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Replacing ignition switch on 2002 cad/SLS


T Sanders

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good job posting an image on your first post; often people have to figure that out.

 

what are the symptoms you are getting that lead you to believe ignition switch is bad?

Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black

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1 hour ago, Bruce Nunnally said:

good job posting an image on your first post; often people have to figure that out.

 

what are the symptoms you are getting that lead you to believe ignition switch is bad?

Hey BRUCE.Well ,long story short, my,dashboard,windows,heater,air,power,heated seats,went crazy after a hashtag like,came on my info center(dashboard)-OBD codes 1040 1064 1066 1096 1192 1016 1040 1298. 1301! And then overnight kills the batteryChecked G402G201G301G307G200G401 New battery, locksmith examined tumblers!  Bad battery ground was  cause of similar problems,I cured before,so I've been lead to believe that I may have a bad ignition switch! As I now observe the switch itself,located as it is,I can only imagine the proper to way to do such a job(real world!),without a factory service manual! The videos I've observed are of the chop and hack variety!,torch bent wrenches. To even access the two front bolts(ign sw) looks to be a major tear down of the dashboard!  I would appreciate any and all helpful on this issue! TONY- Best to you all!

 -

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Sounds like a low battery voltage condition.

Is the battery still going dead overnight? Have you recharged the battery? Did you check the battery cables at the battery for corrosion?  Did you look at the vehicle at night and make sure the brake lights are not staying on? Recheck the codes and include the letter P, B, etc.. that displays before the four digit code.

Please give us the LONG story, it's more helpful than the short story. 

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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We'll the LONG (smile) story is this ;formerly fine running 2002 SLS with a 9vin De Ville hi po (original motor blown head gasket),has went haywire electrically.(the battery was replaced when the ground cable bolt threads got rusty enough to cause a similar problem two years ago -I'm very familiar to the grounding issues that come up -even on the best -Caddy-Anyhow,I went over the battery cables and ground packs 307-200-301-401-402-,believing a ground problem somewhere was causing (at this time) the lack of info to dashboard, door locks radio,windows,clim control,causing these malfunctioning .It all seemed to start with the drivers heated seat indicater to say both hi/low with the key off and out- with loss of power to the dashboard -so being a ol dog in the game,I went over the grounds (most,but not all),all the mini and maxi fuses with( sandpaper and voltmeter) .also I should add that the headlights would come on when the key went to on.At all times was the battery fully charged or on a three amp charge while plugged into the OBD. Codes came back as follows-U1016 loss of com w powertrain -U1000 datalink malfunction-U1040-loss of ECM-U1064-platform module -U1065loss com-U1066-loss of loss of rear intergration-U1096-loss of com with inst panel-U1192-loss of comm with theft deter-Wow-Seems like a loss of power to the dashboard/computer/accy I would imagine! But where I ask ?How? With ground issues?aside?and power 12v ,new batteries2x,all my codes and avail info lead me to believe I have a bad  starter switch and I can see that's no small job-many years wrenching(40+) car building(one project 81 4/6/8 Seville "500 cu) maney 50s/60s classic caddy builds paint body mechanical HD diesel-this one got me! I had a lot of keys (tool boxes ,shop,house garage,sheed,ect)on the ring-I really am wondering as I look at this ignition switch! I really do enjoy reading your post and will continue.If you could shine some light on this for me,I sure would apreciate it!-Tony-

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These are module communication problems and I doubt if the ignition switch is the problem.

Try disconnecting the battery cables from the battery and touching the cable ends together for a few seconds. This will drain any residual power from the modules and will reset them also. This will give you an opportunity to check the cable ends again for corrosion.

If the problem persists after the module reset concentrate on the G100 circuits. Then I would check the heated seat module and the seat memory module wiring and grounds.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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Will be be looking/working on the 02 SLS today,Will surely look into the areas you suggested.The cables/bolts/ grounds will get a going over again.(g100 curcut,cable touch/reset ect) A fresh perspective is a good thing! I had solved a similar problum by tracking the "loss of communication" to the rear ground strap/corrosion! Problum was solved.That was two years ago.Isnt there a ground also between the motor and frame underneath on the right side? I'm sensing a massive ground failure /but one thing at a time!.That 75k STS gotta be one fine car.My Dark Otter SLS looks black at night.The style of a sharp Cad.is timeless and ageless.We could drive up next to anything and not feel small! True Fact! -I've put quite some time on building 50s Caddys in the bodyshop for a guy who really apreciates a fine automobile -I have a 81 4/6/8 Seville that I put a 500" that I need to get out on the road again-I've had it almost 30yrs! Working on the 02 today tho,Brother! 

