Brian in AZ Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 Help guys... I have a 95 STS w/ 135k on it, and one day, my ac made a rattling noise at the pulley, obviously a bad bearing. Net day, the ac isnt so cold, soon the low refig message kicks on, and its a done deal. No ac. I live in AZ and its 110. So I buy a new dryer, orifice, and compressor and bring it to a goodyear to get replaced. Mind you, it worked great the week before it quit. They install all, and it kicks itself off after a few minutes. So they tell me pressure switch is bad. Then it's not, and it's actually the low press. side low temp switch on the passngr side. They tell me that its normal for these sensor to need to be replaced after a compressor goes bad. They used the term surging often. They did the diagnostics, the numbers fell to 39 , and the sensor is now bad. Now my interior fan wont even come on anymore and give me at least a breeze. WHat's happening here? Are they in over thier heads on my car? I have wrapped up 1000 dollars so far for a inopperable system. HELP!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 Two words for Goodyear: Stay Away I've heard some horror stories from friends that have been taken for a ride there. They may not all be bad, but the ones around here are. Maybe they didn't like the idea of you bringing in parts bought somewhere else. Less profit for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 Did they inspect for debris from the failed compressor and flush the system if necessary? It is possible some debris has clogged the orifice tube, forcing the compressor to disengage when the high side pressure reaches a critical level. Borrow or purchase a manifold gauge set and take some high and low side pressure readings. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elias Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 check & make sure the blower motor is connection is ok. is the compressor coming on the way it should? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian in AZ Posted September 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 No, the compressor doesnt come on at all. The entire system seems to operate as per the display, but thebuttons just dont make the fan go on or the ac turn on. I can hear all the doors in the dash move, but that's it. They did a flush and replaced the orifice too. The system on the caddy (as Im told) shuts itself down before it can harm the rest of the system and it was impossible to retry the pump after it died. It goes strait to econ mode. WHat im wondering is is it normal for sensors to go bad like that all the sudden. ANd they just opened 5 months ago, and were very happy to have my business. I'm just wondering if there's a trick to this they're overlooking. HELP!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 If the coolant leaks out the system will default to ECON to prevent compressor damage. Obviously there is a leak and since Goodyear did the work, I'd take it back. They do guarantee their work, don't they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian in AZ Posted September 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 Yes there WAS a leak, but there's a new dryer and compressor on there now. It holds its charge, but will not engage the clutch and compressor or blow cold air. They are still working with me on this problem, but I wanted to see if there was anything else I should know about THE SENSORS. The physics of the compressior are OK, but they keep telling me that numerous sensors are now bad. I am simply looking to see if there is validity to this when all was okay last week b4 the compressor went bad. (It has been flushed, and all applicable pts have been replaced.) Sensors are 20-40 each and require recharging the ac each time, and it requires my car be at the shop all day. I'm just tryin to minimize my down time here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 As KevinW noted, get or borrow a set of AC gauges to read the high and low side pressures. At the very least, ask the shop what they had for pressures (if it ever fired up for a while). Sorry, I dont' have the pressures memorized, but the gauge set should have a normal range for R34 refrigerant noted. However, before attemptnig to engage the AC, you may want to disconnect the battery cable for a while - to hard-reset all the various AC sensors. The AC compressor might function for a while (before it trips) even with a low or hige charge - at least long enough to get some readings. If the compressor engages, you might have time to feel if the accumulator and its large diameter pipe gets too cold to touch (a good sign). Good Luck Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 Yes there WAS a leak, but there's a new dryer and compressor on there now. It holds its charge, but will not engage the clutch and compressor or blow cold air. They are still working with me on this problem, but I wanted to see if there was anything else I should know about THE SENSORS. The physics of the compressior are OK, but they keep telling me that numerous sensors are now bad. I am simply looking to see if there is validity to this when all was okay last week b4 the compressor went bad. (It has been flushed, and all applicable pts have been replaced.) Sensors are 20-40 each and require recharging the ac each time, and it requires my car be at the shop all day. I'm just tryin to minimize my down time here. The probability of multiple sensors failing simultaneously for no apparent reason is _exceedingly_ low. It's possible that improper service in the area of the orifice tube could damage the low side temperature sensor; an open in this circuit would set a code, and it would take 10 seconds to check the sensor (using an ohmmeter). Invoke the built-in diagnostics and report all codes, especially those under ACP. The lack of blower functionality may be a separate problem. One possibility that comes to mind is the spark leads might have been repositioned during the repair, damaging the sensitive electronics in the blower assembly. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 If someone installed the orifice tube backward - it may damage the sensor. The long end goes toward the condenser and the short end faces the evaporator. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blb Posted September 8, 2004 Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 Did they replace the o-rings when they did the work? It's a good idea to use fresh o-rings coated with compressor oil. Did they use the proper amount and correct type of oil in the system before closing it up? You'll know if the system lost the charge due to bad o-rings, overtightening of the fittings or if the orifice tube is clogged or damaged once you buy, borrow or rent a set of service gages and check the pressures. If the new compressor is locked up, there's a good chance they didn't add the right oil, or right amount of oil and rotate the unit before installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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