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Numerous problems with 95 Eldo


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I have a number or problems with my 95 Eldo and was wondering if anyone could help. A little history on the car. It has about 65000 miles on her. I bought it here in a Japan from a sailor that was transfering back to the States. Work done on the car by me so far: Replaced Alternator, replaced AC compressor, clutch, and dryer (still not charged due to a leak in the system), catalytic converter has been bypassed, replaced coolant surge tank, replaced right 02 sensor. Here is a list of problem with the car now:

1. Car is overheating when stopped/idling. Left fan is off. Right fan is on when hot. I cannot turn on the AC because it is too cold outside and the system has not been charged. Engine temp returns to normal once air flows though the radiator (driving at speed). Coolant 50/50, good flow from small hose on top of surge tank, fuel pump belt is tight, cap releases pressure only when very hot, not leaks detected.

2. Erractic/racing idle. Car will idle between 1000-2500 RPMs. When I turn the car off there is a loud buzzing from the ICS for about 30 seconds.

3. Left from accelerometer fault (DTC S070). Car seems to ride normal though she floats a bit on the highway. Not a big concern right now.

4. Very bad fuel milage. The computer shows AVG 7 MPG however the motor seems to run well and has decent power.

5. After replacing the right O2 sensor I still get an intermittent P013 code (Right O2 sensor not ready). Could this be because I bypassed the cat?

6. Rough idle when P019 (Bad or open fuel injector) code is current. I beleive this to be either a bad injector or harness. I will listen to each injector for clicking and replace the quiet one. I will also replace the harness. Parts are already on order. If that in not the problem can I assume a bad PCM or could it be something else?

7. AC has a leak and will not take a charge. Reacharged AC twice last year due to low refridgerent code. Later the AC clutch seized so I replaced the compressor, clutch and dryer. There is still a leak detected when a charge is attempted. Yanse's style of recharging is to evacuate while charging. They stated that the system would not evacuate so a charge was aborted. What are other common causes of a leak with this AC system. They recommended replacing the condensor and or evaporator. Is this a good recommendation?

I really like this car and hope to get her in riding condition again. The Japanese really trip when they see it rolling down the road too. Any help with any of these problems would be greatly appreciated!

BTW, The radiation here is not nearly as bad as CNN & FOX claims. All safe here in Yokosuka. Thanks!

Craig

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1. Car is overheating when stopped/idling. Left fan is off. Right fan is on when hot. I cannot turn on the AC because it is too cold outside and the system has not been charged. Engine temp returns to normal once air flows though the radiator (driving at speed). Coolant 50/50, good flow from small hose on top of surge tank, fuel pump belt is tight, cap releases pressure only when very hot, not leaks detected.

If it is like other GM models, some would not turn on the second fan unless the AC was engaged. If the one fan is running and it still is over heating, I probably would start looking at the water pump for poor flow. Someone will probably come on here and say head gasket but my first thoughts would be else where since it is fine at higher RPMS.

2. Erractic/racing idle. Car will idle between 1000-2500 RPMs. When I turn the car off there is a loud buzzing from the ICS for about 30 seconds.

You might want to take a look at the idle speed control motor. I had one go on my 93 4.9 and it did similar high idling. Eventually it pushed the bolt all the way out making the car race down the road and had to kill the motor.

3. Left from accelerometer fault (DTC S070). Car seems to ride normal though she floats a bit on the highway. Not a big concern right now.

4. Very bad fuel milage. The computer shows AVG 7 MPG however the motor seems to run well and has decent power.

Holy #$%^! That is bad fuel mileage.

5. After replacing the right O2 sensor I still get an intermittent P013 code (Right O2 sensor not ready). Could this be because I bypassed the cat?

I would never recommend bypassing the cat. The performance gain is extremely minimal and the benefits to the environment are many.

6. Rough idle when P019 (Bad or open fuel injector) code is current. I beleive this to be either a bad injector or harness. I will listen to each injector for clicking and replace the quiet one. I will also replace the harness. Parts are already on order. If that in not the problem can I assume a bad PCM or could it be something else?

