control arm bushings

[KenD]

What I thought was a rear hub bearing issue has turned into a control arm bushing. There is at least 1/8 to 1/4" play in the upper control arm. Hence the rattling when going over bumps and the wandering of the car on the highway.

On a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to disassemble myself and get a garage to press out the old with new bushings? I would get the aftermarket bushings.

I have done R&R on brakes, water pump (twice), and alternator to give you and idea of mechanical experience. Car is getting older and the more miles I put on the more nickel and diming it does to me so the more I do myself the longer I can keep the car. Wife wants me to get rid of it, but I want to keep if for my daughter when she gets old enough to drive. (14 years from now, lol).

Ken

[BodybyFisher]

What I thought was a rear hub bearing issue has turned into a control arm bushing. There is at least 1/8 to 1/4" play in the upper control arm. Hence the rattling when going over bumps and the wandering of the car on the highway.

On a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to disassemble myself and get a garage to press out the old with new bushings? I would get the aftermarket bushings.

I have done R&R on brakes, water pump (twice), and alternator to give you and idea of mechanical experience. Car is getting older and the more miles I put on the more nickel and diming it does to me so the more I do myself the longer I can keep the car. Wife wants me to get rid of it, but I want to keep if for my daughter when she gets old enough to drive. (14 years from now, lol).

Ken

Ken, I think you might be talking about the rear knuckle bushings, are you talking about the inboard bushings or the outboard bushing that is part of the rear knuckle? When i get a chance I will seek out my rear knuckle thread, Mike

[KenD]

sorry Mike, yes, it is the rear knuckle bushing on the passenger side. It's the upper bushing on the knuckle closest to the top of the rotor that's shot.

[BodybyFisher]

Ken you know we have an extensive thread on that?

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=12526

[KenD]

yes, I saw that, thank you. My initial inquiry is to find out the difficulty on the R&R of this part. I would like to do it myself if possible, but my time is very thin nowadays and I can only really get working on stuff like this if it's 9-10pm at night and by that time, i'm bushed! lol

[BodybyFisher]

yes, I saw that, thank you. My initial inquiry is to find out the difficulty on the R&R of this part. I would like to do it myself if possible, but my time is very thin nowadays and I can only really get working on stuff like this if it's 9-10pm at night and by that time, i'm bushed! lol

Not hard but not easy either, not something I would want to do at 9 PM... That thread above has photos, Mike

[KenD]

thanks for your help as always Mike!

Ken

[KHE]

I recently did this repair on my '97 STS. It was fairly straightforward. I used a vise and pipe nipples to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. My recommendation would be to do both sides. I only did the driver's side becaue I was hoping Moog would have OEM style replacements but it looks like they won't be available until late this year.

[BodybyFisher]

I recently did this repair on my '97 STS. It was fairly straightforward. I used a vise and pipe nipples to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. My recommendation would be to do both sides. I only did the driver's side becaue I was hoping Moog would have OEM style replacements but it looks like they won't be available until late this year.

Kevin what repair parts did you use and did the ride improve?