mike5plus5 Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 My BRAKE, Traction Control and ABS warning lights on the dash have been on since I bought this car over a year ago. It has front brakes only and they slide easily on wet road. I'm going to the salvage yard today to buy a control module out of a wrecked car. I hope it will be functional since there is no cash refund although they do have several Devilles with this part and I believe I can exchange it if needed (will verify that before pulling / paying for this). What all needs to be done electrically in order to swap this part other than disconnecting the battery under the back seat? This is a 2003 Deville base model with 230k miles and runs excellent on it's 2nd engine. It just won't stop in case of emergency. Any suggestions / direction are appreciated. Current codes are: No ABS Data No AMP codes No DDS codes No DIM codes IPC U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction / C IPM B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance / C PCM P0442 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Small Leak Detected / C PCM P1189 Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit / C PCM P1571 Traction Control Torque Request Circuit / C PCM P0741 TCC System Stuck Off / C PCM P1860 TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical PCM U1040 Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS / C No PDM codes RFA B3109 ? / C RIM C0660 Level Control Exhaust Valve Circuit Malfunction / C RIM C0658 Level Control Compressor Circuit High / C No RRD Codes SDM U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction / C No VTD codes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Göran W Posted November 24, 2017 Report Share Posted November 24, 2017 Are You sure your battery is ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 13 hours ago, mike5plus5 said: It has front brakes only and they slide easily on wet road My first question is, why aren't the rear brakes working? Are the rear brakes adjusted properly? Does the P-Brake hold? The ABS light is on because the PCM could not communicate with the EBTCM, so I think you are on the right track replacing the EBTCM. The other thing that bothers me though is that there are a lot of current Class 2 communication failure codes, which I think is why @Göran W asked if you are sure the battery is good. I have chased UART ( universal asynchronous receiver-transmitter ) codes before and the "nightmare" is that the defective module could be ANY module, whether or not it is indicated by the codes or even a module that seems entirely unrelated. The UART is nicknamed the 1-800 line because ALL the modules communicate on the same communication circuit. Hopefully the EBTCM is the "ONE"... THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike5plus5 Posted November 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Yes the battery is just over a year old and did well on a load test ~3 months ago when I was troubleshooting a intermittent crank issue which turned out to be the starter. The alternator shows an output of 14.3 volts. Yes the P-brake holds well and the rear brakes may be working somewhat but if so it's hard to tell with the fronts sliding. I may have a bad ground somewhere causing at least part of those communication codes. If replacing the EBTCM does not correct all of those then I'll dig further into it. I hope to get the new EBTCM installed today and will post whatever results I find here. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 From history on my 2001 Deville... The TCC solenoid is fried....the TCC code 1860 is causing a false 741. Transmission side pan technically has to come off to replace the TCC solenoid. There are some youtube videos showing wiggling in a replacement solenoid with the trans in the car. You can try it.....but you need to have a plan B for lowering the trans to get the side cover off to replace the TCC solenoid which should fix those 2 codes. Logan Diagnostic LLC www.airbagcrash.com www.ledfix.com www.ledfix.com/yukontaillightrepair.html www.ledfix.com/ledreplacements.html www.ledfix.com/j42385toolrental.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike5plus5 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 ABS C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 / C ABS C1227 LR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation / H AMP - no codes DDM no codes DDS no codes DIM no codes IPC no codes IPM B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance / C IRC no codes LRD no codes PCM P0741 TCC System Stuck Off / C PCM P1189 Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit / C PCM P1860 TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical / C PDM no codes RCC no codes RFA no codes RIM C0660 Level Control Exhaust Valve Circuit Malfunction / C RRD no codes SDM no codes VTD no codes Yea! The relacement EBTCM module fixed the ABS "No Data" state and it looks like a dirty or faulty wheel sensor may be my only remainig brake issue. (I'll check that tomorrow). I'm not going to worry about IPM B0429 I replaced the oil pressure sending unit last January due to it leaking (although it was funtioning properly). I can't remember if I replaced that with a Delco part? If not, It will get replaced with genuine GM this time. RIM C0660 is new to this car but the compressor has made noise every since I've owned trhis car so I'll look into that tomorrow. Is there a common failure issue with that circuit on these cars? Now, about that TCC solenoid... I lost my left arm 3 years ago so I do all my work one handed with a little help from a prosthetic arm. That TCC solenoid swap looks like it would require a 2 handed person with good vantriliquist skills, so I'll have to wait until I get a better work enviroment than my apartment parking lot (prefferably with a lift). I have a friend who occasionally can make his repair shop avaiable to me on a Sunday so maybe I can plan on doing plan "B" for that soon. I'd sure like to have the extra gas milage with the converter locked-up, and having the cruise control would give my right prosthetic leg a much needed break (lost my right leg too and keeping my prosthesis on the accelerater pedal on long drives gets uncomfortable). Thanks for the help fellas!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted November 27, 2017 Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Nice job THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike5plus5 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Icing on the cake today - cleaned the wheel speed sensor with Gunk degreaser / high pressure washer and cleaned the connector contacts with electrical contact cleaner and now there are no more ABS codes and no ABS, Traction Control or Brake lights on the dash. Wish all the fixes were that easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCadTech Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 WOW THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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