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96 SLS 4.6L Cooling fan issues and multiple codes


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Ok I'm new here and need a little help, my 96 SLS has a few problems to start i had a bad radiator bought a brand new one replaced it and in the process was checking cooling fans to make sure that they both still worked properly and they do work but they don't come on while the car is running no matter the temp it reaches, and yes i tried to turn the AC on to see if it came on then and the AC is low on refrigerant and will not kick the compressor on, so I check the fuse and it seems to be fine I'm guessing my relays are bad, but my temp does show it getting a little hotter than half way . So I check for codes relating to the problem and it came up with a few and I don't know for sure what is what :

IP 2710 H

RS 0061 H

RS 0038 H

AC 1347 C

AC 2255 H

PC 1604 H

PC 1632 H

PC 1660 H

PC 0300 C

TC 0027C

These are the codes I am getting any suggestion, help, or ideas?

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Thanks for the link to the codes however I'm still not finding a couple could be me I'm a little slow and if possible could someone translate all that gibberish to laymen terms so us dumb people can understand wth it all means? BTW on a side note my abs and traction control lights are on so I know where a couple of the errors stem from just not how to fix the problem

IP 2710 H = ?

RS 0061 H = LF position sensor fault

RS 0038 H = Elec. level control exhaust valve short to ground/open

AC 1347 C = ?

AC 2255 H = ?

PC 1604 H = loss of IPC serial data

PC 1632 H = theft det fuel disable signal recieved

PC 1660 H = cooling fan control circuits ( this is the one I was looking for)

PC 0300 C = engine misfire detected

TC 0027C = LF wheel speed sensor continuity fault

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B2710 - PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet

Try your spare key.

B1347 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Warning

Self explanatory

There is no B2255. Check it again.

RS 0038 H = Elec. level control exhaust valve short to ground/open

Rear shocks are not able to exhaust the air once pumped up. If you load the trunk they will pump up and level off, but once the load is removed the rear end will stay high.

RS 0061 H = LF position sensor fault

Sensor is bad. Jack the LF up and you'll see the sensor with a linkage rod from the suspension to the body.

PC 1604 H = loss of IPC serial data

Might be from pulling battery power.

PC 1632 H = theft det fuel disable signal recieved

Theft deterrent had been activated. The car thought it was being stolen. Might be as a result of B2710

PC 1660 H = cooling fan control circuits

Self explanatory

PC 0300 C = engine misfire detected

Likewise

TC 0027C = LF wheel speed sensor continuity fault

wheel speed sensor is bad. It is integral to the hub & bearing assembly so the entire assembly has to be replaced. It inops T/C and ABS. That is why the lights are on.

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Check to see if your AC COMP fuse is blown, it also feeds your cooling fans, if you replace it and it blows again, your AC hub bearing is overheating the clutch windings and blowing that fuse, you will need to replace the compressor/clutch or by pass it with a short belt

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thank you for you quick responses I have since my last post added refrig to my system for the low refrig issue , while reading on the forum I ran across a thread talking about cleaning the battery terminals and cable ends having to do with low voltages and such . I tried this and to my amazement when I started the car the ac compressor kicked on then the fans came on I can only assume that the low refrig was the culprit and having tried to fill the ac using the jumping of the relay and resetting the codes by unhooking the battery cleared the ac low refrig error and allowed the ac to come on thus fixing my cooling issue.

As for the following codes:

----------->TC 0027C = LF wheel speed sensor continuity fault

wheel speed sensor is bad. It is integral to the hub & bearing assembly so the entire assembly has to be replaced. It inops T/C and ABS. That is why the lights are on.

------------>B2710 - PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet

Try your spare key.

Its funny because these lights come on and go off as they please . When I start the car sometimes they will be there sometimes not but they always seem to come on sooner or later when I'm driving just thought I would add that info in. And TBH I don't have a spare key the car didn't come with one. Could you please explain the shorted pellet you totally lost me on that one.

I still have a few codes to go through but you really gave me a good head start on my problems thanks so much You GUYs are the best .

P.S. all the fuses are AOk :yupi3ti:

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TC 0027C = LF wheel speed sensor continuity fault

Check the connection first for corrosion, a disconnect, looseness first, its possible the connection was knocked off or left off during service, its a common mistake

I just saw your PM regarding the cooling fans

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Ok i have an update car is still over heating getting very close to the red zone the fans work the radiator is new the ac is working ,I put new plugs and wires on it and its still running choppy and rough i had hoped i got the misfire code under wraps but that was a pipe dream i still have the LF wheel code showing and the elec. lvl control code and not to state the ovious but the abs and tc lights are on but i havent addressed those issues im still dealing with an overheating engine and the running rough issue i had the emc changed awhile back and the mechanic said i needed plugs and wires but since that has been changed it running even worse now and yes i have checked all the plug gaps and they are all 0.50 im at a real lost for words atm thanks guys for everything .

quick side note i noticed the ac is only blowing out the defrost but it was working just fine before it overheated this last time

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I did not realize that you where dealing with an overheat issue. Get a block test kit from Napa and test the coolant for exhaust gases before going any farther. The outcome will tell you which direction to go.

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I know exactly where this conversation is going and tbh I have been dragging my feet doing just that exact thing hoping I could get lucky, I have read literally thousands of threads now and they all have a theme to them , I love my car but I cant afford to have that kind of extensive work done and for the age of the car its just not economical for me to have it repaired. Could be up for sale very soon ... but I'm crossing my fingers anyway. Thanks again and I will keep you posted of the outcome

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Ok here is my update I ran the block test test 4 times each time i did it for 2 min just like directions said 3 times it got too hot and contaminated the test fluid 4th time I ran it i did it for just over 4 min with no visible change to yellow. Now IDK but the water was seeming to be pushed out of the res. bottle like it was building up pressure at no time did it ever get much over half way on the temp gauge

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Ok here is my update I ran the block test test 4 times each time i did it for 2 min just like directions said 3 times it got too hot and contaminated the test fluid 4th time I ran it i did it for just over 4 min with no visible change to yellow. Now IDK but the water was seeming to be pushed out of the res. bottle like it was building up pressure at no time did it ever get much over half way on the temp gauge

OK, here is what was wrong with mine. (Overheating just like yours)

There are two hoses connected to the overflow tank. A large one on the bottom and a small one on the top. With the engine cool, take off the top hose and then start the engine. Check the hose for coolant comming out of it. If it does not have coolant flow, rev engine up a bit and check for flow.

If you have flow, then that is not your problem and sorry for bothering you.

If you do not have flow, you are supposed to. Here is how to fix it. At the thermastat housing, there are two hoses, a large one and a small one. Take off the small one and check for fluid flow.

If you have flow, then the small hose is clogged. Unglog it and your overheating problem will go away.

If you do not have flow, then take a piece of hanger about 6 inches long and bend a L in the end of it so you have something to hold onto. then stick the hanger into the small nipple and push it in and out until you have coolant flow. Then reconnect the hose and check for flow at the top by the overflow tank. Once there is flow there, reconnect the small hose and your overheating problem will be gone.

The small hose is the air bleed off for the head. Once the air is purged, then you will get fluid through the hose and all is good.

I hope it works for you like it did for me. Good Luck.

Paul

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final update I replaced the thermostat and the car is running fine never gets above the middle line so other that the traction control and abs errors which i have yet to address, next on the list though everything seems to be peachy thanks for all your help

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