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Booster / Master Cyl questions...


BostonETC97

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Hello!

It's been quite a while since I've posted here, but I'm still rolling the 97 ETC, now with close to 115k on the clock! Still running flawlessly on only basic maintenance, other than a radiator which was replaced due to a leaking side-tank a few weeks ago. Six years later, and I still have NO desire to replace this car... I'd be happy to drive it for another 100k miles! Very unlike me, but I guess when you find something that works, you keep it!

I have a question regarding the brake booster and master cylinder assembly. As I was cleaning and checking out the engine bay, I noticed a thin line of fluid dripping down the body of the brake booster, originating from the center, where the booster and master cylinder join together. I'd naturally assume this is NOT a good thing! Fluid level appears normal in the reservoir, and the brakes feel fine. I also noted some corrosion at the very bottom of the booster, which probably doesn't indicate things are going well inside of it...

Considering I haven't put anything other than rotors and pads into the braking system, I won't be heartbroken if this requires replacement. Is this an issue anyone here has run into before? I don't like to take chances with tires/suspension/steering/brake systems, as they tend to be critical for safety.

Hope everybody is doing well! Below is a link to a couple pictures I took after detailing. I polished it with Optimum compound on a random-orbital, applied poli-seal, and sprayed with Zaino Z8. It came out nice! :D

-Scott

http://s531.photobucket.com/albums/dd356/BostonETC97/

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I found the Optimum compound and Zaino Z8, what is poly-seal? The finish is beautiful. Are you experienced as a detailer? Could I use an orbital buffer without damaging my finish? Thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'd call myself a hobby detailer! I don't really detail for profit, but I have a few clients from my college days that I still service. Unfortunately, any money I make usually just goes right back into my hobby, in the forms of polishes, tools, and supplies. At least it's a self-supporting hobby! (Unlike most my other habits!)

Random orbital polishers are very safe to use on your car. They don't generate as much heat as rotary buffers, and really require quite a bit of misuse before they'll burn through paint. The Porter-Cable 7424 with 4" pads are what I use. I applied the Optimum Compound with an orange (light cutting) pad, and the poli-seal with a white polishing pad. The PC polisher will provide light correction, but under close examination, there are still plenty of deeper scratches in my car. Rotary buffers cut through the swirls/scratches/marring MUCH faster, but they also require much more experience to use. Since I'm not aiming for 100% correction, I'm very content with the safety and effectiveness of my random orbital.

As far as polishes/sealants/waxes go, I find every car and paint combo responds best to a specific product. I have no favorites, but have found Optimum, ClearKote, Zaino, Meguires, and Mother's products all to be effective and easy to use. There's no "best" product... it's all in the time, effort, and prep that you put into the car. I like Optimum products due to their long working times with the buffer, and their ease of use. I've also used Zaino for years, and find it holds up GREAT in the tough Boston winters. If you're looking for an excellent one-step product, try the Zaino All-in-One. It cleans, polishes, and seals the paint, and is very easy to use. Top that with a spray-on coat of Z8, and you'll have a show-room shine in less than half a day. Be sure to clay-bar the car first, to remove all the contamination first!

And to answer your question… poli-seal is the one-step product from Optimum to polish and seal! It works great, darkens the finish, and is very easy to apply and remove! Highly recommended!

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I should also add this: http://www.autopia.org/

It's a wonderful detailing forum with some very experienced professionals! I've learned more detailing tricks from that forum than I can count!

One of my favorite tricks on the Cadillacs... apply Zaino All-in-One to the wood on the dashboard! It makes it shine and pop unlike anything I've EVER seen, and removes the hazing in the finish!

Another good "trick" is to use the Z-AIO on the rims! It makes cleaning them a breeze, and prevents dust/crud from sticking to them. I even apply the Zaino to the windows... it makes them glossy, and keeps the rain from etching the glass.

And be careful how you wash the car... use ONLY microfiber or other VERY soft media! And dry ONLY with microfiber! Course towels induce more damage than you'd think. And NEVER use the foaming-brush at the hi-press wash on your car... I don't care how much you try to clean it, the dump-truck that was there before you used the brush on the tar and rocks his bed, and will never be clean enough to use on your car!

I'll add some more pointers as they come to me! :lol:

...one more! www.autogeek.net! One of many excellent sources for all your detailing needs!!!

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Thanks a lot, I have been wanting to try Zaino for a long time, the Z8 looks interesting.. thanks again

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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In response to your question in post #1, it sounds like the piston seal in the master cylinder is starting to leak. Eventually when you step on the brake, you'll notice the pedal getting lower and then your foot will very slowly sink to the floor. By then it's a must fix.

Regarding buffers, I just a few years ago switched to a rotary. I run it at 1200 - 1500 RPM with a light touch and keep it moving. I apply the Meguiars NXT with a wool pad and then wipe it off with a towel. I should start using a micro fiber towel (especially since I have them). I'll say one thing, the rotary twice a year does keep the headlight lenses clear. Any comments, tips or advice?

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Sounds like a new master cyl is in order!. And guessing by the leak into the booster, I'd assume the rubber internals are in poor shape, so that'll be swapped out too. I'll probably replace them before the winter, as there's no reason to wait on this project.

As far as the MegsNXT goes... I've never used it, but my friends who do seem to really like the results. I always enjoyed all of the Meg's line, and have been meaning to try the NXT. Applying it with a rotary works, but I would use a soft foam pad (Lake country white pad, or green pad, would work great!). Wool pads are VERY aggressive, and cut through clear-coat quickly. They work incredibly well for applying compounds and polishes, but I'd go with a soft foam pad for applying last-step sealants (NXT) or waxes.

Also keep in mind that there IS such thing as over-polishing! If you watch the serious pro-detailers at work, they use a paint thickness gauge to make sure they're not cutting too deep... there's only so much clearcoat before you'll hit the basecoat! GM cars tend to have a very "hard" clearcoat, meaning they're tough to polish, but also harder to scratch and marr. Clearcoat hardness is also a subject of great debate, but overall I think I'm happy with a 'hard' one, as I don't have to worry about swirls and marring every time I touch the car. (But it sure makes polishing out the existing defects more challenging, as you must use polishes and pads with more 'bite'.)

As far as headlamps go.... the rotary with some good medium-cut polish should keep them clean and clear! After polishing, apply the NXT to the headlamp lenses, as it'll help keep them clear a bit longer.

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