Orbital power polisher?

[gc_caddy]

Weather is getting better... I'm thinking about getting a random orbital polisher to shine up the car.

Any suggestions or comments? I see that there are several sizes and configurations available. Some cordless ones, different buffer sizes from 4" to about 11". Speed also ranges from around 2600 to 4800 opm.

I'm thinking that maybe a 8" one is the best size for ease of use and coverage.

Is the Obital polisher best used to only polish out scratches and swirls, which is then followed by hand application and hand removal of wax? Thanks.

[Bentham]

I have an 8 inch one.. I like it except the cord ALWAYS gets in the way, leaves marks on the car, and comes unplugged a lot.. My advice would be to get a cordless.. Good luck

[it's 50 degrees here!]

-Eric

[Marika]

I recommend Wen Products

http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers.asp

Specifically,

http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers_10PM.asp?m=p

or

http://wenproducts.com/buffers_polishers_10PMB-A.asp?m=p

Been using their random orbital polishers for YEARS and they do the best job for the money and you NEVER get swirl marks.

[98Concours]

I've always wanted one, but don't know if I trust my ability to use it without causing swirl marks. How do you use it without getting those ugly swirl marks?

Jeff

[Marika]

I've always wanted one, but don't know if I trust my ability to use it without causing swirl marks. How do you use it without getting those ugly swirl marks?

Jeff

With Random orbital polishers, the head not only spins around, it moves in random directions of left, right, top, bottom and all over. Most swirl marks are actually BURNS in the paint or the beginning of a burn. Random orbital spins slower and because of it's random activity it doesn't spend enough time in one general spot to create a hot spot and a burn.

The trick to proper polishing is to allow the weight of the polisher to rest on the car surface WITHOUT bearing down on it. Don't DRILL into the surface with the polisher, it won't make the car shine any more than if you just let the polisher glide across the surface. Just allow the weight of the polisher to bear down onto the surface on it's own. Let the polisher do the work.

[rek]

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCar....htm?E+coastest Try this site.

[gc_caddy]

So do you use the orbital buffer to also apply and remove the wax (final step)? Or do you just use it to polish the car before waxing?

Also, do you find that the 10" buffer size a bit large and heavy to do the tops of the bumper, sides, mirror, etc.? I like the idea of cordless, but the buffer size is usually only 4" and I think that might be too tiny and tiresome to use on large expanses like the hood.

Thanks!

[rek]

http://www.roadfly.org/magazine/7/porter_cable_buffer.1.html More info...

[gc_caddy]

Thanks for the links. The Porter-Cable polisher sure looks great!

[Marika]

So do you use the orbital buffer to also apply and remove the wax (final step)? Or do you just use it to polish the car before waxing?

Also, do you find that the 10" buffer size a bit large and heavy to do the tops of the bumper, sides, mirror, etc.? I like the idea of cordless, but the buffer size is usually only 4" and I think that might be too tiny and tiresome to use on large expanses like the hood.

Thanks!

Use the orbital polisher for all purposes on the car. From applying a cleaner to applying wax, to removing the wax and doing a final buff. I use the orbital polisher for all parts of the car, even the outer casing of the mirrors can be polished, you just have to develop your dexterity in how you handle the polisher.

The orbital polisher is the BASE of your car care system. You alter the type of pad that you attach to the polisher depending on the job or what step of the job you are up to.

Terry cloth pads with a waterproof backing are used for applying cleaners and wax, plush terry cloth pads are used for removing the cleaner and buffing the wax.

Wool is a special material and should be used with caution. Wool is considered a powerful cutting material and should only be used if you are attempting to remove scratches from the surface of the paint or clear coat. Wool blends are safer to use because they have less cutting power. Any pad with Wool in it should be used carefully.

NEVER use cotton T-shirts or cotton diapers to wipe down or wash your car. 100% cotton is considered a cutting material, equal to about a 6000 to 8000 grit sandpaper!! Don't use them.

Always machine wash in HOT water using Woolite your terry cloth pads before you use them for the first time. Double rinse in the machine and DO NOT use fabric softener as it will cause streaking and smearing on the finish. If you have hard water where you live, add salt to the water in the final rinse to help naturally soften the water.

And here's something interesting taken from the Zymol website:

Q: What are water spots or acid rain and how can I recognise the damage?

