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    1999 Seville STS 65k miles

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    Cincinnati, OH

hiljak's Achievements


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  1. changed the starter. I noticed once the old one was out, it makes a noise when you move it like something is loose inside (maybe a brush is loose??). The starter is a royal pain in the *smurf* to change. I had to drop the two rear engine cradle/subframe bolts, take the steering rack mounts loose, and the steering column linkage had to be disconnected just to get the starter out. .6 hours my *smurf*!!
  2. I think it has to be the solenoid. Maybe there is a burn mark on it and the ramdomness of the no start condition is due to the "roulette" factor of the where the solenoid stops (on the burnt spot or not). All the fiddling I did may have been arbitrary and the actual condition went away once the solenoid moved from that bad spot??? Thats my best guess. I'm picking up a new Delco starter tonight locally for $199.00. I'll throw it on and try taking the solenoid apart on the old before I take it in for a core return. thanks,.
  3. Well, GMpartsdirect only shows a listing for a starter, no solenoid. $125.00. You think I should go ahead and replace the starter?
  4. So, I've quit troubleshooting the starting problem for a while as it just quick happening for almost a month. Its done it twice this week and both times it ended up starting after "fiddling" with the relay and wiring harneses in the under hood fuse box. Well, it did again tonight while it was actually in the garage (it usually happens conveniently when I'm out and about). I put a meter on the fat purple wire from the main engine harness that plugs into the fuse box. The fat purple wire gets 12 volts from the starter relay and goes down to the starter solenoid. I have verified that when the condition exists and car is not starting, I do get the 12 volts to the purple wire when the starter button is pushed. This tells the relay is working, starter switch is working, etc.. If power is going to the starter solenoid and the starter is not engaging, does this mean the solenoid is bad? And could it operate fine and fail so intermittently? Can the solenoid be changed without a new starter? Thanks for the support guys.
  5. Logan, I have ran down the above leads and couldn't find any problems described there. The problem just happened again and I couldn't get it start even by jumping across the relay points. So.... I tried putting the car in nuetral and it fired right up. After I got it started, it starts fine in park (the problem has been intermittent from the get-go). Do you think the neutral safety switch could be having an intermittent problem or is this likely a red herring and coincidence? Thanks for your input.
  6. thanks logan, I will try to run all these down and report back.
  7. I've done this job on a 95... it sucked. The bolt that holds the line to the back of the compressor is ALMOST immpossible to get to. I had to use the right combination of extensions and a swivel to get it loose, 1/8 turn at a time. If you had a lift, this wouldn't be as bad. If you don't, good luck, you'll need it.
  8. check the throttle body and blade for build and clean it well. Sometimes a buildup and make the idle control motor max out and skip. If it still does it after you clean the blade and throttle body, change the ICM.
  9. this is a copy of my post from another forum: I've had an ongoing problem with my 05 STS not starting. About a month ago, my car just wouldn't start. The lights and all acceseries would work fine, but when I would hit the start button, nothing, just the orange engine light for 20 seconds, then everything would kick back on. (the car kills everything but the engine light while starting when working normal). I baught a new battery which seemed to fix the issue. The next morning, car won't start again. Swapped the battery again and it worked. Everything seemed fine for a day or two, then the car does it again. I fiddled with the battery connections (unscrewed then screwed them back in) and after a few more presses of the button, the car started and continued to work for a couple weeks. This lead me to believe that maybe the start button was worn and not making the full connection when pressed. I swapped the start button and everything was fine for about a month. Now, same thing happening. I don't think its the battery because the car won't crank with a craftsman jumper charger connected either (and battery reads like 13 volts on the dash). Here's what I've tried: changed the starter switch. swapped the starter relay for another identical relay in the fuse panel. swapped the "crank/start" micro-relay with another identical in the fuse panel unhooked the bolt which connects the ground cable to the strut tower and cleaned. What else can I do here? I'm going to maybe have the battery swapped under warranty tomorrow. Any ideas of how to trouboeshoot this? *MY POST FROM AFTER I GOT THE CAR TO START* Battery was tested and is fine. I checked the starter power wire and was seeing 12.4 volts. The purple wire feeding the starter solenoid was displaying .08 volts with no change when hitting the start button or with the remote start. Decided to remove the starter relay and jump the points manually with a jumper wire; this made the starter turn over immediately. I put the relay back in and the car fired right up. I'm not sure what this is telling me. It would seem the relay was bad but I tried another good relay earlier and the starter still didn't engage (and the relay is working fine now). I'm thinking either 1. the purple wire that feeds the starter solenoid may have an intermittent short or loose connection somewhere between the under-hood fuse panel (from the starter relay) and the starter solenoid 2. there is a short or loose connection somewhere between the start button and the trigger point for the starter relay (but maybe this is controlled with GMLAN command??). What I don't know is why manually jumping the relay would make the symptom disapear? Any ideas?
  10. Thank you all for the replies. Don, I think your method will work and I wish I would have thought of that today. I should have mentioned that the hub is free from the knuckle and just stuck on the actual axle shaft. When I look at the axle shaft, I can see a fair amount of surface rust. After thinking through what you said, almost 100% positive that I can knock it loose with the sledge and ball ping. That actually seems like a safer all around method to use than the puller tool. Thanks alot and I'll post back the sucess story!
  11. Hello everyone, I'm back so you know what that means, I have a problem!! I have a 1999 STS I'm working on for my dad that has two bad wheel bearings in the front. It got bad enough that the rotors kept going out of round due to the play in the wheel. I have done one of these before on a 1995 and it was nothing. This darn thing has me up to about 10 hours already!!. I have everything off, the wheel, the caliper, caliper mount, rotor, etc.. I've removed the large nut from the axle as well as the 3 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle from the back. This sucker WILL NOT come loose from the axle. I have broken two hub puller tools on it. I've used a can of PB Blaster and nothing. WTF?? Anyone seen this before? I'm thinking it overheated or something and has turned the "grime" in between the axle and the hub into a make-shift weld. What can I do? I'm going to spray it down real good again with PB Blaster and let that sit over night. Any other Ideas? I thought about maybe heating the hub carefully with a propane torch but I don't know if that is a bad idea or not. Any help would be great. BTW, I have the alldata document on the swap out so I know there's no hardware I haven't removed. I've followed the steps to the letter. Somebody share some knowledge please. Thanks a ton.
  12. Hi guys, thanks for the replies. The other two P codes listed I didn't think were related. One is P1189 which is a bad oil pressure sensor which I haven't had a chance to change and the other is P1617 (history) glow plug short to ground (not sure about that one). I will check the pipe you mentioned and report back. Are there sensors which could be bad? Checked the pipe, it looks great. It seems to be coated in an "under coating" type of stuff. No visible rust or corrosion. Any other suggestions?
  13. Hello all, I haven't been around in while (that's a good thing right?). Anyway, I have a problem with my STS... it's throwing a P0440 code (EVAP) and also a check gas cap message. I changed the cap with a new one from Caddy, same problem is still there. I can clear the code and the messge and engine light will be off for a day, then their back. Here's another wierd thing, once that code has been set (and is currently showing the light), I can't get gas with the engine running. It will take some gas into the tank, then spit it back out. Yes, you read that right, it spits the darn gas right back out! I think it may be pressurising the fuel system while that code is set. How does one go about troubleshooting this?? Thanks guys.
  14. If it won't come loose and looks corroded, spray some lime away on it and let it sit for about 20 mins. Then take hammer and hit it directly in the center to break the corrosion free. It should come out with a breaker bar easily then.
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