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Stability System and Traction Control Problem


docnasty

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I have a 2000 Cadillac STS and recently I have been spending money on annoying repairs such as a new power steering line, water pump, coolant reservoir, and brakes. My car has 90,000 + miles on it.

My main problem that has been happening the past month is that every time I take a long right turn or a road with a right curve to it at about 15-35 MPH the Traction Control kicks in automatically and it never does it for a left turn or left curve. Also, sometimes when I go to push the brakes and the steering wheel is going right I can hear a grinding sound for a a split second. It happends once and awhile, but the guy at the shop couldn't ever hear anything. Also, another pain in the but problem is that my warning light always comes on when I'm driving to "Service Stability System". I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on my problem and if it's serious because I'm tired of spending money.

s

Main problems:

1. Traction control comes on when turning right

2. Service Stability System light comes on.

3. Little bit of grinding (once in a while) when applying brakes when turning or parking right.

Thanks.

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....

Main problems:

1. Traction control comes on when turning right

2. Service Stability System light comes on.

3. Little bit of grinding (once in a while) when applying brakes when turning or parking right.

Thanks.

1. How do you know the traction control is activated?

2. When you see the SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM message, there will be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the onboard diagnostic system. Here's how to display those codes;

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

The codes are important clues and without them you are shooting from the hip in the dark. Make a note of the "C" codes and post them here.

3. This could be related to the brake replacement you mentioned. Grinding noises are not good.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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....

Main problems:

1. Traction control comes on when turning right

2. Service Stability System light comes on.

3. Little bit of grinding (once in a while) when applying brakes when turning or parking right.

Thanks.

1. How do you know the traction control is activated?

2. When you see the SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM message, there will be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the onboard diagnostic system. Here's how to display those codes;

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

The codes are important clues and without them you are shooting from the hip in the dark. Make a note of the "C" codes and post them here.

3. This could be related to the brake replacement you mentioned. Grinding noises are not good.

In response to question 1. it says on my dash that the traction control has been engaged.

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Here are the codes as of tonight: (I will clear them and see which ones pop up tomorrow)

DIM U1016

IRC B1271

PCM P0102 - CURRENT

PCM P0151 - HISTORY

PCM P1599

TTM U1016 - HISTORY

VTD B1009 - HISTORY

VTD B2734

There was a code for the ABS but it went by to fast to write it down.

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DIM Dash Integration Module

IRC Integrated Radio Chassis

PCM Powertrain control module

TTM Tilt and Telescopic Steering Wheel Module

VTD Vehicle Theft Deterrent

U1016 Loss of Class 2 Communication with PCM

B1271 Theft Lock Enabled - VIN does not match expect value

P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency (CURRENT)

P0151 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1

P1599 Engine Stall or Near Stall Detected

B1009 EEPROM Checksum Error

B2374 Power Sliding Detent (Latch) Circuit Failure

With regard to your driveability problem, the one thing that I haven't seen suggested is that you check your tire pressures. A low tire on the right front can cause the traction control to activate on right turns.

Other than that, your CURRENT code, PCM B0102, apparently means that there is dust or debris in the MAF sensor in your throttle body. The MAF is the Mass Air Flow sensor, which is a few very fine wires in the throttle body in front of the throttle plate. These are delicate, and you should be careful in cleaning them.

Most of the rest are self-explanatory. I would emphasize one, though: the IRC B1271 means that the radio in your car is from another car, and the VIN in the radio has not been reprogrammed. This means that your radio won't work. Unless you've already taken care of this, check with who sold you the radio to help you with this, or go to a dealer yourself with the bill-of-sale and ask the dealer to do it for you.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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....There was a code for the ABS but it went by to fast to write it down.

I do not see any "C" codes in your list.

Since traction control uses the ABS system to control drive wheel speed differences, those ABS code are important. As are all "C" codes.

Play with the code display system long enough to get comfortable with manual toggles to step through the codes of interest.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks for your insight... I'll continue to check the codes for the next few days. Things used to be so much simpler on my 1988 Deville (man I miss that car). As far as my IRC code I have never had a problem with the radio or cd player or anything like that. Once in a while it has a hard time scanning for stations, but other than that it has never malfunctioned on me.

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Get this...I go to start my car today and it wont start...well it starts for a second or two then cough a couple of times and shuts down. WTF is this all about. My battery is old and is about time for a new one but the battery volts says 14 + when running and 12+ when just the electronics turned on. Any thoughts on this now?

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The IRC code is a HISTORY code. The VIN mismatch may be a network error; you have two U1016 codes.

If you have a new problem, run the code again.

Here are the states of the diagnostic mode:

  • Segment test, everything lit up (except CHECK ENGINE SOON light, which is tested separately)
  • Poll the modules and display the codes; skip the rest of this step with Fan Down
  • Each module, one at a time
  • Inside each module, three modes:

  1. Display codes?
  2. Clear codes?
  3. Override inputs? (only a few modules)
  4. Data? (only a few modules)

Here are the buttons and their meaning in the diagnostic mode on my 1997 ETC:

Fan up/down: Yes/No

Off: Similar to <Esc> key on PC, exits to previous state. When inside a module mode, exits to next module.

Data reset: Exit diagnostic mode.

Knowing this, you can go into the diagnostic mode, hit Fan Down to skip polling the modes, then read the codes for each module one at a time. If you miss writing down a code, press Fan Down until you get Codes? again and read them again. When you are done with each module, press Off to go to the next module.

Don't play with the Override inputs. You can screw up your car or even brick your IPM that way.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I was going to say something about a wheel sensor too. I test drove a 99 Deville that had a bad hub and the ABS kicked on WAY to quickly. Made it almost hard to stop. Stabilitrak uses wheel sensors too I believe so that would be a good guess.

-Dusty-

2006 Cadillac DTS Glacier Gold Tri-Coat with 175,000 miles

1993 Cadillac Sixty Special Gold Mist with 185,000 miles

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