7. AC has a leak and will not take a charge. Reacharged AC twice last year due to low refridgerent code. Later the AC clutch seized so I replaced the compressor, clutch and dryer. There is still a leak detected when a charge is attempted. Yanse's style of recharging is to evacuate while charging. They stated that the system would not evacuate so a charge was aborted. What are other common causes of a leak with this AC system. They recommended replacing the condensor and or evaporator. Is this a good recommendation?

To find a leak I would put some dye in the AC system, run it, and look for a leak with the UV light.

I really like this car and hope to get her in riding condition again. The Japanese really trip when they see it rolling down the road too. Any help with any of these problems would be greatly appreciated!

BTW, The radiation here is not nearly as bad as CNN & FOX claims. All safe here in Yokosuka. Thanks!

Craig

Caddy_Grill.jpg2008 DTS
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Define "overheating" for us how are you determining that, a gage?, boilover?, steam? Give details on how it is overheating.

Is the concentration of coolant to water at least 50%. The water pump itself WON'T restrict flow, but check the WP belt for tension and slipping and a damaged belt. A bad or slipping belt usually shows itself on highway driving

When has the cooling system been totally flushed, what coolant was used and what concentration

I don't have a 95 manual handy, but in 96 there were pre and post CAT O2 sensors did the 95 have those O2 sensors also, for a total of 4?

Why did you remove the CAT, the gas mileage? If the car had plenty of power, the CAT was flowing just fine

Have you checked to see if your fuel pressure regulator is leaking? Do you have black coming out of the exhaust when it idles?

When were the plugs replaced?, what brand are they?

An idle that high will cause it to run hot and consume fuel, as noted fix the ISC motor and adjust properly so that it idles to spec.

Have you checked the left motor by disconnecting the harness and jumping the motor with 12 volts to see if it runs?

Are those the only codes you are getting? When was the thermostat changed? Does the cooling system hold pressure? How is the cap?

What octane of fuel are you using? Does it ping or detonate?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Define "overheating" for us how are you determining that, a gage?, boilover?, steam? Give details on how it is overheating.

--- When stopped the car will overheat past 250 and go into limp mode. There is steam coming from the releif hose/cap. If I keep the car moving (air through the grill) the car will stay at a cool temp. On the highway this AM she stayed at about 205. Once I am stopped the temp quickly rises. If the car is stopped and I keep the RPMS above 3000 she still overheats but not as quickly it seemed.

Is the concentration of coolant to water at least 50%. The water pump itself WON'T restrict flow, but check the WP belt for tension and slipping and a damaged belt. A bad or slipping belt usually shows itself on highway driving.

--- The concentration is 50/50 using regualr prestone anitfreeze. The pump belt and tensioner are tight. I have the cover off the water pump pully and I can see the pump making turns.

When has the cooling system been totally flushed, what coolant was used and what concentration

I don't have a 95 manual handy, but in 96 there were pre and post CAT O2 sensors did the 95 have those O2 sensors also, for a total of 4?

--- I beleive the 95 has a right, and one more after the cat. The P013 is the on on the top of the manifold which I just replaced. I think I may have spotted a white wire hanging yesterday. I'll have to check it out futher.

Why did you remove the CAT, the gas mileage? If the car had plenty of power, the CAT was flowing just fine.

--- I had the car removed becuase the original one had rotted out and was clogging the exhaust. It was making a lot of noise too. Like a huge baby rattle. The car has a lot more power since i removed the cat.

Have you checked to see if your fuel pressure regulator is leaking? Do you have black coming out of the exhaust when it idles?

--- No fuel leaks detected and there is no smell of gas. The car idles well but quite high due to the ISC motor problem. No smoke except for condensation on first start up in the AM.

When were the plugs replaced?, what brand are they?

---

I have had the car one year and never replaced them. I will check them today.

An idle that high will cause it to run hot and consume fuel, as noted fix the ISC motor and adjust properly so that it idles to spec.

--- Concur. I ordered a newe ICS motor and will see if this helps the milage. But 7 MPG? Should I expect that much of an improvement?

Have you checked the left motor by disconnecting the harness and jumping the motor with 12 volts to see if it runs?

