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2001 STS


tonyny

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Had my car in at the body shop for some minor work on the left rear lower panel. This morning I see that the trunk and gas cap lid were open. So I close both and later I notice they're open again! I also hear some clicking sounds by the gas lid as if I was trying to open it via the remote. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm tempted to go back to the body shop and ask them. I also tried locking the trunk with the key but it only UNLOCKS with the key? I did notice the trunk was a mess after they finished and I had them vacuum the trunk and put the net back. Any info appreciated.

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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Had my car in at the body shop for some minor work on the left rear lower panel. This morning I see that the trunk and gas cap lid were open. So I close both and later I notice they're open again! I also hear some clicking sounds by the gas lid as if I was trying to open it via the remote. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm tempted to go back to the body shop and ask them. I also tried locking the trunk with the key but it only UNLOCKS with the key? I did notice the trunk was a mess after they finished and I had them vacuum the trunk and put the net back. Any info appreciated.

Ok went for a short errand. Parked the car and when I came out the gas lid was open but not the trunk. Here are the codes I get. I cleared them before going on the errand.

B2422

U1000 HISTORY

U1064 " "

U1065 " "

U1160 " "

U1016 " "

U 1129 " "

U 1016 " "

When I got home I checked again and no codes showed.

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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don't know what you mean by locking the trunk with a key. I just close it, and it's shut & locked by default.

The trunk/gas doors opening has been discussed here before. seems when there are voltage variations/fluctuations, the car oddly has a tendancy to do this. I have actually seen this myself when I had a bad battery. I understand it can also be caused by poor connections to the battery, or corrosion under your underhood fuse block. You should staty by checking all your connections from the battery to make sure they are clean & tight. I can suspect the body shop had to disconnect your battery to perform the work, and based on what you mentioned about your trunk mess, they didn't do a thorough completion. I don't know what the codes you listed are, but I can say there are alot of them - another symptom of voltage variations causing youe BCM to go "haywire". I'm just happy the car does not react by deploying the airbags :)

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don't know what you mean by locking the trunk with a key. I just close it, and it's shut & locked by default.

The trunk/gas doors opening has been discussed here before. seems when there are voltage variations/fluctuations, the car oddly has a tendancy to do this. I have actually seen this myself when I had a bad battery. I understand it can also be caused by poor connections to the battery, or corrosion under your underhood fuse block. You should staty by checking all your connections from the battery to make sure they are clean & tight. I can suspect the body shop had to disconnect your battery to perform the work, and based on what you mentioned about your trunk mess, they didn't do a thorough completion. I don't know what the codes you listed are, but I can say there are alot of them - another symptom of voltage variations causing youe BCM to go "haywire". I'm just happy the car does not react by deploying the airbags :)

Ok thanks. Since you say its been discussed before I'll wait for someone to hopefully chime in. I called the body shop and they said they didn't touch the battery since it involved the rear bumper. Just odd that this is happening a day after I got the car back from them. But it could be unrelated I guess.

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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don't know what you mean by locking the trunk with a key. I just close it, and it's shut & locked by default.

The trunk/gas doors opening has been discussed here before. seems when there are voltage variations/fluctuations, the car oddly has a tendancy to do this. I have actually seen this myself when I had a bad battery. I understand it can also be caused by poor connections to the battery, or corrosion under your underhood fuse block. You should staty by checking all your connections from the battery to make sure they are clean & tight. I can suspect the body shop had to disconnect your battery to perform the work, and based on what you mentioned about your trunk mess, they didn't do a thorough completion. I don't know what the codes you listed are, but I can say there are alot of them - another symptom of voltage variations causing youe BCM to go "haywire". I'm just happy the car does not react by deploying the airbags :)

Ok thanks. Since you say its been discussed before I'll wait for someone to hopefully chime in. I called the body shop and they said they didn't touch the battery since it involved the rear bumper. Just odd that this is happening a day after I got the car back from them. But it could be unrelated I guess.

could also be since the car sat for a bit while it was being scheduled & being worked on, etc. the battery could have deep cycled, and if the battery is old enough, could have internally shorted out enough to a level where it's giving you issues. check to see how old the battery is, and if older than 4 years, consider this as a cause. Also, I see you are in FL. I know hot climate, and being under the hood of a NS shorten the life of a typical lead/acid battery a little.

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don't know what you mean by locking the trunk with a key. I just close it, and it's shut & locked by default.

The trunk/gas doors opening has been discussed here before. seems when there are voltage variations/fluctuations, the car oddly has a tendancy to do this. I have actually seen this myself when I had a bad battery. I understand it can also be caused by poor connections to the battery, or corrosion under your underhood fuse block. You should staty by checking all your connections from the battery to make sure they are clean & tight. I can suspect the body shop had to disconnect your battery to perform the work, and based on what you mentioned about your trunk mess, they didn't do a thorough completion. I don't know what the codes you listed are, but I can say there are alot of them - another symptom of voltage variations causing youe BCM to go "haywire". I'm just happy the car does not react by deploying the airbags :)

Ok thanks. Since you say its been discussed before I'll wait for someone to hopefully chime in. I called the body shop and they said they didn't touch the battery since it involved the rear bumper. Just odd that this is happening a day after I got the car back from them. But it could be unrelated I guess.

could also be since the car sat for a bit while it was being scheduled & being worked on, etc. the battery could have deep cycled, and if the battery is old enough, could have internally shorted out enough to a level where it's giving you issues. check to see how old the battery is, and if older than 4 years, consider this as a cause. Also, I see you are in FL. I know hot climate, and being under the hood of a NS shorten the life of a typical lead/acid battery a little.

