slickvick777 Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 What's up everyone! I use to visit this website years ago. I can't believe what they've done. I am very impressed. Anyway, I have a little problem and hope someone can shed some light. It all started when I noticed the coolent level would go down and I would only have to refill about every 2 weeks. Thought nothing of it because I knew where the leak was coming from (small hose near the thermostat/water pump). I replaced the hose and realized I still needed to fill the water reserve about once a month. There is absolutely no leaks from anywhere else. I let the car sit idle, and looked under and no leak, same as when I park the car (turned off). Until I decided to take a longer drive outside the city (I live in Phx so it is all flatland unless you go up north). I noticed as soon as I started going up a hill messages came up on the Computer screen displaying: "coolent level too hot", "low level coolant", "engine too hot". I freaked! No messages like that had ever come up. I pulled over and realized all the water was coming out of the little hose next to the filler cap (forgot what that is called). It took about 10 min for all the water to come out. I filled it back up with water after the engine cooled down and noticed the radiator caps' seal was a little worn out. so I drove to a gas station and bought another. I thought the part was old and worned out and thought the old cap wasn't able to keep the water down anymore. So I started at the hill again with my heater full blast. Same thing happened!! It even disabled my heater. Computer displaying something like disabling a/c compressor. I filled it up with water and drove back home. I drove for about 1 hour straight with no problems (it was all flatland). I have been driving it since. No problems as long as I keep filling it up with water about once every week. About a week after the incident I noticed my A/C, twilight switch doesn't work anymore. The trunk button and gas button work intermittently. Also, my gas gage stays on "E" even when it is full. My "range" for a full tank was about 350-400 miles. Now it says "LO". I no longer get messages when the radiator/water is low. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON??? Yesturday a man pulled beside me on the road and told me I was leaking water. Why does my car leak water when it is hot? I never had this problem before. I've driven this caddy to California like 30 times and never skipped a beat. I don't want to get rid of it. I love it and proud to drive it like all Cadillac owners. Victor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Slickvick777, Just wondering, When was the last time the coolant was changed and were sealant pellets added? You noted: "Yesturday a man pulled beside me on the road and told me I was leaking water. Why does my car leak water when it is hot? I never had this problem before." 1. Do you mean to say it is still leaking coolant out of the oveflow tube? If so, then that problem should be simpler to correct with another cap or to check for damage to the sealing surface. 2. Or did the other guy say water was comming out the tailpipe? If so, this could be a more serious problem. If #2 you are still adding water every week, cannot find an external leak (like the overflow) and it gets hot when working a bit harder going uphill) - then a headgasket leak might be the problem. If #2, at this point, would drain the coolant, add the Bars Gold sealant to the lower rad hose and refill with the green coolant. Maybe you will get lucky... If the coolant loss continues, then there are various methods to verify a headgasket leak (air pressure tests to bubble up through in the coolant tank, hydrocarbon tests on the coolant to check for fuel residue, etc.). Regarding: "bout a week after the incident I noticed my A/C, twilight switch doesn't work anymore. The trunk button and gas button work intermittently. Also, my gas gage stays on "E" even when it is full. My "range" for a full tank was about 350-400 miles. Now it says "LO". I no longer get messages when the radiator/water is low." These seem like seperate issues (a fuse perhaps), but why the old coolant messages don't come up is a bit of a mystery. 1. I would write down the current and history codes (search under codes). Post those later on this site. 2. Clear all the codes and disconnect the battery for awhile. 3. Note any new codes after the drain/pellets/refill etc. Wait for better help from others on this site. Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 You mentioned several times "added water". Was it actually water or proper 50/50 mix? If it was just water your coolant will boil at some 200. How's your water pump belt and the tensioner. What about cooling fans? The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Fenwick Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 This will be an interesting post. My 92 loses about i pint or so of coolant when the temperature gets up to 217-220 ish. Other than that, the coolant stays put. I have about 60/40 now ('cause I add water), with bars-leak and pellets. The saytem has been checked for exaust gasses in the coolant, that is ok. