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1996 Eldorado starting problem


BigRedski

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I have a 1996 Eldorado and am having some problems starting the car. Most of the time it starts right up. Sometimes I crank it for 3-4 seconds - nothing. Try again and it usually starts right up on this try. Sometimes it takes a third try. It always starts, and doesn't seem to be idling rough or anything like that. Any suggestions or help you can give me would be appreciated. Also how can I get the codes to read out on this car, and where can I find out what they mean?

Thanks,

Big Red

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Info on reading the codes can be found here ... http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

What the codes mean can be found here ... http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

I think 96 was the first year for ODB 2 codes.... if not, ODB 1 codes can be found here ... http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html

Your problem could be as simple as a worn out key, but you wont know for sure until you check your codes.

Do you get any messages on the DIC when it wont start? (Like starter disabled?)

Jonah

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:welcomesmiley:

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks for the help.

This is what I got when I checked the codes:

PC0603

NO IPC

NO SDM

TC0061

NO RSS

NO PZM

NO IRC

RF2560

NO CCP

PCM?

Couldn't find some of these so I'm not sure I was looking in the right system.

PC0603 - COLDN'T FIND

TC0061 - COULDN'T FIND

RF2560 - COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING EVEN CLOSE TO THIS OUNE

PCM? - I couldn't get any further than this. I tried pushing multiple buttons but it would just turn off the ODB system

Thanks,

Big Red

Info on reading the codes can be found here ... http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

What the codes mean can be found here ... http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

I think 96 was the first year for ODB 2 codes.... if not, ODB 1 codes can be found here ... http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html

Your problem could be as simple as a worn out key, but you wont know for sure until you check your codes.

Do you get any messages on the DIC when it wont start? (Like starter disabled?)

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These are the codes that you posted:

P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset (the battery was disconnected lately)

B0061 Roof Rail Module-Left Deployment Loop Circuit (not right; see below)

B2560 RKE Message Validation Error (key fob battery low?)

T061 Motor Pump Circuit Fault (OBD I code for TCS system)

The RKE is the Remote Keyless Entry, or RFA (remote function actuator, which includes RKE and OnStar). When a module has no codes, you will get a message like "NO SDM CODES." You got this message, so you don't have any air bag codes, and B0061 is not the mystery code. I don't have any other code ending in 0061.

The way to get out of the user mode is to press Info Reset. If you ever do get past the PCM? prompt you are interrogating data and programming the car, which isn't advisable unless you are experienced in this and/or have the factory shop manual in your lap.

You have no codes that would indicate that you have a miss, or that anything is wrong with your ignition. This leaves us with the few things that don't throw codes:

Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR): This is a throwaway part that operates using engine vacuum. It's at the end of the fuel rail and controls fuel release into the fuel return line back to the gas tank. It keeps the pressure in the fuel rail constant, relative to manifold pressure, so that the signal to the fuel injectors gives the same amount of gas regardless of manifold vacuum. If it is hard starting when warm or hot, but starts OK when cold, this is likely your baby. You can check it by popping the beauty cover and pulling off its vacuum line and sniffing it; if there is a gasoline smell, change it. It's about $50 (a little more at the dealer) and you can change it yourself. Be careful and follow the instructions in detail; there are a couple of tricky O-rings.

Fuel filter: If it's hard starting when it's cold and it started giving trouble right after you bought gas, you could have dirt or moisture in the gas, which can clog or restrict the fuel filter. It's under the car on the left (driver's) side.

Fuel pump: It's not that common on cars that are more than a year or two old, but with 12 years on it the fuel pump could be getting tired or intermittent. It's a big job to change it, so the first thing to do is to check the fuel pressure. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel rail where you can get to the pressure. It's right at the input to the fuel rail under the beauty cover. If you don't have 30 psi at idle, or 45 psi with the vacuum line pulled off the FPR, it's bad. If the pressure doesn't change when you pull the vacuum hose off the FPR, the FPR is bad.

If the FPR is good, it's getting gas, and the fuel pressure is OK, then we go for plugs and wires. Are your spark plugs due (over 80,000 miles or so on them)? Are they the original type recommended by Cadillac?

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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