fredflypogger Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 hi i have a 1996 cadillac eldorado etc with 85k miles. i was reading a few old posts on this forum and i think i need front wheel bearings. when i turn the wheel left while driving i get a quiet whining sound but goes away when i turn the wheel to the right or go straight. so you would think it would be the left (driver side) bearing. but i was told it was the right bearing that needs to be replaced. is this correct? also i called lambert gmc and i got quoted $212 for the entire hub assembly(retail was over $330.) it is necessary to replace this entire assembly or can i do just the bearings.? the parts guy said it had to be replaced as a unit due to some abs sensor. is this a difficult job? thanks for the help todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 hi i have a 1996 cadillac eldorado etc with 85k miles. i was reading a few old posts on this forum and i think i need front wheel bearings. when i turn the wheel left while driving i get a quiet whining sound but goes away when i turn the wheel to the right or go straight. so you would think it would be the left (driver side) bearing. but i was told it was the right bearing that needs to be replaced. is this correct? also i called lambert gmc and i got quoted $212 for the entire hub assembly(retail was over $330.) it is necessary to replace this entire assembly or can i do just the bearings.? the parts guy said it had to be replaced as a unit due to some abs sensor. is this a difficult job? thanks for the help todd My experience on determining which side (left or right) is at fault is 75/25. 75% of the time it is the side that produces the noise when loaded. (Turn right to produce the noise = left side bearing. 25% it's the opposite. The bearing "is" the entire assembly. Bearing/hub/wheel studs come as a unit. Barry 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 8, 2004 Report Share Posted July 8, 2004 it sounds like passanger side hub-bearing assembly. I bought mine for some $75 Timken a good brand. Yours is $135 (BCA) at rockauto.com. Good luck The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted July 9, 2004 Report Share Posted July 9, 2004 Got mine at pep boys for about $160. The tools that you will need: 3/8 allen wrench for the 2 brake caliper bolts (don't know why its not metric, but 10mm is too big and 9 a bit too small). 33MM hub socket (pep boys has them for 'bout 10 bucks). Regular sockets are not deep enough (a 34 mm works too if that all they have). t-55 torx for the 3 bolts holding the thing together. You will want at least 1/2 in drive and something for leverage, they may be VERY tight! With those bolts removed, the hub is 'detached', but will not just fall into your hands. I rented a wheel hub puller (the first place gave me the wrong type of puller, and it was inadequate) and even with the correct tool it was very tight. This type of puller bolts to the wheel lug nuts and the center as you would expect, screws against the axle, anything less would not have worked. One person replied that he used a generic puller and a 'blue tipped wrench' (fortunately, he explained that was propane torch - first I had heard of that term!). So there seems to be some range of difficulty with the final release of the hub, but thats it. The axle will try to escape outbound, but that not too difficult to deal with. And a seal will likely remain behind that you will need to pull or tap out (I tapped it with a hammer and punch and its a bit awkward). Putting it back together is quick and easy. I understand that the hub nut should be torqued to 100 ft lbs. (recently did this job in 50 minutes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkchaser Posted July 9, 2004 Report Share Posted July 9, 2004 The aftermarket parts stores ( ie. pep boys, Napa, etc.) have better prices. I purchased mine at Napa with a lifetime warranty. If you get a warranty, be sure to keep the recipt because it's likely you'll be replacing another one soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredflypogger Posted July 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2004 hey dudes thanks for all the help. i plan to tackle it this weekend. i ended up going to autozone and buying the hubs there. i also rented the puller just in case. i will let you know how it turns out. todd cerami Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredflypogger Posted July 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2004 hi well the job was a lot harder than i thought. my axle shaft was rusted inside the bearing hub. after about 4 hrs of trying to get it apart with the puller i got from autozone i gave up. i tried a torch and hammer but it was still frozen. i was ready to drop it off at the dealer (they wanted $149 for labort $350 for the part) but decided to check yy local tool rental store .they had a puller that was much stronger and larger than the auto zone puller. i also used a penetrating oil call PB. The tool rental guy sweared by it. well it only took 5 minutes to remove the frozen axle. after that the job was easy. unfortunately i still have the noise. i plan to replace the otehr side tomorrow. i will let you know if it fixes the noise todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 13, 2004 Report Share Posted July 13, 2004 which side have you done? The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredflypogger Posted July 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2004 hi i replaced the passenger side since the noise got louder when i turned left.it's not a real loud whine but it's definetely there. i hope by replacing the other side cure it todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 13, 2004 Report Share Posted July 13, 2004 did the noise pattern change? did you make some "S" to see the difference? if there is no change i would replace the driver side bearing with one you removed The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredflypogger Posted July 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2004 well, i replaced the passenger side wheel bearing ,it only took me about 1hr 15min. i took the car for a test drive wheel bearing noise is gone but now the cv joint is clicking. i got so depressed i called my local garage to have them take a look at it. turns out the reason the cv joint was clicking is my lower ball joint was shot. they replaced both sides for $500 and now the car is as good as new. what a nightmare. thanks for all the help todd cerami Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 16, 2004 Report Share Posted July 16, 2004 well, i replaced the passenger side wheel bearing ,it only took me about 1hr 15min. i took the car for a test drive wheel bearing noise is gone but now the cv joint is clicking. i got so depressed i called my local garage to have them take a look at it. turns out the reason the cv joint was clicking is my lower ball joint was shot. they replaced both sides for $500 and now the car is as good as new. what a nightmare I am not sure a failed ball joint would affect the CV so quick... anyway the good thing is that the car runs great again. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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