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james thomas smith Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 My 97 cadillac deville displayed the same symptoms. Ended up having to change the fuel sender unit, replaced the water pump(leaking), checked the belt tensioner, replaced the radiator, and finally the thermostat. The car continued to overheat intermittently, usually at the worst times. Finally I accepted the obvious, that this factory defective engine had a headbolt problem which was later confirmed. Ended up removing powertrain assembly, removing heads. All 20 bolt holes needed repairing, which was done with timeserts. I like the car but I will never buy another GM product. Cadillac has put a real bad taste in my mouth with this overhyped gem of a northstar engine. Smooth,yes, powerful,yes. Is it worth it? HELL NO. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blb Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Finally I accepted the obvious, that this factory defective engine had a headbolt problem which was later confirmed. I like the car but I will never buy another GM product. Cadillac has put a real bad taste in my mouth with this overhyped gem of a northstar engine. Smooth,yes, powerful,yes. Is it worth it? HELL NO. Good Luck. Well said! My thoughts exactly. Many, many customers lost for good because of these issues. GM's market share continues to plunge year after year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 My 97 cadillac deville displayed the same symptoms. Ended up having to change the fuel sender unit, replaced the water pump(leaking), checked the belt tensioner, replaced the radiator, and finally the thermostat. The car continued to overheat intermittently, usually at the worst times. Finally I accepted the obvious, that this factory defective engine had a headbolt problem which was later confirmed. Ended up removing powertrain assembly, removing heads. All 20 bolt holes needed repairing, which was done with timeserts. I like the car but I will never buy another GM product. Cadillac has put a real bad taste in my mouth with this overhyped gem of a northstar engine. Smooth,yes, powerful,yes. Is it worth it? HELL NO. Good Luck. I initially did not respond to your message or slickvic because it was your FIRST posts and I assume you are TROLLS. It sounds to me like you or your mechanic did not diagnose the problem well and you threw parts at the problem. Give me a break, fuel sender unit, replaced the water pump(leaking), checked the belt tensioner, replaced the radiator, and finally the thermostat.. Proper diagnosis would have saved you a lot of time and money, I am TOTALLY surprised you got it fixed correctly with time-serts. And what does a Fuel Sender Unit have to do with overheating anyway? How many miles were on it when the head gasket went? Now that the engine was time-serted is it running correctly? Did it stop over heating? How was it maintained by you and prior owners? When was the coolant changed? There are a whole host of reasons that engine could have had problems. Did you use the coolant supplement? What about the prior owners? Was the engine seriously overheated, properly maintained, coolant changed? Please don't bring your SINGLE POST complaints and moaning here with NO history. We are not interested in that nor are we interested in your opinions about the Northstar engine keep them to yourself. Complaints NEVER remedied ANY problem! We are ONLY here to help you with your problems if you want, complaints and erroneous opinions are handled elsewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 What's up everyone! I use to visit this website years ago. I can't believe what they've done. I am very impressed. Anyway, I have a little problem and hope someone can shed some light. It all started when I noticed the coolent level would go down and I would only have to refill about every 2 weeks. Thought nothing of it because I knew where the leak was coming from (small hose near the thermostat/water pump). I replaced the hose and realized I still needed to fill the water reserve about once a month. There is absolutely no leaks from anywhere else. I let the car sit idle, and looked under and no leak, same as when I park the car (turned off). Until I decided to take a longer drive outside the city (I live in Phx so it is all flatland unless you go up north). I noticed as soon as I started going up a hill messages came up on the Computer screen displaying: "coolent level too hot", "low level coolant", "engine too hot". I freaked! No messages like that had ever come up. I pulled over and realized all the water was coming out of the little hose next to the filler cap (forgot what that is called). It