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pass key fault problems on my caddy


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i have a 1993 cadillac fleetwood brougham rwd 5.7l and for the pass week my pass key fault has been acting up. ill be inside of the house or at work and when i go out to the car all the lights are flashing and the pass key fault light is blinking on and off. ive tried disconnecting the battery and it still does it. after i reconnect the battery i can start the car and drive where ever with no problems but when i return to the car the same problem. i have no clue what could be causing the problem checked all the fuses and their good. anyone else have this problem and how do you fix it without by passing it?

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I think that's controlled by the bcm and some part of the pcm. Since lights are blinking id say its a bcm problem. May need a new bcm. Vats is a common problem so there's lots of topics about it, especially on impalassforum.com that is where b/d body enthusiests go. I'm thinking there may also be a vats module but maybe that's part of the bcm I don't remember. Most everyone bypasses it.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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i have a 1993 cadillac fleetwood brougham rwd 5.7l and for the pass week my pass key fault has been acting up. ill be inside of the house or at work and when i go out to the car all the lights are flashing and the pass key fault light is blinking on and off. ive tried disconnecting the battery and it still does it. after i reconnect the battery i can start the car and drive where ever with no problems but when i return to the car the same problem. i have no clue what could be causing the problem checked all the fuses and their good. anyone else have this problem and how do you fix it without by passing it?

I had a similar problem with my '93 Fleetwood Brougham a few years ago. The PASS KEY FAULT light was illuminated on a intermittent basis when I attempted to start the car. When the light was illuminated, the starter would not engage. Eventually, it was happening almost every day - I removed the steering wheel, lock plate, turn signal switch (in the steering column, not the lever. It lifted out of the way enough that I did not have to remove it) and discovered the thin "robotic cable" wires for the contacts on the ignition switch were broken. I bought a new ignition switch and had the new switch re-keyed to my gold keys and installed it. No problems since. I did make a "cheater plug" from a resistor and the old ignition switch harness and keep it hidden in the car just incase the problem happens again.

You will need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor to do the job. They are available as part of most of the chain store's loan-a-tool program. I had the toold on hand as I fabricated them many years ago to repair a steering column tilt spring on a Park Avenue I used to own.

The issue with your car sounds like something is setting off the security system. Have you checked for trouble codes? Below is how to do it for your car:

Simultaneously press and hold the OFF and WARMER side of the temp rocker. After the segment check, -00 will be displayed. That is the "pointer". Pressing OUTSIDE TEMP will toggle between the pointer and the trouble code. Use the FAN UP/DN to increment/decrement the pointer.

Pointers -00 thru -04 contain the trouble codes. Current codes are two digits and history codes have three digits with a "1" as the first digit. The second and third digits are the trouble code. For example 32 would be a current code and 132 would be the same code although a history code.

Pointer # Parameter Display Range Default value

-00 ECM Trouble Codes

-01 CCM Trouble codes

-02 ECC Trouble codes

-03 SIR (Airbag) trouble Codes

-04 ABS/TCS Trouble Codes

-05 Program number 0-255

-06 Commanded blower motor spd 0-128

-12 Vehicle speed in MPH

-16 Sun load sensor assy 200+ = Dark 240

150- = light

-17 Current temp. valve position 0-255

-19 Temp valve pos. (full hot) 180-250 180

-20 Temp valve pos. (full cold) 5-60 60

-21 Coolant temperature degrees C 90

-22 Commanded temp valve pos. 0-255

-24 Air delivery mode 0-7

-25 Inside air temp sens Value increases as temp. decreases

-28 Outside air temp asm Value increases as temp. decreases

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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  • 9 months later...

KHE,

I am wondering why you just did not repair the broken wires and replaced the ignition switch instead? Did the new switch come with new wires? The only broken wires I saw were inside the ignition lock cylinder.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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KHE,

I am wondering why you just did not repair the broken wires and replaced the ignition switch instead? Did the new switch come with new wires? The only broken wires I saw were inside the ignition lock cylinder.

The wires are the "robotic wire" (many, many strands and about 22 or 24 gauge). If I soldered the wires, the flex point would then be next to the solder joint and would break again in a very short time. The new ignition switch comes with the wires attached. I had the new switch re-keyed to my existing keys so I was able to keep using my gold keys.

The one of the wires were broken just outside the switch from years of use. I made up a cheater cord and keep it hidden so if it ever does it again, I can bypass it in a few minutes.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Ouch! I do not recall any wires attached to the ignition switch of 91 Seville that would flex. Guess, it is different on RWD GM cars of that era and I will have a no start issue down the road...

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I think all the early 1990s Cadillacs used the same ignition switch construction.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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