STSSCOTT Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Hi all: I saw someone posted an A/C problem the other day. I have a similar problem...I just replaced my compressor, dryer and orifice tube and a leaky schrader valve. Tried to charge the system after evacuating the system. I'm just using your small cans of 134 with a simple gauge on it, but when it is attached the gauge goes into the danger zone after only abou half the can goes in. I have a feeling one of the pressure sensors is bad. How do I get the codes from a 95 STS, it's a little different from a 96 because I don't have (passenger heat control) Any help is appreciated Thanks Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Try the OFF and WARMER buttons then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted July 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Try the OFF and WARMER buttons then. ok, that works...now, what am i looking at? and what am i looking for as far as a pressure switch for the a/c? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Once in the diagnostic mode HIGH FAN = YES and LOW FAN =NO to the prompts. Decipher the codes here and then post them. http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Did you vacuum the system down with a vacuum pump? If so, charge 2.0 lbs of R-134a into the system. Three 12 oz cans is a full charge because you lose some refrigerant when burping the air from the charging hose and when you change cans. Those gages that are affixed to the R-134a cans are the biggest POS... Static pressure (the system at rest, not running) will set the needle to the danger zone.... The companies that market those devices seem to think an automobile air conditioning system is as simple as a tire... just check the pressure... All ranting aside, you can't tell ANYTHING about the state of charge by the low pressure reading only. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted July 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Once in the diagnostic mode HIGH FAN = YES and LOW FAN =NO to the prompts. Decipher the codes here and then post them. http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html Ok..that was easy once I knew what was going on......here's what comes up A012 which is Low Side Temperature Sensor Circuit Now does this mean the low pressure switch is bad? thanks Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted July 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Did you vacuum the system down with a vacuum pump? If so, charge 2.0 lbs of R-134a into the system. Three 12 oz cans is a full charge because you lose some refrigerant when burping the air from the charging hose and when you change cans. Those gages that are affixed to the R-134a cans are the biggest POS... Static pressure (the system at rest, not running) will set the needle to the danger zone.... The companies that market those devices seem to think an automobile air conditioning system is as simple as a tire... just check the pressure... All ranting aside, you can't tell ANYTHING about the state of charge by the low pressure reading only. I had actually brought it to a garage that a friend of mine works at and he pumped down the system charged it but he could not get the compressor to kick in. He jumped something and got it to run but only runs when it is jumped. He put it on a scanner but something was not compatible to give readings. He also noticed when he took the cap off the high pressure schrader valve it was leaking a little. So I changed that and am now at square one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted July 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Once in the diagnostic mode HIGH FAN = YES and LOW FAN =NO to the prompts. Decipher the codes here and then post them. http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html Ok..that was easy once I knew what was going on......here's what comes up A012 which is Low Side Temperature Sensor Circuit Now does this mean the low pressure switch is bad? thanks Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Once in the diagnostic mode HIGH FAN = YES and LOW FAN =NO to the prompts. Decipher the codes here and then post them. http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html Ok..that was easy once I knew what was going on......here's what comes up A012 which is Low Side Temperature Sensor Circuit Now does this mean the low pressure switch is bad? thanks Scott See my answer in your other thread on the AO12 code. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 I had actually brought it to a garage that a friend of mine works at and he pumped down the system charged it but he could not get the compressor to kick in. He jumped something and got it to run but only runs when it is jumped. He put it on a scanner but something was not compatible to give readings. He also noticed when he took the cap off the high pressure schrader valve it was leaking a little. So I changed that and am now at square one. That's because he never cleared the code. He only bypassed it by jumping it. It will never run with that code present. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted July 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 I had actually brought it to a garage that a friend of mine works at and he pumped down the system charged it but he could not get the compressor to kick in. He jumped something and got it to run but only runs when it is jumped. He put it on a scanner but something was not compatible to give readings. He also noticed when he took the cap off the high pressure schrader valve it was leaking a little. So I changed that and am now at square one. That's because he never cleared the code. He only bypassed it by jumping it. It will never run with that code present. ok, so i am going to replace both pressure sensors today when i get home, clear the codes for faulty sensors, recharge the system with 2 cans of 134, and hopefully i should be ok then?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 I had actually brought it to a garage that a friend of mine works at and he pumped down the system charged it but he could not get the compressor to kick in. He jumped something and got it to run but only runs when it is jumped. He put it on a scanner but something was not compatible to give readings. He also noticed when he took the cap off the high pressure schrader valve it was leaking a little. So I changed that and am now at square one. That's because he never cleared the code. He only bypassed it by jumping it. It will never run with that code present. ok, so i am going to replace both pressure sensors today when i get home, clear the codes for faulty sensors, recharge the system with 2 cans of 134, and hopefully i should be ok then?? THREE cans of plain R-134a. System capacity is 2.0 lbs (32 ozs) and three cans are 36 ozs but you will lose refrigerant by burping the air from the charging hose and then you change cans. You must draw a vacuum on the system for at least 45 minutes and charge into the vacuum. See your other thread for the proper orientation of the orifice tube so you don't destroy the new temp sensor. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.