clucas6308 Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 Hi to All, This site is just another good reason to own a Caddy. I read that strut brerings going out are commonon Seville's and well drivers side is out, I had a Rrrrr when turning the wheel and packed the strut bearing, best I could, and wola, no Rrrrr anymore, this is a very temporary fix of course but now what will it take to change it? Thanks everyone. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 I don't know where you read that its common for strut bearings (I assume you mean strut mount) to go out, this is the first one I heard in 7 years.. Maybe one other (Regis on a 94). It is recommended to replace the strut bearing when the struts are replaced. Your 2003 should not need them at this point so this is surprising. Is you car still under warranty (extended) you don't say? I see on another of your posts that you have 70K miles. Assuming that your struts are good, you need to remove the strut assembly, and a front end or machine shop can break down the strut assembly and replace the strut mount/bearing.. The car will need an alignment after that. My strut mounts (1996) were about $80 each.. Not sure what they are on an 03. Here is a photo of a strut assembly, the strut mount (bearing) is #2. Is that what you are talking about? That can make noise when turning if it is defective Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazglenn3 Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Sounds to me like the wheel bearing/hub assembly is what needs to be changed. Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clucas6308 Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 No warrenty so I was hoping to change it myself but it sounds like I need to remove the whole strut and bring it in. I must be wrong on the common part but it did go away when I packed it, no bounce when stopping pushed down on the front end and the strut seems quite firm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 No warrenty so I was hoping to change it myself but it sounds like I need to remove the whole strut and bring it in. I must be wrong on the common part but it did go away when I packed it, no bounce when stopping pushed down on the front end and the strut seems quite firm. If you did not remove the strut from the car and then from the spring, whatever you greased was not the strut mount (thrust bearing). For what it's worth, the factory installed strut mounts on my '98 are smooth and quiet at 150,000 miles. Worth mention on '98 - '04 Sevilles and '00 to '05 Devilles, if you did not need an alignment before you removed the struts, you will not need an alignment just because the struts have been R & R'd. Alignment as a routine maintanence procedure is becoming a cash cow similar to tranny flushes. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 If that right Jim? If he removes the strut assembly and breaks it down he won't need an alignment. Is this different than my 96? Thanks, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Starting in '98 and '00, the (5) strut mounting holes are a net build fit. There is no slack in either the chassis holes or the strut holes. None. In fact, if the suspension geometry is outside the specs, it is necessary to file the chassis mounting holes in the appropriate direction to adjust as necessary. And the specs are quite broad. So unless something is collision damage bent, forget the alignment. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Thanks for that info Jim, I didn't know that. Another reason to buy a 98 STS... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clucas6308 Posted September 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Bodybyfisher has a diagram and #2 is where I packed in the grease and the turning noise stopped I realize it is not intended to have grease packed in there but I managed to blow some in w/compressed air. I sure it is only working temp fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 I might try the grease. The driver side strut bearing has "failed" on my car twice. The first time was when mom owned it, prior to 80k miles, when I got it. It's been making a squawking noise over larger undulations for years now. With the reports here of problems with the strut bearings, I would classify them as a "common" problem. Often when people report a jerking senstation in the wheel when turning, a strut bearing fixes the problem. I just tried white lithium grease last night on mine and I don't think that helped much. Chris, how did you grease it? Did you try greasing it from the top, or did you actually lower the strut and grease it from underneath? Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Bodybyfisher has a diagram and #2 is where I packed in the grease and the turning noise stopped I realize it is not intended to have grease packed in there but I managed to blow some in w/compressed air. I sure it is only working temp fix. Your guess is better than mine, but I doubt if that grease reached the bearing. The bearing surface is inside the yellow nylon/plastic/(or whatever material)[attachmentid=2798] in the picture. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolai Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 Yeah, had to replace mine when I dropped the car. Misalligned the drives side and it was noisy as hell. Easy job to do though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clucas6308 Posted September 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2006 I have a air greae gun and i greased from top first, with no results then I snaked the nozzle as close to bearing with the wheels turned hard to the right and tried to get between the two bearing halves and same turned to the left, also just below the bearing a pocket where the strut goes in. I hope it works for you too. I will replace the bearing but this worked great for me for the time being. I did use an air gun to blow it in also. Thanke again everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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