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'94 Eldo 032 & 095


Ion

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It's deja vu...

I had similar issues last year. Problem begins with the 032 Open MAP message, which leads to the 095 Engine Stall message. How should I approach troubleshooting? What events trip an 032? I replaced the MAP sensor last year, along with lotsa other stuff.

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P032 could be caused by a short to ground or a malfunctioning Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

However, before checking PCM, etc., check air filter and replace if dirty. Then see if problem is solved.

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I had an intermittent MAP code once, and I cleaned the connector to the MAP sensor and put it back on, and never had that code again. That was bout three years ago.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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P032 could be caused by a short to ground or a malfunctioning Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

However, before checking PCM, etc., check air filter and replace if dirty. Then see if problem is solved.

Air filter is less than a year old. Re: short to ground...I'm on my 3rd PCM already, so this suggestion seems like a distinct possibility. How would you suggest I begin troubleshooting the bad ground? Where is it likely to occur? And...might this issue relate to why I'm on my 3rd PCM? Could this occur at the wire harness connected to the PCM?

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I had an intermittent MAP code once, and I cleaned the connector to the MAP sensor and put it back on, and never had that code again. That was bout three years ago.

I installed a new one less than a year ago and until recently, there haven't been any issues, but..I'll remove the cover and give it a try.

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PCMs rarely go out by themselves. The only thing that commonly changes that is someone putting a fast charger on the battery without taking it out of the car or at least disconnecting it, which can blow out all of the electronics that is "always on" in a standby state -- a horrifying thought for any late-model car. In a close second place, jump-starting the car with the polarity reversed is a definite no-no, as is jump-starting from a Diesel truck or farm lighting 24 Volt system.

If you've been changing your PCM because of persistent OBD codes, that's like changing obstetricians to get read of your childrens' head lice. There are retrograde technophobe mechanics out there who will attack what they don't understand instead of the obvious cause of a problem, and we hear about it here all too often. These are the same mechanics that use fast chargers and overvoltage jumpers, too, because it was a good idea when their 1948 Ford truck got a little balky on cold, damp mornings.

Here's what I have on OBD I codes 032 and 095:

I032 Loss of ABS/TCS Data

T032 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Frequency Error

R032 Grounded 36VLR to Deployment Loop

P032 (E032) Open MAP Sensor Signal

P095 (E095) Engine Stall Detected

An open MAP sensor signal probably means that the connector on the MAP sensor isn't tight, or there is some other minor wiring problem. It can also be at the PCM connector, as you asked about. The FSM says to look at the connections in the cavities of the connector and make sure that they are clean, aren't bent out of shape or wide open, and aren't pushed back out of the cavity.

A MAP sensor problem won't cause the car to stall. The car goes into a default mode, like an old non-computer fuel injection, and the transmission -- which uses the MAP signal like an old transmission uses a vacuum modulator -- will start shifting hard like an old transmission with a bad vacuum modulator. The Service Engine Soon light will come on, because it's also an emissions issue when the MAP sensor isn't online.

If the engine is stalling and you don't have other codes, it may be a fuel quality (not driven much with the same gas in the tank for a long time, water in the gas, etc.) or tuning (dirty injectors, arcing from the spark plug wires, etc.).

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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UPDATE: I inspected the plug into the MAP sensor, cleaned it, as well as the location the plug was wired into. There was exposed wire on the post, where two leads were soldered and evidence of frayed, disintegrated insulation. So...I cleaned the exposed wires & connector and gooped on hot glue in an effort to seal them up. I put on about 10 highway miles and a handful of local streets and no stalls. But...still acting a bit sketchy. More to come? Hope not!

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UPDATE: I inspected the plug into the MAP sensor, cleaned it, as well as the location the plug was wired into. There was exposed wire on the post, where two leads were soldered and evidence of frayed, disintegrated insulation. So...I cleaned the exposed wires & connector and gooped on hot glue in an effort to seal them up. I put on about 10 highway miles and a handful of local streets and no stalls. But...still acting a bit sketchy. More to come? Hope not!

Was the wire frayed? If so, I would guess you have an wire that isnt always making a connection. Did you do anything more than clean the exposed, frayed wire? You might be able to do a little soldering to make sure there is always a connection there. Also, I would have used electrical tape, shrink wrap, or "liquid electrical tape" to fix the bad insulation since thats not really hot glue's specialty.

I would go back and check that connection.

Jonah

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UPDATE: I inspected the plug into the MAP sensor, cleaned it, as well as the location the plug was wired into. There was exposed wire on the post, where two leads were soldered and evidence of frayed, disintegrated insulation. So...I cleaned the exposed wires & connector and gooped on hot glue in an effort to seal them up. I put on about 10 highway miles and a handful of local streets and no stalls. But...still acting a bit sketchy. More to come? Hope not!

Was the wire frayed? If so, I would guess you have an wire that isnt always making a connection. Did you do anything more than clean the exposed, frayed wire? You might be able to do a little soldering to make sure there is always a connection there. Also, I would have used electrical tape, shrink wrap, or "liquid electrical tape" to fix the bad insulation since thats not really hot glue's specialty.

I would go back and check that connection.

The wire wasn't frayed, the remnants of the insulation were.

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