IT WAS THE WATER PUMP...NOT POWER STEERING

[Caddynut]

My ticking got louder and louder on my 92 Seville....then a spray of antifreeze and that was all she wrote....broke the belt off. I bought the new water pump tonight and it looks pretty self explanatory on how to change it. Any tricks?? Also....when the belt broke, it tore off the pulley off the water pump. Is that a bone yard item or can I find one somewhere else? Thanks for any help

[BodybyFisher]

Take the four bolts out of the pulley and use the pulley with the new pump. Buy a new water pump. The hardest job is getting the bolts out back by the firewall and scraping off the old gasket material. Pull out the battery to get more room and take your time, its not a bad job. Use Permatex gasket cement.

[BodybyFisher]

I stand corrected its three bolts.

However, the more I think about your question. Do you mean that the three bolts ripped out of the water pump dislodging the pulley or the pulley and pulley shaft ripped out of the STAMPED water pump frame? My guess is that the pulley and pulley shaft (the shaft that is part of the water pump) pulled out of the frame. If that is the case remove the three bolts discard the shaft and reuse the pulley.

I changed the water pump on my 4.9 three times. There isn't much room, but enough to get most of the bolts/nuts out. One of the screws is a Torx if I recall. Move the tensioner with a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar to put the belt on. Start the belt on the crank first and feed it up putting it over the steering pump last holding the tensioner, use a stick/broom handle to guide it over the crank (guru trick). I used a combo of 3/8, 1/4 sockets and box wrenches. I have a gasket scraper (not the razor blade type) with different size blades that helps remove the gasket material from the housing. I typically set the gasket in place on the new pump with a tacky gasket sealant, and also put it on the engine side of the gasket. Care must be taken not to snap the studs. I can not recall how many there are but there is at least one or two studs with nuts. One of mine snapped very easily the last time I did my pump and I have heard others having the same problem. It might make sense to replace any studs, while you have it out. Maybe the dealer can tell you the size or maybe he has them, the bolt/nut is 10 mm if I recall correctly. Mix the coolant and distilled water 50/50 and don't forget to use the cooling system supplement tablets. I usually replace the thermostat any time I have the cooling system drained considering its only two bolts and a little scraping, its pretty easy on the 4.9. Good Luck with it

Close up. The B's are nuts and the D's are bolts I believe

PS, if you look at the front cover in the first picture, you can see the studs. They are helpful for positioning the new pump when you put it in position.

[Caddynut]

Thanks very much for the help. My pulley actually tore out of the 3 bolts...so it is scrap. I have to hit a bone yard tomorrow. I have changed my fair share of water pumps on older cars...but never saw one like that. Thanks again and I will update on the outcome.

Caddynut

[WarrenJ]

I changed the water pump on my 4.9 three times.

WOW!!

Just curious. Lottsa miles? Inferior replacement part?

Regards,

Warren

[BodybyFisher]

I changed the water pump on my 4.9 three times.

WOW!!

Just curious. Lottsa miles? Inferior replacement part?

Regards,

Warren

Brand New replacement part. They lasted about 30,000 miles for me, I could never figure out why, the guru thought that was quick also. They never blew out conveniently either, I was once flat bedded 22 miles to a Marriott Hotel, and I did the job in the morning behind the hotel.

Thanks very much for the help. My pulley actually tore out of the 3 bolts...so it is scrap. I have to hit a bone yard tomorrow. I have changed my fair share of water pumps on older cars...but never saw one like that. Thanks again and I will update on the outcome.

Caddynut

No problem, I have never seen the three bolts get torn out like that, it must have been wobbling badly. YOu mean the bolt head ripped through the pulley? very odd... Good Luck.

[BodybyFisher]

If you can, post a photo of that pulley when you get it out, I am curious to see what it looks like. If I recall, the pulley was a cast aluminum piece, did it appear to crack? Thanks

If you have a hard time finding one, I think I can get one for you, let me know

[Caddynut]

I will post a pic. 2 out of the 3 bolt heads ripped through the pulley. Believe me....the bearing froze up and the belt must have turned the pulley a little too much. I got a new pulley today at the bone yard and I am gonna work on it tomorrow.

[BodybyFisher]

Oh I believe you, I am just interested in seeing what it looks like. Glad you got a new pulley

[Caddynut]

Well, after all day...I finally got the new pump on, BUT IT FREAKIN LEAKS!!! I guess I will have to start over and seal the gasket right. Anyway...here is a picture of the old pulley. Hard to believe that the torque of the belt would tear two bolts out, but it did[attachmentid=2419]

[BodybyFisher]

Make sure you have all the gasket material off the engine side mating surface, any gasket material will not allow you to seat the new pump properly and cause a leak. Take your time, its hard to get at the gasket surface given the bad angle and lack of visibility.

That is something else that those two bolts ripped though, but that looks like a cast pulley which tends to crack with stress, it probably was off center and ripped off, usually the belt comes off and you dont have any accessories (AC, Steering, Alternator, and water pump). The last time my water pump blew I was doing 65 on the turnpike and lost everything, and the engine went to 265 degrees.

[Caddynut]

amazingly, I thought it was cast aluminum or some other alloy, but it was a steel pulley. I guess I will dig back into it this weekend. I was so mad that I even considered the "bad stuff"......STOP LEAK.