EJPut Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 After inspecting injectors, replacing fuel rail and manifold cover, car doesn't start (as of last night). Got home from work, tried again and instead of trying to start it makes this God-awful screaching sound from the engine!!! I am guessing it is the fuel pump, when I turn the key to energize it the sound of the fuel pump does not stay strong, it kind of dies out? I am trying to find the shraeder valve on the fuel rail but can't find it. Any thoughts on what the screaching sound is?? Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJPut Posted April 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Also, how hard is it to change the fuel pump. I am pretty mechanically inclined and do most of the work to my car myself (stab links, replaced a/c condeser and changed to r134, brakes, EGR passage cleaning, etc...) I don't have access to a lift, only a jack and some stands. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Any thoughts on what the screaching sound is?? could you drop something into the engine? The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJPut Posted April 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Well, I have a feeling it is not the pump. I noticed a puddle of gas under the engine, so I though I would remove the intake manifold cover one more time. This is really nice......there is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of gas in the manifold area!!! Apparently I did not replace the fuel rail properly and the gas is not getting to the injectors. I will check the inlet tube. How do I get the gas out of the manifold without me blowing up!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaddyDaddy Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Not sure about the screaching, but I would check the fuel pressure before replacing the fuel pump. There should be a vavle on the fuel rail itself. It looks like a valve that is used on your tire. At least that is with the older Caddies. On the newer ones there are bigger. Not for sure about the new caddies but I know that newer GM vehicles have a larger valve on the fuel rail. I used a pressure gauge and then i had a hose from an old A/C Recharging system and it screwed on and fit perfect on those bigger style valves then cut the hose and clamped it to the gauge. It did wonders for me. Found out that my fuel pump was bad. I imagine in your case it would be easier to buy one. When you get a fuel pressure gauge hook it up and start the car. The GM Tuned Barrel Injection should have 9-13 psi the GM Multi Port Fuel Injection should have 40-47 psi and the GM Simutanious Fuel Injection should be 60-66 psi. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Well, I have a feeling it is not the pump. I noticed a puddle of gas under the engine, so I though I would remove the intake manifold cover one more time. This is really nice......there is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of gas in the manifold area!!! Apparently I did not replace the fuel rail properly and the gas is not getting to the injectors. I will check the inlet tube. How do I get the gas out of the manifold without me blowing up!!!!!! Use your wifes turkey baster to get that gas out of the valley or if she won't let you use it sop it up with an old rag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJPut Posted April 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Would gas in the intake area be the cause for it not starting?? So, if I removed all the gas, put the fuel rail back, would it have a better chance at starting. I did notice that when I first lifted up the fuel rail that the inlet where the fuel comes into the rail it was spewing out fuel. I assume that when I put the fuel rail back down that the inlet fitting is held together bu the bolts that hold the cover down and it does not have to snap into anything? When I lift up the fuel rail should I unclip all the injectors and the fitting from the inlet? One more question, can the FPR only leak from the top or could I have jarred it enough so it was leaking from the bottom? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 I'm not sure about the rest of your questions but if there is that much fuel in the valley it sure would indicate a starting problem. The injectors are not getting the pressure they need. It is being bled off prior to the injectors. Kinda like punching a hole in a garden hose then wondering why there is no pressure at the nozzle. I would think that would have a big influence on starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pulque Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 I would double check all the O rings to make sure they are present and that they are not brittle. This can cause the leaks you describe, as I had the same problem. In my case the O ring was deterioating and the final straw was when I removed the fuel rail, and it just fell apart. I had to purchase a new fuel rail to get these O rings! Good luck,and be sure to remove that fuel, as it can cause engine lock. I used a pump from Pep Boys. It was basically a hose with a pump on the end and it did wonders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pulque Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 I meant the Orings at the inlet and outlet of the fuel rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike98c Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 I know from adding an auxillary fuel pump to an old Maverick a friend and I were using as a bracket ride that if a line cracks in our case or isn't tight you can get a awful high pitched noise as the fuel is forced out. we felt lucky not to have ignited a nice fuell/air bomb under the hood before we figured out what was happening. Hopefully thats your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Raven Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Howyadoin, Replacing the fuel pump is a bit of a pain... It's inside the gas tank, so you've got to drain the tank, remove some exhaust shield bits, tank straps and a couple other things, then drop the tank. The pump is mounted to the top of the tank, so the whole tank should some out. There's a chamfered plastic screw-top kinda thing that holds the pump in place, and getting it lined up so the gasket seals properly all around its base is a stone *smurf*. Other than all that, it's not so bad. Can be a messy job, too. Would I want to do it without a lift? Ehhh, not so much, especially not on the street. Some bozo flips a cigarette butt out the window and you're in a world of trouble... -Rav -Mark P. Salem, MA "Refined Sugar" - '96 SLS, 175K "...the Caddy is dedicated to relentlessly -- and comfortably -- converting time into distance." -J.J. Gertler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Raven Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 P.S. Fuel pressure spec: Ignition ON and Engine OFF 333-376 kPa (48-55 psi) With engine idling and 12-14 in. of vacuum applied to the pressure regulator, pressure should drop 3-10 PSI. Fuel pressure above 60 PSI can damage the fuel pressure regulator. -Mark P. Salem, MA "Refined Sugar" - '96 SLS, 175K "...the Caddy is dedicated to relentlessly -- and comfortably -- converting time into distance." -J.J. Gertler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trmnatr Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Have you checked to make sure the cylinders are not full of fuel and hydrolocking the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike98c Posted April 30, 2004 Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Question. Can all the wire looms just be disconnected to the coil pack instead of grounding out the spark plugs as I have done previously, for fear of damaging a computer when doing some extended cranking and not wishing the car to start? In that instance it was a Bonneville but my question is for the Northstar as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJPut Posted April 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 i removed about 1 gal of gas!!!! i will hook everything back up, energize the pump and see if i can find the leak. i pulled a couple of plugs and they were dry.....there may be like a teaspoon left that i cant get out, i hope this okay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJPut Posted April 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2004 Okay, here is my dilema. The fuel rail, injectors and inlet valve are attached by clips to the plastic gasket going around the manifold. The inlet valve mates to a male part from underneath the manifold. when I was first checking for leaks, i did notice this connection leaking when I lifted up the fuel rail after checking the FPR. I am thinking this is where the leak is, but I can't really check because you cant' see that connection? Also, that corner, where the inlet is clipped in, does not sit exactly flush to the manifold. My question is do that inlet fitting clip in or is it an oring set up and as long as their is downward pressure it is sealed? Oh yeah, there is still a little gas below each of the air tube ports, but not a lot, I am assuming, if it does start, this will be spent in the chamber. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Concours Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 You better be careful! You're going to have an explosion. Jeff Jeff 98 Concours 90 Seville 04 Corvette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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