Its a several months old Optima battery and it sits under the rear seat...

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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Unless I missed it, :unsure: you did not say which car is acting up. Is it the 2003 DTS or the 2001 STS ?

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

DTS_Signature.jpg

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Battery age has nothing to do with battery condition. It is possible to purchase a 'new' battery that is failed.

It's easy enough to remove the battery condition question from the situation. Have the battery load-tested at most any aftermarket parts store.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Well I went to the dealer and as usual they're blaming the aftermarket alarm, which is a Viper. The mechanic is suggesting I call my service guy and have him check if the warranty will cover them going through the wiring, etc. So that will be Tuesday when he gets back. Meanwhile he disconnected the trunk and gas cap connections so the wife has to use the car key to unlock the trunk and also to pop the gas lid. :rolleyes:

On another note the service tech recommended a power steering, brake fluid and coolant flush. To the tune of around $100 EACH. I'm not sure if this was ever done to her car or how old the coolant is. Any suggestions?

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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Well I went to the dealer and as usual they're blaming the aftermarket alarm, which is a Viper. The mechanic is suggesting I call my service guy and have him check if the warranty will cover them going through the wiring, etc. So that will be Tuesday when he gets back. Meanwhile he disconnected the trunk and gas cap connections so the wife has to use the car key to unlock the trunk and also to pop the gas lid. :rolleyes:

On another note the service tech recommended a power steering, brake fluid and coolant flush. To the tune of around $100 EACH. I'm not sure if this was ever done to her car or how old the coolant is. Any suggestions?

if you are unsure of the age of your coolant, drain & refill must be done immediately. Our famous saying on this board is "the only thing that should be flushed is a toilet" if you are handy, all can be done yourself.

PS -a few of us have replaced the PS fluid with a turkey baster. suck as much out, then fill it up again.

BRAKE - stir up the Brake fluid resouvour and suck the old dirty fluid out & replace with a freshly opened bottle of fluid.

replace both after a few days of driving.

OR of course you can bleed the braked from each caliper in this order RR,LR,RF,LF after stirring it up & cleaning out the resouvour.

again, it is believed that coolant past 4 years old puts you at risk of headgasket failure - so I would get this done immediately, and make sure 2 tubes of Bars stop leak powder are added to the radi

ator.

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Had my car in at the body shop for some minor work on the left rear lower panel. This morning I see that the trunk and gas cap lid were open. So I close both and later I notice they're open again! I also hear some clicking sounds by the gas lid as if I was trying to open it via the remote. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm tempted to go back to the body shop and ask them. I also tried locking the trunk with the key but it only UNLOCKS with the key? I did notice the trunk was a mess after they finished and I had them vacuum the trunk and put the net back. Any info appreciated.

You really should stop pushing the buttons with your knee..sorry couldn't resist!

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Battery age has nothing to do with battery condition. It is possible to purchase a 'new' battery that is failed.

It's easy enough to remove the battery condition question from the situation. Have the battery load-tested at most any aftermarket parts store.

Update: Had the car towed to the dealer under warranty since the Optima battery was DOA today. They replaced it, at my request, with a Delco battery. No more trunk and gas lid popping open! Tomorrow I'm going back to Autozone with their battery and demanding a refund. Purchased the Optima battery THREE MONTHS AGO. And it cost about 20 bucks less than the Optima. Live and learn...

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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You still could have a electrical drain somewere. The new battery may get the same issues once it starts running low. It'll be great if this issue is behind you however. Once this passes the time test, you really should consider changing your coolant. Prevention is the best cure.

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You still could have a electrical drain somewere. The new battery may get the same issues once it starts running low. It'll be great if this issue is behind you however. Once this passes the time test, you really should consider changing your coolant. Prevention is the best cure.

I had them flush the coolant along with changing the battery. Props to AutoZone who refunded my money no questions asked. So far no more mysterious trunk and gas lid openings so we'll see. So the Viper alarm, as I suspected, had NOTHING to do with any of this.

On another note I guess Cadillac, along with everyone else, is going on the CHEAP these days. When my '03 DTS battery died a few years back Roadside Assistance sent a white GM van to my home and the tech replaced the dead battery with a new Delco. This time around they sent Goober from a local gas station who not only didn't have any batteries he didn't know how to release the parking brake since the battery was dead and it wouldn't release automatically when shifted out of park. I found the procedure in the owners manual and showed it to him. Thankfully he came with a flat bed truck for the trip to the dealer.

"Capital punishment means never having to say, "You again"?
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On another note I guess Cadillac, along with everyone else, is going on the CHEAP these days. When my '03 DTS battery died a few years back Roadside Assistance sent a white GM van to my home and the tech replaced the dead battery with a new Delco. This time around they sent Goober from a local gas station who not only didn't have any batteries he didn't know how to release the parking brake since the battery was dead and it wouldn't release automatically when shifted out of park. I found the procedure in the owners manual and showed it to him. Thankfully he came with a flat bed truck for the trip to the dealer.

About a year ago, the battery died on my DTS.

I called Onstar on my cell phone.

It was early and the dealer had not OFFICIALLY opened for the day yet, but OnStar got in touch with SOMEBODY and they called me back in about 5 minutes.

15 minutes after THAT...a tech was in my driveway, driving a WELL STOCKED GM van.

He changed the battery on the spot and was very nice, polite and seemed pretty knowledgeable.

I was very happy with the service.

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