A: Water spots are the result of either hard water deposits or moisture reactive contaminants that have an acidic base. Water spots are actually etch marks in the paint or glass that have relieved the surface of some of its material. If you see these marks only on the trunk and roof of your car then your car's pre-cats, just before your catalytic converter, are either clogged or inoperable. Or, your converter is bad. Refer to our technical cleaning section for more help on removing the spots with HD-Cleanse™ or Cleaner Wax™. Then, if necessary, have your converter checked.

[Dloch]

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCar....htm?E+coastest Try this site.

That is the same one I bought. I have to tell you it works great...... I use the foam pads that I got from Grotts garage.

I used it on my black GMC Jimmy and it left no wheel marks what so ever.

The caddy needed to wheeled in some spots before I used the porter cable. There were no wheel marks after I was done. I used Zmol (SP) on it.

[Ranger]

I bought one of those blue plastic ones with the handle around the outside of it (can't recall the name) a couple of years ago. It kinda looks like a flying saucer. I'd never wax a car again without one. I can now do the job in about :30-:45 min. Whatever you buy, slower is better. You can burn the paint with too fast of a speed if you are not carefull.

[Bill K]

If you are going to do it then there is a lot to learn to do it right.

Do a search for porter cable at: http://www.autopia.org/

There is as much info as you can absorb about making your car look best.

I got a PC buffer last year (used on Ebay), pads from http://www.properautocare.com

and my veh.s have never looked better.

There is a lot more to keeping your car in top shape than just "waxing".

Some people may think they go "overboard" at autopia but you can pick how much you are willing to do to achieve your goals.

I'm happy with the results.

[gc_caddy]

Thanks all! I'll be doing more reading and research at the suggested links. The Caddy is going to look sooooo good!

[STYES]

"Elbow grease" is the only thing I'll use on my cars. I would NEVER use any tipe of orbital device, just one mistake, and you have damaged the paint. You can't say the same for your own manual dexterity. I only use cotton towels, and not the ones at the parts stores, the ones meant for your body! I never use the same towel, for separate jobs. I.E., the Armor All towel is ONLY for Armor All. I never wash my towels together, they can "mix" impurities, especially Armor All. NEVER use "wax" on good paint, use "POLISH" instead. Only use wax on worn, or oxidized surfaces, as wax has abrasives that "fix" the finish per se. Never wash a towel designed for polish, or wax applications. Use a clean spot on the towel, and when none are left, discard it. The only towels I consistently reuse, are ones to dry my cars. I always wash them, with an insane amount of fabric softner! When washing a car, forget the car wash liquid. Use dishwash soap instead. Dishwash soap is designed to "cut tough stains, while keeping those hands silky". Easy on the paint! I also add a cap full of cooking oil, to the wash bucket. Not only does that help spotting, but it prevents dirt, from scratching the surface. Oil and water don't mix, but the dirt gets trapped in the oil! Try it, you will be surprised by the results!

[Cadillac STS]

better to use a smaller buffer...easier to use and work with...better to get around your car too

[Bill K]

Styes, you really need to go to http://www.autopia.org/ and learn how to take care of your veh. I dont mean to sound harsh but I dont know how else to say it.

[Ranger]

NEVER use "wax" on good paint, use "POLISH" instead. Only use wax on worn, or oxidized surfaces, as wax has abrasives that "fix" the finish per se.

It's polish that has the abrasives to remove surface scratches and swirl marks not wax..

[rek]

But then again, a cleaner wax can remove or fill in small or fine surface imperfections. A polish can be like a glaze (oils and fillers), without any abrasives. Depends on what name brand you use. Meguiar's, Mothers, or take your pick, have their own meaning for common terms like polish, glaze... It gets thick...

[Marika]

When washing a car, forget the car wash liquid. Use dishwash soap instead. Dishwash soap is designed to "cut tough stains, while keeping those hands silky".

Sorry to disagree but dishwashing DETERGENT is LOADED with grease cutters which cause premature drying of your car's paint due to the fact that it STRIPS all the oils from the paint. It also strips the oils that are found in your vehicle's wax thereby weakening the bond between the wax and the surface. In most cases, it will actually remove the wax and that's something you want to avoid.

NEVER use dishwashing DETERGENT on a car.

If you are going to make your own car washing solution, start with 100% tallow soap which comes from beef fat and add to it a tablespoon of olive oil for every 5 gallons of luke warm water. This is a good temporary car washing solution if you run out of the good stuff like what Zymol sells.

A good car washing solution is designed to remove the dirt from your car while maintaining the oils in the car's paint. Don't compromise your vehicle's finish by stripping it with grease cutters such as those found in dishwashing DETERGENT.

