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New Blower Fan....But no Air!


acklac7

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About a week ago my blower motor went out...Or I think it went out. I had heard a whining from the dash for a few days..Then the whining got worse, smoke started coming out of the vents...And the blower quit...So I figured blowers bad, install a new one...Btw I believe the spark plug wires caused the blower to fail...They were basically laying on top of the motor...Wish the little tid bit about the wire proximity was included in ignition section, along with the AC section...live and learn.

Ok well I just put the new blower motor in....and it doesn't work. I am getting a

A011 High side temperature circuit. I think the wire to the sensor was replaced at the dealership, and Im guessing the connections just came loose in the process of removing the blower.

So what do you guys think? Has the ACP gone bad or did I damage the wiring to both the blower and the temp. circuit in the removal process?...Should the blower work if I plug it in and set it on top of the Engine (without installing it in the housing)? Thanks...I'll check the wiring out tomorrow when I have some more daylight.

A.J.

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Just went out and moved the Temp. curcuit around a bit...just to see if indeed it was a problem with the connections...Sure enough the fans shut off and no more A011 :)...Seems like its coming from the area where the dealer spliced & re-wired...Still no Blower fan though :(

A.J.

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Should the blower work if I plug it in and set it on top of the Engine (without installing it in the housing)?

Yes, that's how I tested mine before installing it.

"High side tempurature circuit", I think that controls the cooling fans, not the blower motor. A/C programmer is a possibility but fortunately they don't go bad very often as the are very expensive. Do you have power to the red wire?

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Yeah the High side circuit would turn the fans on when it wasn't working properly...At this point I don't think that I've damaged any wires, how would I check to see if I was getting power to the red wire?.....I ran one of the suggested tests through the PCM and I was left with "replace ACP"...How much are we talkin' for a ACP unit?....Assuming that is the problem (which I don't think it is...at this point it is most likely something simple...hopefully)

A.J.

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The '94 and later blowers are PWM controled on the class 2 data network FNA the UART data circuit on the older cars. The older cars did not use UART as fan control.

Any problem on the Class 2 circuit that can corrupt the signal.....no blower.

The actual blower connections often burn/ blue also....

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Logan I saw you were online and I said...."Im sure he will have something to say about it"...Funny how you get to know people's specialty's after a while :) . Thanks for the info but gc_caddy had the answer in the achieves....It was the large MAXI fuse underneath the cover....duh..I checked the ones in the trunk....Forgot about the big ones up front...I guess the manual assumes any competent mechanic would have already checked ALL of the fuses...and therefore doesn't mention checking them...I'll get a new one tomorrow...and she should blasting AC right when I don't need it!! (last week was in the 90's...this week mid 70's)

Larry how did you go about getting the bottom mount bolt installed? I had a nightmare removing it (the wiring harness is not bolted to the engine and is in my way) and cant figure out how to install it...I can't seem to get ANY tool down there to tighten the bolt.

A.J.

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Larry how did you go about getting the bottom mount bolt installed? I had a nightmare removing it (the wiring harness is not bolted to the engine and is in my way) and cant figure out how to install it...I can't seem to get ANY tool down there to tighten the bolt.

When I did mine I got EVERYTHING out of the way. There was nothing between the cam cover and the blower motor. I just moved that wire loom out of the way. I think I just lifted it on top of the cam cover. If I remember corectly I had to remove a few hold down's to free it up. Then I used a 1/4" drive socket wrench and the brail method.

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Oldgamer....I have found a number of the OBD-I tests to be very detailed and accurate...However the check cooling/AC system test(s) and the EGR test (which indicated there wasn't any restrictions in the EGR lines...and indeed there were) don't seem to be as accurate....Still I love the overides and the tests, and don't know why they phased it out, I think the Gov. forced them to or something?......Also, as Larry pointed out in one of his threads about the blower, the manual suggests replacing the APC for any number of problems....I thought it was something simple, like a fuse or wiring...But all the manual said was "replace ACP"....It would have taken me another week or two of investigating before I did that...lol.

A.J.

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Oldgamer....I have found a number of the OBD-I tests to be very detailed and accurate...However the check cooling/AC system test(s) and the EGR test (which indicated there wasn't any restrictions in the EGR lines...and indeed there were) don't seem to be as accurate

I think those tests will simply tell you that the EGR is operating as commanded. It cannot tell if there is a restriction anywhere.

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Yeah your right...I thought it said that..but I was wrong..When I ran the check it came back as "fault not present" but it could have come to a branch that said "clean EGR passages/check pintle"...but I guess the clogged passage wasn't causing enough problems to mess with the readings.

A.J.

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