "back-up" when reading the codes on the 99 STS. I know on/off is yes but can;t figure out how to back-up or exit out of the diagnostic without turning off the key.

Thanks for everyones help as always. :D

James

1999 STS 65k

1995 STS 127k

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Well, I pulled the plug wires to check them and I can clearly see that the four front wires have all been arcing where they rest on the engine. I am on the way to get new wires now. When the wife gets home I'm going to have her power brake the car in drive and reverse so I can try to see if I can determine which mounts are bad. If I am thinking right, if the front of the motor raises in drive then the front mount is bad, if the back raises in reverse then the back mount is bad. Is this right or is it oppisite?

James

1999 STS 65k

1995 STS 127k

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The motor is going to raise when you do that .. it's just how far it raises is the question I guess.. I think mine raises at least an inch.. Also, make sure you don't stand in front of the car while she is doing that :))))) Just in case

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....

One code that I have is history AMP-U1064 (loss communication with DIM). What is DIM and does this mean anything? One more thing, does anyone know the key to "back-up" when reading the codes on the 99 STS. I know on/off is yes but can;t figure out how to back-up or exit out of the diagnostic without turning off the key.

Thanks for everyones help as always. :D

ON/OFF = YES

INFO RESET = NO

INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle

Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.

Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.

Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.

Ignition OFF to get out.

SYTEMS:

ABS (Antilock Brake System)

AMP (Amplifier)

DDM (Door Driver Module)

DIM (Dash Integration Module)

IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)

IPM (Instrument Panel Module)

IRC (Integrated Radio Module)

PCM (Powertrain Control Module)

RFA (Remote Function Actuation)

RIM (Rear Integration Module)

SDM (Sensing and Diagnostic Module) Includes airbag crash data. Under RF seat

VTD (Vehicle Theft Deterrent)

MSM (Memory Seat Module)

TTM (Tilt/Telescoping Module)

RSS (Road Sensing Suspension)

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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To get out of the diagnostics in my 93' you just press "AUTO", try it it may work for you.

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

DTS_Signature.jpg

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