took about 10 min for all the water to come out. I filled it back up with water after the engine cooled down and noticed the radiator caps' seal was a little worn out. so I drove to a gas station and bought another. I thought the part was old and worned out and thought the old cap wasn't able to keep the water down anymore. So I started at the hill again with my heater full blast. Same thing happened!! It even disabled my heater. Computer displaying something like disabling a/c compressor. I filled it up with water and drove back home. I drove for about 1 hour straight with no problems (it was all flatland). I have been driving it since. No problems as long as I keep filling it up with water about once every week. About a week after the incident I noticed my A/C, twilight switch doesn't work anymore. The trunk button and gas button work intermittently. Also, my gas gage stays on "E" even when it is full. My "range" for a full tank was about 350-400 miles. Now it says "LO". I no longer get messages when the radiator/water is low. WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON??? Yesturday a man pulled beside me on the road and told me I was leaking water. Why does my car leak water when it is hot? I never had this problem before. I've driven this caddy to California like 30 times and never skipped a beat. I don't want to get rid of it. I love it and proud to drive it like all Cadillac owners. Victor 1) You need to find out where the water is leaking out of immediately plain and simple, water does not leak for NO reason. 2) Filling it with water is a no-no a BIG no-no, and that could have caused your problem... Check the coolant percentage it should be 50/50 3) You move into the A/C, twilight, trunk button and gas button working intermittently and gas gauge. You are driving a 94 vehicle, its now 11 model years old, if you are NOT mechanically inclined you need to find a mechanic as soon as possible. However if you are NOT mechanically inclined, keeping an 11 year old car could be a mistake if you plan to take it to a mechanic it will get expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Finally I accepted the obvious, that this factory defective engine had a headbolt problem which was later confirmed. I like the car but I will never buy another GM product. Cadillac has put a real bad taste in my mouth with this overhyped gem of a northstar engine. Smooth,yes, powerful,yes. Is it worth it? HELL NO. Good Luck. Well said! My thoughts exactly. Many, many customers lost for good because of these issues. GM's market share continues to plunge year after year. How is that ride on the band wagon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slickvick777 Posted February 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Reply to TDK I did not add sealant pellets. I have added nothing but water in the past few weeks because it all comes out of the overflow tube including 50/50(water/coolant) I replaced the cap with a new one so I know the cap is good. I think the engine is getting too hot and it is letting out the water out of the overflow tube (that is what happened when I last drove up the hill this last time). I think that is why I am having to refill every week. Like I said, there is no leak present when the car is running idle or when it is turned off. When the guy pulled beside me and told me I was leaking water was when I got off the freeway. I assumed the engine was running hot and that is why the water came out of the overflow tube. I don't have a temperature guage on my display so I don't know exactly how hot the engine is running. How does one search for codes (or clear the codes)? Also, can I get air pressure tests done at the local mechanic's or is there a specialty place? REPLY TO SCOTTY Correct, this is my first post in a couple of years. How does this make me a TROLL? Are you saying YOU never had a first post? I don't consider my post to be a moan. If you "READ" my post you will notice I wrote NOTHING negative about the North* engine or about Cadillac for that matter. I was just trying to get a little help from other willing Cadillac owners. I am a proud owner of 3 Cadillacs (1956, 1973, and 1994), all of which I enjoy and look after the best I can. victor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 If you have been adding just water for the last few weeks you are diluting the mix and are much less than 50/50 which will lower your boiling point, Perhaps that is your problem. Any shop can put a pressure cap on the system, pump it up to 15 psi and see if it holds pressure. I'm not familiar with the Concours. Don't you have an "Info" button (drivers information center) to get volts, temp etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Here is a possible scenario: you had a bad cap and the cooling system was not pressurized, which lowered the boiling point of your mixture (assuming even it was 50/50). So you wree continually losing coolant and adding water making things even worse (by lowering further the boiling point). Despite you put new cap your mixture is way out of 50/50 and the boiling point maybe very close to 212. I would firstdrain the coolant and fill it with proper mix and sealant pellets. Then I would check out all the related items such as water pump bel and TENSIONER etc. