gc_caddy Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 When you want to remove the rear rotors, I believe you need to also unbolt the caliper support bracket, which is held by two "prevailing torque bolts" to the knuckle. The Service Manual says that these bolts must be replaced each time they are loosened or removed. Apparently there is some sort of encapsulated thread compound on the threads. Do you normal get new bolts, or do you reuse the old ones (with Loctite?) The torque specification is 81 lb ft, so it's on pretty tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growe3 Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 From my experience, I have never replaced bolts when replacing brake pads or rotors. I have done this dozens of times on many different cars and never had a problem. The caliper bolts act primarily in shear so the only tension stress they see is from being tightened to the anchorage, the loctite is like using "belts and suspenders" to secure the bolts. I would advise you to clean the bolt threads (wire brush them) and then tighten them as directed. Althouh I think it is completly unnecessary, if it makes you feel more comfortable, add a medium grade Loctite immediatly before screwing them in. -George Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 I probably wouldn't use Loctite either. Way back when I first got my Seville, I went to change out the front rotors and pads. I've always done this myself, and thought nothing of doing it myself. Well, I couldn't get the same caliper support bracket off. I ended up taking the car and the parts down the street to Expert Tire and having them do it. They wailed on the bolts with an air gun for a while and finally got them out. There were Loctited in. The dealership must have done that because they're the only folks who have ever worked on the car before that, but man, did it make those bolts hard to get out (impossible with a breaker bar, even with a cheater extension). Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted March 30, 2004 Report Share Posted March 30, 2004 If the manual says to do it, I would do it. I have never replaced the bolts on mine, but that's because I never looked in the manual. Next time around I'll probably change them out. The bolts do corrode over time, and do need to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 I jsut had mine out and they were in excellent condition (as far as corrosion goes). These bolts are fairly robust for 80 ft-lbs. I wouldn't think that they would be streched or permanently deformed with that load, but if the book says change them, it can't be that expensive. I guess I will replace them the next time I have them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted April 1, 2004 Report Share Posted April 1, 2004 It seems like any bolt/nut or screw combination that has anything to do with suspension or brake components are deisgned with some sort or thread pitch diameter interference fit, versus Class 1A, 2A or other thread limits. That is, they make sure nothing will "back out" if all else fails. I would re-use with Loctite 242, not near as aggressive as other Loctite products, which Jason previously stated experience with. These fasteners, I strongly suspect, are purposely designed to "yield", rather than "catastrophically fail", so I do not see any apparent risk, other than had they been been distorted in a previous accident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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