Fuel diaphram??

[shanedaddyindacaddy]

i have been having problems lately with my 94 cadillac eldordo, also i know little to nothing about cars. today i found my throttle in my engine by just looking around and when i reved it up the module beside it made a horrible sound and vibration. it think it is the fuel diaphram, and is that also called the fpr? if this went bad would it cause my car to idle rough and stall when it is first driven in the day?

[JasonA]

Yes, a bad diaphram in the Fuel Pressure Regulator can cause a hard start/rough idle after overnight. This is because the fuel leaks down into the intake manifold and the engine runs rough for the first seconds on a cold start. They sell a FPR rebuild kit, which includes a new diaphram and o-ring seals. I bought the kit to replace the very small o-ring at the bottom of the nipple on the FPR and it worked like a charm.

Good luck!

[trmnatr]

You say you found the throttle? Are you talking about the actual spot where the linkage is moving when you move the gas pedal? If so the "module" beside that is called the "idle speed control", not the Fuel Pressure Regulator. If that is ratcheting, vibrating, and making a lot of noise it needs to be readjusted. You need to clarify to the board what you are looking at to get a proper diagnosis. Good Luck

[KHE]

Yes, a bad diaphram in the Fuel Pressure Regulator can cause a hard start/rough idle after overnight. This is because the fuel leaks down into the intake manifold and the engine runs rough for the first seconds on a cold start. They sell a FPR rebuild kit, which includes a new diaphram and o-ring seals. I bought the kit to replace the very small o-ring at the bottom of the nipple on the FPR and it worked like a charm.

Good luck!

Jason,

Where did you find a FPR rebuild kit? I thought the unit was non-repairable.

[JasonA]

Where did you find a FPR rebuild kit? I thought the unit was non-repairable.

The dealership. The first time I cleaned the EGR valve, I removed as much of that fuel line as I could (back when I was relatively unfamiliar with the system), including the FPR. I completed the job, reinstalled the FPR and cranked the engine. Fuel was spraying everywhere. I reseated the FPR and everything seemed fine, except for a very long crank (4-5 seconds). Turns out the small o-ring at the bottom was torn (by me probably) and wasn't sealing properly.

I asked the dealership for the o-ring, hoping it was a separate part. They sold me the rebuild kit, which consisted of all the o-rings, the diaphram, something that looks like a small screen/filter, etc. Basically, everything but the plastic case it appears. I can get the P/N for you if you'd like when I get back home.

[KHE]

Jason,

Let me know the part no.. I think the FPR is going out on my '96 SLS - during warm starts, it cranks longer than it should.

My memory must be going... I seem to recall that the FPR housing was crimped together and not servicable.

[shanedaddyindacaddy]

its the same module that the cruise control is hooked up to, if that helps any

[JasonA]

My memory must be going... I seem to recall that the FPR housing was crimped together and not servicable.

On mine, there's a small metal clip holding the FPR together. I think it secures it to the fuel rail AND to itself. I'll take a digital picture and post the P/N tonight.

[KHE]

Great - thanks!

I only noticed it once when I had the engine beauty cover off and didn't pay much attention to it....

[JasonA]

Here is the P/N for the seal kit: 12570622. The P/N for the FPR itself is: 17113346. Those are according to receipts that are a few years old, so the numbers may have been superceded. Below is a picture of my FPR:

The regulator on mine (a '97 model) is in the very center of the photograph. The yellowish-gold metal top half is compressed and sealed to the lower plastic half with the grey metal C-shaped clip that slides over the "rib" at the mating surface of both halves. Hard to describe, but just know that if you slide the clip off the FPR (to the right in the photograph), you can lift the metal top half off. This has a nipple that points straight down (male) and is sealed to the lower half (female) with a small o-ring...which was where mine was leaking.

Hope this helps,

[Bob D]

its the same module that the cruise control is hooked up to, if that helps any

I'm not sure what you're talking about there SDIC, but our FPR's on 93's and '94's are a bit different from the posts here on this string. I posted a description and method on your original FPR inquiry

[KHE]

Here is the P/N for the seal kit: 12570622. The P/N for the FPR itself is: 17113346. Those are according to receipts that are a few years old, so the numbers may have been superceded. Below is a picture of my FPR:

The regulator on mine (a '97 model) is in the very center of the photograph. The yellowish-gold metal top half is compressed and sealed to the lower plastic half with the grey metal C-shaped clip that slides over the "rib" at the mating surface of both halves. Hard to describe, but just know that if you slide the clip off the FPR (to the right in the photograph), you can lift the metal top half off. This has a nipple that points straight down (male) and is sealed to the lower half (female) with a small o-ring...which was where mine was leaking.

Hope this helps,

Jason,

Thanks for the information. The rebuild kit is a LOT cheaper than the whole FPR!