acklac7 Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 For the last 3 months I have been having some strange starting issues. Occasionally I will turn the key and get nothing but an audible "clunk" coming from the starter. Within a second the starter will then engage(?) and immediately start the car (without any laboring/hesitation whatsoever). I've had these symptoms on and off for the past few months and the problem seems to be getting worse. Now it seems as though everyday I will encounter this strange phenomenon: turn the key, hear the "clunk" then wait 1-2 seconds for the car to start. Well today she did the whole clunking routine, but just wouldn't start (1st time this issue has resulted in a no-start). Anyway I let her sit then went out 5min later and she fired right up without any issues. Pulled into the driveway shut her down and then tried to turn the engine over: no clunking, no delay, just instant contact with the starter. Any ideas as to what might be the culprit? I should note that years ago I have a remote start / alarm system installed (which I haven't used for a year)...Maybe the brain in the alarm is causing some sort of short circuit? Any ways any insight is much appreciated Thanks guys, A.J. A.J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 suspect a decay in power delivery to your starter. Caddy's are very sensitive to that. There is a cable directly from the batt. to the starter, make sure the connectors are CLEAN!! it's only 4 bolts to be able to get to the starter, suggest you check out the starter side as well. Marc. If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 As cyr mentioned bad connections or a bad solenoid. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I was leaning more towoards the solenoid as the problem seems to be getting worse. Most electrical starting problems seem to exhibit one (or both) of the following symptoms: A. zero output from the starter (click click click) or B.The starter rev's and rev's but fails to start the engine. That being said the 1st thing im going to check is the connections. Last year I tore the top end down in order to remove the fuel rail, I believe the starter is only a few bolts away at that point...right? Say it is the solenoid that has failed...will the failure show up when an auto parts store goes to check the starter? Or is there someway I can backprobe the solenoid in order to determine it's functionality? A.J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 It's only 4 (Long) bolts to lift the intake body off with just enough space to get to the starter. If you have a northstar engine that is. If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 The symptoms sound like burned solenoid contacts to me. If you had a bad battery or dirty connections, you would have other issues as well. The solenoid has a copper disc that is pulled into contact with two copper pads to provide a current path to the starter windings. The disc is free to rotate slightly each time the starter is engaged. If one area of the disc is burnt, it will result in an occasional no start situation. Continued attempts to start will cause the disc to rotate slightly offering a different contact area allowing the current to pass. Once this symptom has appeared, it will only get worse. Eventually one of the copper pads will be burnt to the point where the solenoid will no longer work. That said, there is also a possibility that your starter has a bad winding in the armature. If that particular winding's commutator bar is lined up with the brushes, the starter will balk when energized. It may turn slightly each time the solenoid is engaged. Eventually a good set of windings will get energized, allowing the starter to spin. In view of the above, I think that a starter change is in order. Take Care, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 The symptoms sound like burned solenoid contacts to me. If you had a bad battery or dirty connections, you would have other issues as well. Altough i agree with your suggestion, there is a cable leading to the starter which could be the cause of this whilst leaving other issues like the computer alone because thats an entirely seperate cable. If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 The symptoms sound like burned solenoid contacts to me. If you had a bad battery or dirty connections, you would have other issues as well. Altough i agree with your suggestion, there is a cable leading to the starter which could be the cause of this whilst leaving other issues like the computer alone because thats an entirely seperate cable. This is true. Investigation of the cable should be the first check to accomplish. The best way to do this would be to connect a volt meter to each end of the cable & check the reading while the engine is cranking. This would give the "voltage drop" in said cable. There should not be any measurable voltage drop. If this is a N*, the ignition and fuel pump should be disabled during this test, as the intake plenum will have to be removed to gain access to the starter end of the cable. Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Great insight guys..Thanks! I'll update this thread once I get to the starter...Might be a week or so though. A.J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Week sounds a bit over the top, wouldn't take you more then 15-20 minutes i think.... If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted February 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Week sounds a bit over the top, wouldn't take you more then 15-20 minutes i think.... Knowing me i'll be under the hood all day, and in the hot tub all night Actually it only took me 30min to get to the fuel raill, at that point all I need to do is remove the intake right? And I checked rock auto and found that ACDELCO make two different starters, one is substantially more than the other (looks like it's a bit bigger too). They also list a number of aftermarket starters, most of which are quite cheaper than the expensive 'Delco unit. Is the pricer starter more powerfull or something? A.J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrez00 Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 I don't think you need to do anything with the fuel rail. There are 4 bolts in the middle of the intake body (surrounded with about 20-25 on the side of the intake body which would open up the upper intake body) which need to be loosened. Disconnect the sparkplug cables on the front bank and that should give you enough clearance to lift the complete intake body far enough to get to the starter. With me, on the side of the throttle position sensor a connector jumped out of it's socket in the process which caused high revs but was solved after reconnecting it. really shouldn't take you more then 20 minutes. otherwise you are on the wrong track. If you are in complete control..... you are not going fast enough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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