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Tail light!


Bob_Caddy

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So here is what happend, I was changing my rear signal bulb and I got the housing off and whan I pulled the burned out bulb, there was a little bit of rust surarounding it! I just cant seem to find a way to yank this thing out! the glass bulb itself is out it is just the bottem part to it that wont budge!

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So here is what happend, I was changing my rear signal bulb and I got the housing off and whan I pulled the burned out bulb, there was a little bit of rust surarounding it! I just cant seem to find a way to yank this thing out! the glass bulb itself is out it is just the bottem part to it that wont budge!

I generally use needle nose pliers then some naval jelly for the rust

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Hey I have a question the warm button and the cold button. (The red and blue one on the instrument panlel) Hard to explain LOL! Are they supposed to light up at night because myn don't do this but I noticed my buddys 93 STS does! What would be wrong here if they actually were supposed to light up? Thanks

Jason

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If you replace the socket buy a genuine GM replacement, the aftermarket stuff can be problematic... Use proper wire splicing technique, I would twist, solder, use shrink tubing and wrap with electrical tape... there is a section in the manual on proper splicing, if you dont have it I will scan it out of my manual, it is imperitive to keep moisture and corrosion out...

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You cant use WD-40 on electrical things can you????? Thats all that I can think of! You have me in a pickle on that one!

If you're even considering a new socket then you might as well spray a little WD-40 on it and let it penetrate in for a minute. Then use a needle nose pliers like someone suggested. When you've got the broken bulb base out just wipe out the socket with some paper towel. And while you're at it spray a little WD-40 on the paper towel to help clean out the rust in the socket. Put in a new bulb and viola!

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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Scotty and others,

You missed a real opportunity to spin a lurid tale about "Navel Jelly" (how to make it and then collect it with a Q-tip, other uses, etc). Lord only knows what those guys were thinking of ;) .

Kinda like the gal who tried the "Kentucky Jello" (KY Gel) in a desert mix... :P

Like I tell the guys at work. Telling the truth should come naturally. Now, telling a "creative story" requires real talent and the determination to stick to it - in spite of the facts! :blink:

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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>what is navel jelly?<

Ya I am unfamiliar with navel jelly!

TDK, I almost took these....

Could have run a mile with them.

Probably better I didn't... B)

'93 STS.. opened, dropped, wide...fast.

user posted image

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>what is navel jelly?

Ya I am unfamiliar with navel jelly!

TDK, I almost took these....

Could have run a mile with them.

Probably better I didn't... B)

wonder how it got it's name? :unsure:

-dave B)

Crystal Red Tintcoat Exterior | Shale/Brownstone Interior | 32k

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>what is navel jelly?<

Ya I am unfamiliar with navel jelly!

TDK, I almost took these....

Could have run a mile with them.

Probably better I didn't... B)

wonder how it got it's name? :unsure:

-dave B)

NAVAL jelly was developed by the good old USN way back (WWII?) for stripping metal surfaces of corrosion prior to paint. It's just a slightly acidic compound in a jelly base.

NAVEL jelly is an entirely different organic based compound that I won't get into..

I'm sure you can find some alt.binaries on the subject... :ph34r:

'93 STS.. opened, dropped, wide...fast.

user posted image

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I would suggest Lloyds Move it greease! It works wonders on rusted electrical parts such as a tail light! ;)

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Defending Northstar perf a qtr mile at a time!!!!

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