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Popping from front driver side


Astrak

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My 92 Eldo just recently started popping from the front driver side wheel when going over bumps or in reverse. My guess is tie rod end but I will have to look this weekend is there anything else I should look at that might be causing this noise.

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The going over bumps makes me think that its the stabilizer bar bushings. You can not see that they are bad until they are out. They are cheap to replace

A tie-rod will create vibration that you feel through the steering wheel and could create high speed vibration

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Yep, sounds like stabilizer bar bushing. If popping sounds like metal-to-plastic, it's your plastic splash shield hits the bar. Replacing the bushing should fix that.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Oh there is vibration in the steering wheel, would some of this cause the car to be higher on the passenger side also and cause a rough ride?

Is it higher on the passenger side or lower on the drivers side? Meaning could the drivers side be sagging? You could have drivers side sagging or your strut could be bound up on the pass side.

Push down the the fender and see if it feels bound up. Jack up the pass side and grab the wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and see if you have play...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I did about everything I could think of to the struts to test them and they all seem ok, the passenger rear is out of tolerance by about an inch but the strut is ok. I can push on all four corners to normalize the struts and the problem goes away but as soon as the ELC kicks on when I start the car it goes out of tolerance again and no matter what I do neither side matches. Also it sounds like some bushings are bad on the rear passenger side I say this because I can hear a thud from there when I go over bumps.

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I did about everything I could think of to the struts to test them and they all seem ok, the passenger rear is out of tolerance by about an inch but the strut is ok. I can push on all four corners to normalize the struts and the problem goes away but as soon as the ELC kicks on when I start the car it goes out of tolerance again and no matter what I do neither side matches. Also it sounds like some bushings are bad on the rear passenger side I say this because I can hear a thud from there when I go over bumps.

That is probably the problem you are having, the rear is binding because of bad control arm bushings, knuckle or the strut is inoperative two ways dampening and leveling.. (it could be a combination of worn parts also)....

When my rear strut was bad (no dampening) I would hit bumps like a ton of bricks....

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Alright so I found a loose nut on the top of the strut on the rear passenger side and after I tightened it the ride seemed better and it leveled better. I also found that my stabilizer bar bushings are worn, i also checked the outer tie rod bushings but they all seemed ok so now the steering wheel shake must be in the inner tie rod bushings. Are the inner tie rod bushings hard to replace?

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The outer tie rod is easy the inner I have no experience with. Did you have play in your tie rods? I dont think you confirmed that

You check them by grabbing the wheel when it is off the ground at 3 and 9 oclock and feeling for play...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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NO the 3 and 9 oclock play tests the tie rods. Why are you replacing the tie rods, do you have 3 and 9 oclock play in the wheel while its off the ground. I am trying to figure out why you are replacing the tie rods

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No there is no 3 and 9 oclock play, wouldn't this test the ball joint? Just looking at the tie rod ends I can see a gap between the bushing and metal and it is falling apart. I guess if they are not bad well at least I have new ones and know that they will last awhile. If they are not bad what else would cause the steering wheel to shake so badly?

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its hard to get play at 12 and 6 due to the ball joint. lots of times when the ball joint is bad its still tight. my deville was squatting from a bad ball joint and when I took it out there was very little play in it..

let us know how it turns out

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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