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 REPLY TO SCOTTY Correct, this is my first post in a couple of years. How does this make me a TROLL? Are you saying YOU never had a first post? I don't consider my post to be a moan. If you "READ" my post you will notice I wrote NOTHING negative about the North* engine or about Cadillac for that matter. I was just trying to get a little help from other willing Cadillac owners. I am a proud owner of 3 Cadillacs (1956, 1973, and 1994), all of which I enjoy and look after the best I can. victor It was a coincidence that the system showed the both of you with your FIRST posting.. IN the past we have gotten trolls that post under different names as support for each other. The moaning statement was not directed at you as you can see in the direct post I gave to you. There was entirely too much negativity and band wagon jumpers in this thread and you will find that negativity and I do not get along too well at all. But that's me... I am willing to help and did try to help you, sorry for jumping to the conclusion that you may have been a troll, I was wrong, but as I said, we are here to help not to get hit with negativity and narrow minded opinions (from others here). Hmmm we had a 55 and a 74 caddy also.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 This will be an interesting post. My 92 loses about i pint or so of coolant when the temperature gets up to 217-220 ish. Other than that, the coolant stays put. I have about 60/40 now ('cause I add water), with bars-leak and pellets. The saytem has been checked for exaust gasses in the coolant, that is ok. Ed Ed confirm this, but I believe that having too high a concentration is not good for your water pump seal. I will do some research on this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Fenwick Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Sorry Scotty I ment 60%water and40%coolant. Soon , Iwill change that little hose between the radiator and the overflow tank. The coolant must be going someware,just havent found it yet. Tks Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pos2nat Posted February 14, 2005 Report Share Posted February 14, 2005 I once changed my radiator cap with a new one from Advance Auto, correct pressure rating. My coolant oveflowed with that new cap, even though I had the proper mix. I bought another cap from a chevy dealership and the problem stopped. Sometimes little things like OEM radiator caps make a big difference. I would also recommend proper 50/50 mix, sealant tabs and a new OEM thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james thomas smith Posted February 14, 2005 Report Share Posted February 14, 2005 My 97 cadillac deville displayed the same symptoms. Ended up having to change the fuel sender unit, replaced the water pump(leaking), checked the belt tensioner, replaced the radiator, and finally the thermostat. The car continued to overheat intermittently, usually at the worst times. Finally I accepted the obvious, that this factory defective engine had a headbolt problem which was later confirmed. Ended up removing powertrain assembly, removing heads. All 20 bolt holes needed repairing, which was done with timeserts. I like the car but I will never buy another GM product. Cadillac has put a real bad taste in my mouth with this overhyped gem of a northstar engine. Smooth,yes, powerful,yes. Is it worth it? HELL NO. Good Luck. I initially did not respond to your message or slickvic because it was your FIRST posts and I assume you are TROLLS. It sounds to me like you or your mechanic did not diagnose the problem well and you threw parts at the problem. Give me a break, fuel sender unit, replaced the water pump(leaking), checked the belt tensioner, replaced the radiator, and finally the thermostat.. Proper diagnosis would have saved you a lot of time and money, I am TOTALLY surprised you got it fixed correctly with time-serts. And what does a Fuel Sender Unit have to do with overheating anyway? How many miles were on it when the head gasket went? Now that the engine was time-serted is it running correctly? Did it stop over heating? How was it maintained by you and prior owners? When was the coolant changed? There are a whole host of reasons that engine could have had problems. Did you use the coolant supplement? What about the prior owners? Was the engine seriously overheated, properly maintained, coolant changed? Please don't bring your SINGLE POST complaints and moaning here with NO history. We are not interested in that nor are we interested in your opinions about the Northstar engine keep them to yourself. Complaints