Newbie wants to buy a "pre-owned" STS

[KG6PSK]

Greetings from San Diego!

In about nine months or so, my truck ('97 Chevy half-ton ext cab) should be paid off. Don't get me wrong, I like my truck. But, my habit of long roadtrips and the commute to work is starting to wear on her just a bit. Added to that, the truck is, well, a truck. She has a nice big 5.7 Vortec which moves along right smartly, but handles like a pig.

On talking to the bank, I am good for a $30,000 loan, so I plan on going shopping for a good, clean, slightly broken in STS. The better the condition and the lower the miles, the better. No trading the truck - she's still useful for backcountry travels, hauling this and that, and so on.

When I look for my STS, what are some of the specific things that I should look for? What are the things that should steer me away from a particular car? This is going to be an important purchase so I want to be sure that I do it right.

Thanks,

Mark

[tjtjwdad]

1. Check for signs of water in the trunk, these models have a tendacy to do that.

2. Drive upto around 65-75 MPH and see if there is a vibration. There have been complaints of certain models doing this.

3. If you get the VIN # any GM dealer can run a check to find out what maintenace has been done as long as it was done at a GM dealership.

4. If it cimes with a NAV system, make sure you get the CD/DVD. They can get expensive when you need to procure one.

5. If you're not overly concerned of being limited to 130 MPH don't bother, else wise check the tire type (speed rating) on the drivers door.

6. Depending on te year, if the car comes with the "green" anti freeze, try and find out how often it has been changed ... if possible.

7. Make sure you have both FOB's (keyless entry) and the owner(s) manuals.

8. Romp on it real hard, say at about 40 MPH, when it down shifts look in the rear view miror for a dust cloud out the back glass. Hold on to the wheel though, these cars can move like their heads on fire & their @ss is a catchin'.

9. The 2000 and up runs on regular fuel, from 99 and back, premium is recommended.

Elsewise, it's just like buying any other car, do your home work and operate all the bells and whistles that come with it. Be advised though, some of these cars do use oil .. some more than others.

Good Luck

[OynxSTS]

tjtjwdad gives a pretty through check list...

I would add

10) After a test drive I would download the codes from the ODB II system and look for anything "scary". Fear suspension codes as the OE shocks are mucho $$$.

11) If you’re looking at a newer STS get one with the rear bumper sensor… These cars are NOT easy to park…

12) IMO the best STS's are the late 2002s (built after Jan 2002), 2003s and 2004 STS (Canada only) These have Magneride shocks which are way cool. Of course until you have to replace them. Look for option F55 in the RPO list on the bottom of the spare cover... In the trunk. Regular road sensing is F45.

13) For 30 Large you should be able to get one with a good chunk of factory warrantee remaining. Extended warrantee is a personal perference thing... Lots of good debate on both sides of this in the archive.

[AaronM]

these cars can move like their heads on fire & their @ss is a catchin'.

NICELY PUT!

[RalPh]

For 30K you'll be getting a newer one I'm Sure (no "Green" coolant) I would think you find one just off-lease with @20,000 miles or so. That's the way to buy one, just broken in

I would just add - CarFax!!! for sure.

When I was shopping for mine ($23K w/24Kmiles from my local dealership w/records) I came across some real P.O.S.s out there - salvage titles - "rolled-back" odometers - 3 owners/last year - ect.. It was worth the price 10 X over.

[OynxSTS]

Oh and don't forget to shop around!

Prices and values of these cars vary greatly region to region. When I bought mine asking prices for '02s and '01s ranged from $28K (Canadian) to $43K (Canadian) interestingly enough one of the '02s was the cheapest of the four cars I looked at it was also in the best shape...

I used Carfax on mine too... Cool tool and worth the $30...

But the accuracy of Carfax also depends on the region and the insurance companies... one of the '01s I looked at had hit a moose to the tune of almost $10K worth of damage earlier in its life... But it's Carfax was clean...

If you can, its worth spending $30-$50 with a trusted body shop to put the car on a hoist and check for major accidents.

[fredster]

Sounds like you got some good advice so far!

I would add this: Check the DTC for codes before AND after you test drive it. This will give you a good idea of current problems with the car. If you don't know how to look for the codes on the DTC, press the "off" and "warmer" buttons at the same time and watch the screen. It will list all the current and history codes. What I like to do is clear all of the codes before I test drive, then check again after. Check this page out for DTC help:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/howto.html

After the car gets up to normal operating temperature, drive the MESS out of it. Give it a few wide open throttles on the freeway, and as tjtjwdad said, look for dust clouds in your rear. (better to have a friend passenger do the looking!).

As with any car, carfax is great, but a clean carfax doesn't necessarily mean a clean history.

You should do great with $30k! I got my '96 STS last year for $9700 with only 37K miles and in PERFECT condition!

[Marika]

11) If you’re looking at a newer STS get one with the rear bumper sensor… These cars are NOT easy to park…

HUH????

[Marika]

As with any car, carfax is great, but a clean carfax doesn't necessarily mean a clean history.

This is very true. The previous owner of my car had at least two accidents with the SLS and nothing showed up on CARFAX. This was because if the damage is repaired without it being reported to the insurance company, it never shows up on CARFAX. CARFAX relies on information it gathers from insurance company data bases so if an accident claim is never made, it won't show up. CARFAX is a good source of information regarding the history of a car but it's not perfect. Don't solely reply upon it.

There are ways of telling if a car has "Bondo" on its' doors and fenders. The easiest way is by running a small magnet along the doors and fenders. At the point where the magnet loses some or all of its' "attraction" to the metal is probably the point where there is "Bondo" on the car. Going further, by removing the inside door panels, you will see the drill holes and the "worms" from the "Bondo" coming through those drill holes if the door has been repaired.