[Ranger]

Marika,

I don't mean to start any arguments here and I certainly don't speak with any authority on paint but I doubt there are any oils in paint that would be removed once it is dry. If the paint was pourous enough to "strip oils" from I would think it would also be pourous enogh to let moisture in. I seriously doubt that you'd do any "damage" with dish washing detergent. I would not disagree with you about stripping the wax that you worked so hard to apply. That is why I never use ANY detergent of any kind. I simply soak the car, break the dirt loose with a sponge and flush it off. I am sure the purist/fanatics, which I can tell you are, will say that this method will scratch the finish. I also remember someone once saying that dust will scratch it as it slides across the finish when you drive. Perhaps under a microscope these scenarios are true but no one looks at it thru a microscope and I can truely say my car still has a glass like finish. I'm sure this will generate a lively discussion. Anyone want to weigh in?

P.S. Please don't take offense at ''purist/fanatic". That was not meant to be derogatory.

[Marika]

Marika,

I don't mean to start any arguments here and I certainly don't speak with any authority on paint but I doubt there are any oils in paint that would be removed once it is dry. If the paint was pourous enough to "strip oils" from I would think it would also be pourous enogh to let moisture in. I seriously doubt that you'd do any "damage" with dish washing detergent. I would not disagree with you about stripping the wax that you worked so hard to apply. That is why I never use ANY detergent of any kind. I simply soak the car, break the dirt loose with a sponge and flush it off. I am sure the purist/fanatics, which I can tell you are, will say that this method will scratch the finish. I also remember someone once saying that dust will scratch it as it slides across the finish when you drive.  Perhaps under a microscope these scenarios are true but no one looks at it thru a microscope and I can truely say my car still has a glass like finish. I'm sure this will generate a lively discussion. Anyone want to weigh in?

P.S. Please don't take offense at ''purist/fanatic". That was not meant to be derogatory.

Straight off the Zymol Website:

[Ranger]

OK, but take into consideration that is advertising. They are trying to get your money. Perhaps there is some iota of truth to what they say but ask yourself this. If I don't use their product (I'm not saying it is bad) is my paint going to dry out and flake off? I am rather a large sceptic when it comes to advertising. I don't believe everything I read. I guess that's not such a bad thing, otherwise I'd be spending money on Tornado's and fuel line magnets

[Marika]

OK, but take into consideration that is advertising. They are trying to get your money. Perhaps there is some iota of truth to what they say but ask yourself this. If I don't use their product (I'm not saying it is bad) is my paint going to dry out and flake off? I am rather a large sceptic when it comes to advertising. I don't believe everything I read. I guess that's not such a bad thing, otherwise I'd be spending money on Tornado's and fuel line magnets

It's not just advertising, it is based on science.

All paints, be it latex, oil based, enamels, acrylics etc., contain oils, binders and/or derivatives of oils or plastics and ALL oils and derived plastics eventually evaporate and crack which is why you don't want to use a product on your car that will speed up that evaporation process, you want to use something that will seal off the finish and slow the evaporation process. Carefully designed car wash soaps which contain oils, as well as waxes which also contain carrier oils, all being naturally derived oils, are the best thing to use on your car.

One of the most interesting things that I've noticed about a car's paint when it dries out is that it no longer has "depth" of color. The paint's color appears "flat" and "thin". A car that has good paint on it will have a depth of color that when viewed under good lighting, shows all the colors that were mixed to make that particular color but then I have to admit, my eyes are very sensitive to color, I did at one time study and train as a diamond grader; most diamond graders are women because of our sensitivity to colors which is better than that found in men's eyes.

[Bill K]

The only time to use dish soap on your car is if you are prepairing it for Zaino, which is a paint sealant polish.

You want the car wash soap to "float" the dirt away and not drag it over the surface. Also good car wash soap doesnt strip wax. Us with black cars can very easily see the scratches know as swirling.

Swirl marks can be hidden with filler products like 3M Swirl Mark Remover. Or buffed out with a compound like Menzerna.

If your going to wax after than 3M is easier and faster. If your going to use a sealer like Zaino you need the Menzerna since it doesnt leave any oils that keep the Zaino from bonding w/the paint.

Theres a lot of products out there that do the same thing but the preperation of the paint is the real difference.

No matter what you use you should 1. clean the paint. 2. polish the paint. 3. protect the paint.

However, most anything is better than doing nothing.