NEVER remedied ANY problem! We are ONLY here to help you with your problems if you want, complaints and erroneous opinions are handled elsewhere... Well it seems we've upset Mr. Scotty Man and he has resorted to name calling. Isn't that special. No it's extra special. Well, I won't descend to his level, I'll just state the facts. After reading the post from Slick Vic I noticed that his problems did in fact mirror the problems that I had with my 97 deville. Due to my haste in responding to the post it appeared that I associated certain repairs with the overheating situation, which had no relavance, my apologies. As far as the full history of repairs to this car, I don't care to sit here and spend the time to list, there are just to many. I will give you a condensed version though as it relates to overheatng. 1.97 well-maintained cadillac deville 122,000 miles. 2.Coolant starts to disappear mysteriously with no apparent leaks. 3.Water pump starts to leak, replaced unit. 4.Radiator developed leak in the tank, replaced unit. 5.Car begins to display overheating scenario, typical for northstars. 6.Replaced thermostat as a precautionary measure to no avail. 7.Performed all the little maintenance checks to ensure the little engine that could would perform well, ie. water pump belt tensioner,water pump belt, you know the drift. 8. Removed radiator cap to check for bubbles in coolant and sure enough there they were, how depressing. 9. Went on ahead and pressurized several cylinders with air, problem confirmed. 10. Removed powertrain assembly and dimantled engine. Not a pretty sight, but it was what I expected. Repaired all 20 headbolt holes with timeserts. 11. Engine now runs smooth as silk. The average person more than likely would not perform this repair as it would be considered major surgery. I still like this car and am still impressed with its' performance, so I will keep it. No one can convince that Cadillac with all its research and development is'nt aware of what happens when you put two dissimilar metals together. Electrolysis mind friend, in other words corrosion! This forum is great, and it saves a lot of people from getting ripped in parts and service from the dealership. Now once again, lets look at the facts and be realistic, I've owned buicks, chevrolets, oldsmobiles, ect., all were good cars. This is'nt the first time cadillac has put out an inferior product, admit it. If you have the wherewithal you can turn a lemon into lemonade as I have done, if you don't don't buy a cadillac or get rid of the one you have. As far as diagnosing and overheating problem, as soon as the coolant starts to disappear, suspect the worst, as this product has a history of head gasket problems due to headbolts loosing there torque due to corrosion. And northstars don't exhibit your typical blown head gasket symptoms as the symptoms are a lot less severe and the car is driveable. Always check for bubbles in the coolant first, it is a good place to start. Sincerly, James Thomas Smith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 14, 2005 Report Share Posted February 14, 2005 What ruffles my feathers sir are these types of statements that you make highlighted in red: Finally I accepted the obvious, that this factory defective engine had a headbolt problem which was later confirmed. Ended up removing powertrain assembly, removing heads. All 20 bolt holes needed repairing, which was done with timeserts. I like the car but I will never buy another GM product. Cadillac has put a real bad taste in my mouth with this overhyped gem of a northstar engine. Smooth,yes, powerful,yes. Is it worth it? HELL NO. SCOTTY>>> Let me interject that when the heads are removed is NECESSARY to time sert ALL 20 holes!!! You make this statement like there was some sort of problem because all 20 needed to be time-serted >>All 20 bolt holes needed repairing, which was done with timeserts << Well, I won't descend to his level, I'll just state the facts. SCOTTY >> I sir was decending to your level SCOTTY >> I specifically asked about maintenance, to simply say that the car is well maintained is not adequate.. When was the DEXCOOL coolant changed SPECIFICALLY? AT WHAT MILEAGE? It should have been changed AT LEAST twice by now, pull out your records and tell me the mileage. No one can convince that Cadillac with all its research and development is'nt aware of what happens when you put two dissimilar metals together. Electrolysis mind friend, in other words corrosion! SCOTTY >> There in the reason that the coolant MUST be changed as per schedule! Now once again, lets look at the facts and be realistic, I've owned buicks, chevrolets, oldsmobiles, ect., all were good cars. This is'nt the first time cadillac has put out an inferior product, admit it. If you have the wherewithal you can turn a lemon into lemonade as I have done, if you don't don't buy a cadillac or get rid of the one you have. SCOTTY >> This statement is your opinion! Lets look