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G101 is closer to the core support. 2 or 3 wire connector, removing the air cleaner/PCM assy may provide more access to it. G103 is on a stud rear of engine below and to the rear of the Lift bracket if the lift bracket is still there. G104 and G105 are directly under the engine compartment fuse block.

I clean all connections to bare metal and apply a light coating of dielectric grease prior to reassembly.

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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I have the air cleaner/PCM lifting out as we speak!(g100)-I read here that it's supposed to be lower left engine under therm housing.? Havnt found it yet but I'm just getting warmed up! The 101 is closer to the core support-I'll have my eyes open for it-The103 and104, I'll to put the car up in stands then! Some of the info I had was for a 99 STS and was off.Are any of these grounds splice packs or just 2/3 wires (201). I got a good feeling ,Brother,  now all I gotta do is put the rest of me in motion! Be back with Ya!

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I'm almost certain that I have grounded the + and - cables together at about the same time I cleaned up the battery cables.I believe I read about it on this post! Did you post it before? If so that's where I got it from. In any event I'll do it again-I have located the splice pack on the core support , the splice pack under the front fuse box,along with the 2/3 wire under the fuse box! Hiding in plane site /once you know,Brother! Should I go into the  splice packs to be sure? I went into the ones in the trunk that way- Anyhow they do look like some attn is neaded/ and then the ones underneath! Be back with Ya!

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Cleaning up some corroded splice packs and a main ground cable-Could that be the cause of my "lack of communication"problems? Should know tomorrow when I get it back together!Broke a 2 wire fasioner bolt off under the fuse box-tech screw won't  do it either.Have to dig something up from the hardware store tomorrow-Can't rush these things,like the Bull in a very delicate china shop! Wrenching!

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Lol - Been there in the china shop !!!

It could be the problem but usually the connector, wiring, or the bolt/nut will be loose or very corroded to cause a failure like you are experiencing.

 

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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The rear ground off the battery  had gave me the same problem I two years ago and didn't look any better! As long as the main ground stud setup didn't break off, I'll be able to sleep tonight! These Chicago winters will never do a Caddy any good! Ever! Then I might just have to put it up on stands and check underneath and check out the ones underneath.' I got a feeling like I'm on the right track! Bull in the china shop,my Brother!

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One other thought - we've been concentrating on the ground side, DON'T forget to check the power side while you're under the hood, in the back seat and still in the china shop

Edited by OldCadTech

THERE IS ALWAYS ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB RIGHT - THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH TIME TO DO THE JOB AGAIN !!!

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OCT! Can of worms is right! I got the topside together,started it up,the dashboard and accys "seemed" to be working right-not acting up-I erased the codes on the OBD-the new codes came "back lack of com"! There doesn't seem to be a malfunction, tho-"the can of worms"! Don't I cave to drive the car to put the computer through the "cycle" and the to the OBD? Anyhow, I'll find the list with the latest codes! Back in the CHINA SHOP is right! I'm underneath  looking for those two grounds/studs. Up on the stands and the "Barrel of Monkeys"is on! Later, my Brother!

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I erased the prior codes( before the ground work),and seem to have gotten new ones that "showed lack of com issues. But there didn't seem to be any issues.Started, running (to operating temp),in the garage-not on the road tho.Ive taken this care on prior road tests on other issues on the assumption that the computer needed to reset itself after prolonged battery disconnection.Is this a fact. I'll have to retrieve the exact codes again-the OBD stated to me that I had erased the prior codes. 

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Codes I'm getting-U1301 class 2 comm curcuit short to battery C1016 Powertrain control module class 2 serial data link U1016 Loss of comm with powertrain control module U1000 class 2 data link malfunction U1295 stop lamp switch curcuit open.It SEEMSthst these are current codes,but I'm seeing nothing wrong as the car runs-except the hi+lo indicator be both on for drivers heated seat -no heat tho-Dashboard /accy /warnings ect seem to be gone?? In the shop running?

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I bet that heated seat indicator is a clue to something tho.I do need to find those undercar grounds tho,before I try a test drive,or leave the bat cable on overnight-  It's up on the stands  till Monday!-There's not even a "check engine" light on,at this time! Wish it was that simple! OCT! Cadillac Brother! Be talking to ya!

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