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mike5514

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Did not want to do it but I took the car in for the fuel rail recall thursday picked it up about 5pm and it started fine at the dealer, drove it straight home a parked in the garage. At 4pm friday had a hard time starting the car (had to run the starter for a long time) made 2 stops and each time the length of the start cycle became shorter. I thought the computer was just re-adjusting itself because the battery was disconnected for the fuel rail replacement. I did not get any warning lights on my trip. Brought car back to garage and today sunday at 8am the car would not start at all. Have not had a chance to trouble shoot it yet but hope to monday before I call the dealer. Will pull the cover and do the diagnostics with the dic. Has anyone had this type of problem after the fuel rail was replaced. Mike

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Most common problem I have heard of and expirienced after the fuel rail replacement is a misfire (plug wires). Yours is a first. Turn the key on to pressurize the fuel rail. then pull the vacuum hose on the FPR. It's just a shot in the dark but the FPR has to get removed from the old rail and put on the new rail so it was R & R'ed but yet is still original.

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Ouch,This scenario is the only reason I haven't taken my car in for the recall; Im afraid that they will mess something up while inspecting/replacing the fuel rail...then say (ahh it ill cost you about $750 to get that fixed)...had this sort of thing happen all the time w/ the old stealership....It's funny..I WAS going to take my car in this week...but the thought of someone damaging my car just makes me simmer.

A.J.

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Did not want to do it but I took the car in for the fuel rail recall thursday picked it up about 5pm and it started fine at the dealer, drove it straight home a parked in the garage. At 4pm friday had a hard time starting the car (had to run the starter for a long time) made 2 stops and each time the length of the start cycle became shorter. I thought the computer was just re-adjusting itself because the battery was disconnected for the fuel rail replacement. I did not get any warning lights on my trip. Brought car back to garage and today sunday at 8am the car would not start at all. Have not had a chance to trouble shoot it yet but hope to monday before I call the dealer. Will pull the cover and do the diagnostics with the dic. Has anyone had this type of problem after the fuel rail was replaced. Mike

Did you have them go ahead a replace the fuel pressure regulator when they did the fuel rail? The service writer advised me that this would be a good thing to do - the part was fairly inexpensive and the labor would be free since it had to removed anyway. He went on to say that they've seen many FPR's fail and that this would be an ideal opportunity to replace it. Since the fuel rail replacement was free as well, I went ahead and popped for the new FPR. I think it was only 60 bucks and worth more than that to me in peace of mind. I have not had any trouble since the recall service was done - the car performs just as well as it always has.

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Car up and running I pulled the cover and eveything looked ok ran a check on the dic got a B1983 code (volts low batt).Check the voltage on the DIC it read 9.9 volts. Put a charger on the car for the rest of the day. This morning went out the DIC read 10.4 volts car started,but it took a while,made a few trips around town and the battery volts are at 11. dealer did a good job replacing the fuel rail he is not at fault here. The night I first drove the weather and the roads were nasty I drove very slow with the lights on and the blower on, took short trips The alternator never had a chance to fully charge the battery. I will keep a eye on the dic voltage and will change the fuel pressure regulator if I have more problems.Thanks to all.Mike

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The alternator should be able to keep your battery charged with all accessories on. If you were at 9.9 volts and "charging it for the rest of the day" only brought it up to 11 volts I would bet your battery is on the way out.

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Larry That is a distinct possibility at first I thought while in the shop the radio was on or the door left open and the batt. was run down, picked the car up it was warm weather drove 2 miles to house turned real cold that night and next day it was very bad snow and ice. I cranked the engine a long time before it started thats when i thought the computer has to get reacquainted with the car. Made 3 short trips that night(under 2 mi. ea.) with lights, blower,rear defogger all on driving very slow. Drove home let car sit for a day and a half. Ran starter again Sun. no start started troubleshooting next day mon. Now I think I might have ruined the battery I should have placed the charger on the car that night fri. and did my trouble shooting the very next morning. Alternator charges between 13.2 and 14.4 volts so I think its doing its job. Have the trickle charger on the batt. and will moniter it closely, hope I can save it its only a year and a half old. Thanks Mike

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Cranking is very hard on a cold battery (I mean cold winter temperatures). To make it a little bit easier I always turn the head lights for a minute to "wake up" the battery then start the engine. I have got this advice from a seasoned military driver who spent his life in Siberia.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Leaving the radio or light on will not drain the battery. The car has RAP (retained accessory power). After 10 minutes with the engine off it will kill all power. If it is cranking for a long time like you say then I would think the battery is good. Have you checked your fuel pressure?

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