Recommended Posts

Hi, it's a 2005 SRX.

the brake lines are corroding at all of those plastic retainer blocks. one just

let loose and leaks.

it appears there may be some kind of chemical reaction between those retainers

and lines.

does anyone know how to remove the brake lines from those blocks. are they just

pressed in?

how serious of a job is it to replace these lines. it looks like a bear.

thanks

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just saw this happen on a 2010 Lincoln, at the retainer blocks, not sure why, car is not garaged.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

scotty still around!

i'm going to leave the blocks alone, as attempting to pull one line

from the block of three would destroy the other lines. so i will tie

the new line to the old ones.

the nuts on the ABS control module are not turning. and the 9/16 wrench is

a bit loose. they seem to be a different type of fitting. there's a chance of cutting the tube close

to the flare nut and use a socket with a long extension.

but my gut tells me not to mess with it, rather cut the tube a foot away,

and couple to the tube going to the wheel with double flare coupler.

 

 

 

Edited by jschunke

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎6‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 6:07 PM, jschunke said:

scotty still around!

i'm going to leave the blocks alone, as attempting to pull one line

from the block of three would destroy the other lines. so i will tie

the new line to the old ones.

the nuts on the ABS control module are not turning. and the 9/16 wrench is

a bit loose. they seem to be a different type of fitting. there's a chance of cutting the tube close

to the flare nut and use a socket with a long extension.

but my gut tells me not to mess with it, rather cut the tube a foot away,

and couple to the tube going to the wheel with double flare coupler.

 

 

 

I was glad to see you come by! @jschunke

I just recently replaced brake lines in a 2009 Jeep Liberty, my daughters car. 

In order to replace the brake hoses, the brake lines need replacing also, can you believe that?, the brake hose and brake line are one piece, what a pain in the behind.

I used nickel-copper brake lines, they have the strength of steel, are easily bendable and are resistant to corrosion.  Check the nickel copper lines out.

Soak the fittings with a good penetrant like PB Blaster (I find PB Blaster to be the best) repeatedly for a couple of days and just let it do its soak job, and be sure to use flare nut wrenches so you don't round out the nut.  The fittings come loose with a snap, not necessarily force.  I find a nice solid whack with a dead blow hammer to snaps them loose, but the PB blaster helps a lot.

Here is a good article on nickel-copper that I saved for future use.   I bought the harbor freight hand held tubing bender that looks like a plier to be very helpful in forming the tubing.

https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html

 


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that was not a fun job. quite nerve wracking experience. three out of four attempts to

make an acceptable flare failed. flaring with those $30 kits requires patients and skill.

 

and sealing all the leaks!

 

i tied the new copper-nickel lines to remains of the old ones with stainless steel ties.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, brake line work to me is the worst job I am not surprised.

I can see the need to buy a professional flaring tool

At least you got it done and the copper-nickle will never corrode.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.