epricedright Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 I just figured since Im fighting the engine every time I try and stop because the darn revs dont wanna drop(leaky injectors) My pads were wearing faster... Ill pull the wheels off when I change the oil and inspect the brakes, One thigns for sure Im doing most of the work myself now, I had the brakes changed at a gas station I used to trust... I learned theyve been shafting ppl recently, under new management apparantly. As for staying away from autozone Im afraid thats hard to do, the only auto parts stores I really have nearby are autozone and strauss... theres a pep boys but its about 45 minutes away. I bet the gas station you were going to used the wrong grease (petroleum instead of silicone) and your slider bolts are frozen in your bushings. You'd be surprised how many mechanics aren't aware that petro grease is bad for those rubber bushings. Take your calipers off and inspect that the mounting bolts slide in the caliper easily. You should be able to slide the caliper mounting bolts within the bushings with just one finger - if not, replace the rubber bushings. Clean the caliper mounting bolts (sliders), make sure they are nice and smooth (clean), with no rusting or pitting, if not, replace them too. The FSM warns to NOT sand on those bolts! Use silicone brake grease (Syl-Glide) inside the new rubber bushings, and grease the bolts as well. Use a high temp brake grease containing moly and graphite for metal-to-metal contact points such as caliper and pad slide/contact points. Make certain to get no grease on the pad face or rotors, or put grease where it will seap when hot, onto the pads or rotors. Inspect the rotors, they should be nice and smooth, if not, have them turned or replace them. Brakes are not the place to cut corners...do them right, or have them done right...your life depends on them. Your pads, rotors and disk brake hardware kit can be found at rockauto.com. Great prices, fast shipping - I usually get brake parts next day paying regular shipping, and most importantly - quality parts...unlike Autozone. I've heard numerous stories on this board of people having problems with the cheap Chinese junk AZ sells. I used to take my car to a family friend/mechanic and he always bought his parts at AZ. Nothing but junk and return visits, let me tell you. I was having to get my pads and starters replaced every year. It didn't take long for me to figure out I was way better off doing my own repairs, even though he was cheap. Back in the day, he was good, but he now has a helper that's a piece of work. Doing the work myself, I know (hope so anyways) it will get done right, with the best parts, and save a lot of loot too! If you want OEM parts, try rockauto.com, gmotors.com, partszoneonline.com. I highly recommend you pick up a FSM for your car. It will pay for itself ten-fold if you're mechanically inclined at all. Even if you're not, it will tell you exactly how all repairs and diagnosis should be done. If you do the brakes yourself, or any repair for that matter, the board here can help you if you have any problems/questions. Great guys here! Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy Posted September 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 Im having trouble getting what I need off of rockauto.com . All the part numbers and abbreviations are confusing me. I want to Upgrade my front brakes to the heavy duty Kind that I heard was available on my car(bigger rotors I think) SO I need the rotors, pads, calipers, and hardware... Can someone Go through the website and guide me what part numbers Ill need? And if its even wise to upgrade the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 26, 2006 Report Share Posted September 26, 2006 I never hear that an upgrade was available. If you want to go aftermarket you can go with drilled, slotted or drilled and slotted rotors. If you do a 4 wheel brake job and the front and back are doing their share of the braking, there really is no need for an upgrade in my opinion. I would call Rockauto if I were you given the complexity of your issue. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy Posted October 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 Well i gave myself a brake job... I gained maybe 1mpg. Im convinced I got a clogged cat, the sulfur smell is just unbearable sometimes. New development though, It was kinda cold today so I put on the heater. After about 10 minutes I noticed it was blowing cold air. So I put my hand on the vent, upped it to 90 and hit the auto button. it shot hot air for about 5 seconds then switched to cold again. the air that comes out when I hit the ECON button its actually warmer. Also when the heat is on max the heat never came out of the forward vents, only the floor vents, I dont know if thats normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 Well i gave myself a brake job... I gained maybe 1mpg. Im convinced I got a clogged cat, the sulfur smell is just unbearable sometimes. New development though, It was kinda cold today so I put on the heater. After about 10 minutes I noticed it was blowing cold air. So I put my hand on the vent, upped it to 90 and hit the auto button. it shot hot air for about 5 seconds then switched to cold again. the air that comes out when I hit the ECON button its actually warmer. Also when the heat is on max the heat never came out of the forward vents, only the floor vents, I dont know if thats normal. Check the coolant level and make sure it is a 50/50 mix, distilled water/coolant. Anything less that 50/50 will cause problems. You could have a plugged heater core, air mix door problem, or stuck open thermostat. Heater core can be flushed out easy enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 On the '93 Deville you will only get heat from the floor vents. That is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy Posted October 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 THanks guys. I was kinda worried I had a problem. So if I get a cooling system flush and insure i have correct mix coolant, that should take care of the core too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 Theres no walmart close to me, so Ill haveto hunt it down, What does it mean if my transmission is sprug? Are these the crown vic Injectors youre talking about? Bosch Injectors - 0280150556 D5B-19lb* 8/Set: $229. from www.fiveomotorsports.com ? Its not a SPRUG, its a SPRAG. The sprag on these tranny's can go bad, mine did and did much internal damage, if I can find the thread, I will post a link, but I think that was from the old board. If you put the car in N or P and rev the engine, you will get a loud metallic bang and the car will sometimes lunge forward. Get it fixed before it self-destructs, as it did lots of damage the threw lots of debris around my tranny requiring a total rebuild at $1800 if I recall. See this link: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=4216&st=0 I didn't see my name mentioned in this thread regarding the SPRAG till today or I would have posted before this. Sorry Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy Posted November 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 That thread was actually very helpful. So get it fixes asap. What I didnt see on there was weather it was possible to fix the sprag without a rebuild? What would I look at to spend? I might just get a rebuild and swap it out because I think my clutches are slipping too.I know my way around the car little bit but the tranny mystifies me really, any of you guys in the NY metro area think you could give me a hand my caddy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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