My rear passenger doors are supposed to both be equipped with child safety locks, but only one door has it. The passenger side rear door doesn't have it and it also didn't have the serial number sticker on it that's supposed to be present so, I'm under the impression that the passenger side rear door was replaced and probably with a cheap aftermarket door since it lacks the child safety lock. These type of inconsistencies from the left to right side of the car is what you should also be watching for. It's a sign that parts have been replaced, and maybe with cheap aftermarket parts that almost never fit properly and will cause problems for you down the road. My passenger side rear always takes on a little bit of water when it rains hard. I suspect it's because the aftermarket door does not have the same fit and quality as an original Cadillac door.

You should take any car you are interested in buying to a bodyshop that you trust and let them inspect it, including the frame. Not only should they be looking for evidence of rust, especially on the undercarriage but if there's been repairs to the body or frame, they'll know and tell you.

[OynxSTS]

11) If you’re looking at a newer STS get one with the rear bumper sensor… These cars are NOT easy to park…

HUH????

Maybe it’s different in your '92, but in my '02 (and my buddies '99) when you look out the back window you have absolutely know idea where the back of the car is... GM left us zero styling clues as to where the car ends. Parallel parking in this car is not fun but the sonic sensors in the bumper (which started in ’00? ’01?) solve this problem. With the sensors parking is a piece of cake.

OK I'll say it, I know you are all thinking it, my wife is a better driver than me

[Marika]

11) If you’re looking at a newer STS get one with the rear bumper sensor… These cars are NOT easy to park…

HUH????

Maybe it’s different in your '92, but in my '02 (and my buddies '99) when you look out the back window you have absolutely know idea where the back of the car is... GM left us zero styling clues as to where the car ends. Parallel parking in this car is not fun but the sonic sensors in the bumper (which started in ’00? ’01?) solve this problem. With the sensors parking is a piece of cake.

OK I'll say it, I know you are all thinking it, my wife is a better driver than me

I can't see out the back window of my 92 SLS either but I do know how long the car is and I can squeeze into a spot, WITHOUT touch the cars in front or behind.

Parallel parking is an "acquired" skill.

[fredster]

KG6PSK,

Marika gave a good example of a "false" clean carfax. Here's another...

I found an '98 STS on ebay and asked many questions, studied the photos, ran a carfax, the works. Car was for sale by a dealership, and the guy assured me it was in mint condition and welcomed me to take it to the mechanic of my choice. I was so confident, I arranged a trip to the mechanic and bought a plane ticket out to Dallas, TX where the car was located (I live in Baton Rouge, TX). The mechanic had it only 30 minutes before he found that the car had been flooded! The drain plugs had been removed and there was rust under the carpet -- BAD!

Needless to say I didn't get the car, and needless to say, I was UPSET!

[an01sts]

Looking for wrecks is one of the more important things, and low mileage cars should always be viewed as suspect. You're not going to find a lot of plastic in wreck repair because such work takes considerable skill, compated to the hack & weld that dominates the industry.

(If my car's quarter were damaged, I would rather have it straightened than having a replacment quarter. And if you knew what was involved in body repair, you would too.)

You won't find the drill and fill body fill, even from the worst cut rate shops. Everybody uses a stud gun, a tool that spot welds a soft metal stud to the damaged area; then, the area is pulled back in shape, and the stud is broken/grinde off.

Filler in a panel is your least concern with respect to wrecks: You need to check for structural damage, and it doesn't take a lot of smack to cause structural damage.

It takes a fair knowledge base to spot the wrecks from the cream puffs, but with a little guidance, you can be an arm chair wreck guesstimater. Belt cut quarters can be difficult to spot, but if you pull the inner trunk side peices, you may be able to spot belt cuts make by major butchers.

Look over the gap alignment, and look at the factory spot welds. Factory welds are quite distinct. Then look for replacment spot welds, whether they are spot or mig. Some guys who are major fussy, can mig welds so that they look exactly like factory spots. The thing is that if you have a car that was repaired by one of these artists, you can feel fairly confidant that the repiar was done correctly. (If the car is done correctly, there isn't anything wrong with a heay collision repiar. The problem is finding a correctly repaird heavy collision car.)

The thing is that there are many--if not most--cars, whereby the welds clearly show that the car has structural repairs. Just because the fabricator doesn't make his/her welds to mimick factory spots, it doesn't mean that the car has been butchered. The thing is that it helps shed light on the car's history, and it helps you negoitate a lower price. Even pefection repairs are of less value than non-colission repairs.

[iowaboy77]

You should be able to buy alot of car for that much green. My 01 STS purchased in October of 04 with 40k miles was loaded with everything except the nav system, and I got it for 19k.

My two cents is to buy it from an actual cadillac dealer and shell out the extra 1000 bucks to get the certified warranty to 100,000 miles. Some dealers certify prior to the sale, so the cost is transparent in the breakdown, but the ones around here ask if you want it, then tack on another grand. Get it certified!

[Poobah]

these cars can move like their heads on fire & their @ss is a catchin'

Well put! My mechanic said it another way, "The Northstar runs like a raped ape!"

[tjtjwdad]

That quote was about the best way to describe the moving ability ... uhh ... "motivation" of a Caddy. Some interesting post here;

1. Definetly get the rear Navigation ... it's nice.

2. My car wasn't certified and was going to cost more to get it certified than an aftermarket warranty and expires sooner. Certification does have better coverage though.

Intersting reading about the CARFAX. So I guess if someone gets a "key job" and it's repaired under your insurance, it will show up on a CARFAX ... ? Interesting!

Jim