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BostonETC97 last won the day on November 6

BostonETC97 had the most liked content!

About BostonETC97

  • Rank
    Regular (100+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2001 Cadillac Eldorado ETC
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Boston, MA
  1. Final update! The dealer turned out to be the best decision I made. The service manager and a couple of his techs were incredibly happy to see this car, and were around 'back in the day' when these were a bit more common. I told them about the shorted left cooling fan motor, and after a couple hours of cleaning contacts, determining that the harnesses were OK, they discovered that the fan itself had a severe internal short, and whenever the PCM would call on the fan to activate, it would short out and throw voltage around, causing my havoc. Now makes sense why the car would cold-start perfectl
  2. Sort of a sad update. The car wouldn't restart after a short drive to do some errands today. Opened the hood, found the left radiator fan motor has somehow come in contact with the flexible exhaust tubing for the AIR system (I think that's what's up front there...), and was causing some major arcing, snapping, sparking, and overall just shorting out to the point the exhaust tube was charred and blackened where it was in contact with the fan. Once they were no long shorting, the car wouldn't start, and just kept flashing all the dash warnings, "theft system problem" etc. Finally got it towed af
  3. No luck with either of the grounds in the car, under the dash. Both were clean and tight. Took them off to clean and re-tighten, just to be sure. I'm now leaning towards the possibility of a faulty PZM. The only other observations I've made is that the car will cold start perfectly, but the moment it revs beyond 2-3k, the theft warnings start popping up, and the fuel/temp drops out, along with the radio/HVAC. If you put the car in reverse, everything pops back to life. Other observation is that the the LEDS on the shifter go dead, and the foglights/highbeams are inoperable when things are 'won
  4. With a bit of google-sleuthing based on my codes, I did find the post below from another Cadi forum. I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see how my under-dash ground wire looks. Assuming it's going to be similar on my Eldo to a '98 Deville. Almost identical symptoms too! 1998 Deville VIN Y - VATS bypassed some time ago, Replaced alternator due to the "low voltage message" and codes. Around about the same time this started: When the left turn signal is used or turning on the twilight sentinel the dash will go blank. When you turn off eithe
  5. Bizarre update! I pulled the wide connector at the electrical center, and surprisingly, it was very clean. Shiny contacts, pins all in like-new condition, no signs of decay on the connector or wires. Haven't driven the car in a week or so now, so took it for a 30 minute drive. Halfway into it, flashing "PRNDL", "theft system problem", and the airbag and traction control lights were back on. A few moments later, HVAC is blowing full hot on defrost, and the radio/HVAC displays go dark. Tested the alternator output, still getting 13.6 or so volts, rises to 14ish with a rev. Engine still runs fine
  6. Thank you both for the FSM photos of the drain lines, and the picture of the connector! I'll take a look this afternoon and see what I can find. What's the best way to clean up the connectors and relays? I don't want to be too aggressive and start destroying pins. Electrical contact cleaner and a soft brush ok? Thanks again!!
  7. After letting the car sit in the cool/dry garage for a a day, no error messages, and everything is happy once again. I took the cover off the electrical center by the front left strut tower, and tried to make ends of it. Everything had a layer of grit on it, but no obvious signs of corrosion or water damage. Pulled some fuses, the blades are a little oxidized, but no rust or green buildup anywhere to be seen. I'm tempted to start pulling all the connectors off the pcm, and all the modules I can access, give them a cleaning, and re-connect them. Another part of me fears I'll break a pin/module/
  8. Hello, Hope everybody is doing well in these times! I've got a tricky electrical situation that I just can't get to the bottom of, and I've seen lots of unresolved threads with the same issue. I've noticed that after a car-wash, or long drive in moderate to heavy rain, I'll experience what seems to be the instrument cluster powering off, followed by the flashing orange 'PRNDL' indicators in between the speedo and tach, and multiple display warnings of "Theft System Problem", "Service Airbags", and the Traction Control / Airbag warning lights turning on. The climate control will sometimes blank
  9. That's sort of my fear, that I'll be replacing the struts. The car only has 40k miles, but the boots on the rears do appear sort of "crusty". The pump sounds fine, and it doesn't run continuously. The thing that leads me to believe that there's an air leak is that if you start the car, and shut it off within a minute or so of the pump doing it's "startup cycle," you can hear the hiss of air when the level control opens the exhaust solenoid to vent the system. If you drive the car, you can still hear the "click" of the exhaust solenoid opening, but there's no sound of air escaping. Leads me to
  10. Hello! Hope everybody had a great 4th! I'm curious if anybody can suggest a decent technician for my Eldorado. I have a great guy for my foreign cars, and while he can do the basic work on my Eldorado, he doesn't really have the capacity (or interest! ) to do more involved jobs. I'm currently trying to find somebody with a Tech-2 that can do a CASE-relearn, maybe a PCM re-flash, and attempt to adjust the rear ride-height. The rear leveling pump seems to be running fine, and does respond to sitting on the rear bumper, but never really raises the car to the ride-height I remember my 1997 havin
  11. I did a careful cleaning of the TB and IAC valve. Also disconnected the battery to reset the PCM. There were no codes before or after the cleaning. The surge/jerking only happens when the engine is completely cold, and only after giving the gas pedal a quick tap. Once the car is even slightly warmed up, it goes back to idle perfectly. I'm leaning towards a faulty IAC, but I don't want to start throwing parts just yet.
  12. Hello! It's been a while since I've posted, but no worries, I still read the forum at least a few times a day! I previously had a black 1997 ETC, but recently traded for a 2001 ETC in red. Only 38k miles, and in gorgeous condition! I'll make another post once I get the photos online! Here's my question: When I start the car cold in the morning, she starts and idles just fine. Initially the cold idle is at 1200, but settles down to about 850-900rpm or so within a minute or so. The problem is when I put the car in gear, and gently tap the accelerator. The car will start to surge (a cyclical je
  13. So far so good! No signs of the mis-fire in the past couple days, and still driving very nicely. The only thing I have left to fix is the exhaust system. Any time I get on the throttle hard from a stop, there's a violet "hammering" of the exhaust against the bottom of the car. I actually think it's from the section of pipe in front of the cat, hitting against the cross-brace that's right under the floor-pan of the cabin. I've lived with this issue for a year, so clearly it's not pressing. But it's starting to get old!
  14. A couple weeks ago I posted on here about my warm-start misfire. I thought I resolved it with a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, but it still wasn't right. Tonight I finally gave in, bought a bottle of throttle-body cleaner and MAF cleaner, and rolled up my sleeves! I can't even begin to describe the donkey-show on the back-side of my throttle plate! I took a close look before going nuts with the spray cleaner, and I can only describe it as a vile black tar, that had a moist outer layer, and a rock-hard lower-layer that stuck to every surface on the throttle blade, body, and inner-intake. It to
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