--- Plan it to put direct power to the fan to make sure she is good. I will also swap out the relays to see if it moves the problem to the other fan. From left to right which relay is left, right, high speed? Note: I don't think the high speed ever kicks in either. Just the right fan turns...

Are those the only codes you are getting? When was the thermostat changed? Does the cooling system hold pressure? How is the cap?

--- The codes that I get are P013 (intermittent), P052 (due to battery disconnect), P109 (due to battery disconnect), P119 (intermittent), S071. The thermostat has not been changed yet. Part should arrive this week.

What octane of fuel are you using? Does it ping or detonate?

--- The base here only sells 93 octane. There is no pinging or detonation that I can detect. The motor otherwise seems strong.

--- I really appreciate your assistance. Hoping I can at least get the overheating issue taken care of first. I will first try the thermostat. Then I will go into the fans (electrical).

Edited by kureigu3
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Review this thread there is some good info regarding the ISC and FPR, SCOTTY in this thread is me

http://caddyinfo.ipb...topic=4892&st=0

With regard to your statement, yes but 7 MPG?, regarding the high idle, keep in mind that you may have a series of problem all contributing to this over all poor fuel economy.

If the ends are blown off the plugs, the platinum pads are missing or the gaps are big or they are aftermarket non AC DELCO, they could contribute to bad gas mileage

If your FPR (fuel pressure regulator) were leaking you might not know it, pull the vacuum hose off and smell and look for evidence of fuel. While the engine is idling pull the hose look for it to be spitting fuel while you rev the engine a few times, any evidence of fuel replace it.

All O2 sensors MUST be performing correctly.

P013 (E013) .......................................... Right Oxygen Sensor Not Ready

P119 (E119) .......................................... Open or Shorted Fuel Injector

If you have a shorted injector it could be spraying fuel constantly (a guess), but you need to figure out what is wrong with the injectors. Test the resistance of each injector and write each ohm reading down, someplace we have the normal injector resistance spec. I think that you can lift your fuel rail up and prop it up, then you can turn your key to ON NOT START, ON, to pressurize the fuel rail and look at the injectors to see if any are dripping.

I don't know what kind of driving you are doing but stop and go KILLS gas mileage and you will get in the area of 12 to 14 on stop and go

Check your fans, they don't sound like they are operating properly, they should come on at 228 degrees and go off at 217 with the AC off.

Change the thermostat.

I think you should powerflush the radiator you may have an obstruction

Also, you may have air in your system, check to see that your purge line is flowing, there is a 3/8" hose at the top of your coolant tank, (not the overflow hose), with the engine cool, gently pull that hose off the tanks nipple, and let it hang down, go and start the car, coolant should flow steadily from that hose. Let us know the outcome of that test. If coolant does not flow, air can not get out of the system and the water pump will cavitate..

I am glad to hear that the radiation is not as bad as it is being reported, the media over here has an agenda, to me we now have a communist media from the 50s and 60s cold war destroying this country.

Let us know how it goes.

PS, shop for parts at www.rockauto.com and www.gmotors.com the prices are good, not sure if they will ship to you but try them

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Here is a thread on the cooling fans that will give you some details, keep in mind that its for a 96 the codes will be different, in 96 they went to OBD2, you have OBD1

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=17942&st=0

Here is where you can get the meaning of your OBD codes

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No problem, let us know how it goes

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I installed a new ISC motor and the engine idles perfectly now. However, when I turn the ignition off the ISC goes crazy for exactly 20 seconds. The sound is like a cross between a buzzing and hammering sound at the same time. I can see the ICS moving in and out hammering on the throttle. Do I have it adjusted wrong? Can someone help me with procedures on how to adjust the ISC?

I found out why I am still getting the P013 code (Right O2 sensor not ready). The mechanic replaced the wrong one. He replaced the left sensor close to the radiator. *sigh* Ordering another one.

Will put the car on the lift and check the radiator fan relays tomorrow.

Progress, however slight.... But I'm enjoying it. It's been years since I've been under the hood and the Northstar is such an interesting motor. Thanks again all for the help!

Craig

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Glad you are making progress, I closed your other thread, it was getting confusing.

Do a search, there is a LOT of information on adjusting the ISC in the archives, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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