at the facts and be realistic, what facts? As far as diagnosing and overheating problem, as soon as the coolant starts to disappear, suspect the worst, as this product has a history of head gasket problems due to headbolts loosing there torque due to corrosion. SCOTTY >> This is a gloom and doom statement, guarenteed to lead you down the WRONG path and get you ripped off by an unscrupulous mechanic. I NEVER SUSPECT THE WORST, AND LOATH PEOPLE WHO DO! It could be a bad cap, bad water pump belt, a bad hose, bad thermostat, a leaking radiator. What makes you hit the panic button? EVEN ON THIS BOARD WHERE PEOPLE COME BECAUSE THEY ARE HAVING PROBLEMS ONLY 12% OF THE ENGINES HAVE BEEN TIMESERTED! SCOTTY >> Did you buy your car new? If not what mileage did you buy it at? How was it maintained BEFORE you bought it? Who maintains it? Was the cooling supplement utilized? Listen I am not saying that you did not have a problem, I just want ALL THE FACTS, please enlighten us.... I directed your post to bbobynski, he is extremely experienced with this engine and I am sure he will have answers for all of your statements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevyorange Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Well, I'm going to step in here with my problem. Losing coolant and getting hot, but not that often. I have had the system flushed and added tablets 5 months ago, and just recently added Bars seal powder when adding coolant due to a "low coolant level" message. I have noticed an exhaust smell in the overflow tank. I do not see bubbles in it when warmed up and running. There are no leaks anywhere on the car, the belt seems good, the tensioner seems good and the water pump seems to be working fine (no leaks, no seizures etc). 91,000 on a second hand 1994 STS. It certainly sounds to me like I'm about to take a plunge into timesert city. I will probably have it done by a Cadillac dealer just because I want it done by an experienced tech. In the past this is a job I would have tackled myself but I have three torn disks in my back and just can't turn the wrenches anymore... plus, I'm afraid of all aluminum engines! Any words of encouragement or does it sound like I'm on the right path? Anyone recommend trying to trade it up at a dealership on a slightly newer used STS? Open to all ideas! Regards, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 One method is to use a block tester, also known as a combustion leak tester, to determine if you have exhaust gases in your cooling system. A combustion test kit can be found at your local NAPA, auto parts store. The part number is 700-1006. The price for this part is less than $50.00. Exhaust gases in your cooling system can suggest a head gasket leak, a cracked block, or a warped head, etc. A leaking head gasket can create excessive heat and pressures exceeding the ability of the radiator’s cooling capacity. You could also do a cooling system pressurization leak-down test to see if you are losing pressure to confirm your thinking. If you were going to trade up to a used car I would make sure it was GM certified and possibly extend the remaining warranty. The problem with a used car is that sometimes dealers get them at auctions and clean them up, and no one knows the history of the car or the maintenance history for sure. Being that its a 94 you won't get much, the question you have to ask is, do you want to throw $2,000 or more into a 94 or throw that money at a newer vehicle. I wish you luck with this problem.. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevyorange Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Well, I am pretty sure I'm over the pickle barrel on this. I bought it 6 months ago, and of course the coolant was clean and at the level, and was the 2nd time I test drove it. The car is flawless otherwise and the seller (now I know) acted stupid and said the car was fine. Obviously with this problem he knew about it when he sold it. I'm seriously thinking of trading up (I only paid $5k for it). I have some money coming in that I either would spend on fixing this expensive problem or stepping up to a newer car with less miles and for sure would only buy with warranty of some sort from the dealer. I love the STS, other than losing coolant it drives very nice and is everything else on it works perfectly. This is my first let down ever with any GM car and while I can't blame them for it, to me a car should go to 90k miles without head problems. Oh well, I'm a GM guy. Thanks for your input. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Hey now that you elaborated on it, get it fixed! If you can find a good mechanic that has done the time-sert job before you will have a great car that you like! Have them seal the case half and replace all seals while they are at it also..... Mike You are talking to a GM person yourself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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