OynxSTS Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 I'm getting ready to replace the pads on my 02 STS... I thought I read that you need a brake "cube" tool to "reset" the piston on the rear calipers... My GM manual says to do it "old school" with a big "C" clamp... Before I break the brakes... Can someone confirm which years needed the piston "turned in" with the brake cube... Thanks.. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted December 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 I just finished reading all of the instructions and it says to only us a C clamp to retract 1mm max... squish it only enough to free the tension off of the disk It then goes on to say... "Retract the brake caliper piston into the brake caliper bore. Use a spanner type wrench and turn the piston clockwise until it bottoms out fully in the brake caliper. " I hope that what I call a spanner and what GM calls a spanner are the same thing... Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Use a "C" clamp on the fronts and brake cube on the rears. Remember, when you install the rear pads, the indentations on the rear pistons must be in the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 An old rear outboard brake pad can easily be made into a decent tool for turning the pistons. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Now why didn't I think of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 You've been working too hard, Larry. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Replacing rear brake pads on an '02??? Betcha don't need to. I just needed to replace the rear's on my '95 etc with 155k (driven spiritedly allways) for the first time last month ... Also, to retract the front calipers, I always do that before removing the caliper using a large'ish screw driver between the old pads and the edge of the rotor or what ever else is handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STSSCOTT Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 The "C" clamp is for pushing the piston back into the caliper, but you also have to reset the screw in part of the rear brakes only, this is what you will need the "CUBE" for, it goes int ohe 2 notches in the disc, it take quite a few turns to get it all the way in............good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 I just finished reading all of the instructions and it says to only us a C clamp to retract 1mm max... squish it only enough to free the tension off of the disk It then goes on to say... "Retract the brake caliper piston into the brake caliper bore. Use a spanner type wrench and turn the piston clockwise until it bottoms out fully in the brake caliper. " I hope that what I call a spanner and what GM calls a spanner are the same thing... The "spanner type wrench" is service manual termonology for the brake cube. I like Jim's idea on using the back of the old pad as a spanner. You could trim it to leave only a small disc with the two bosses and then weld a socket to it so it would attach to a 3/8" rachet. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 I have used the open end of an 11/16" or 3/4" combination wrench in the piston slots. Put a short screwdriver through the box end and torque away. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve6 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 The "spanner type wrench" is service manual termonology for the brake cube. I like Jim's idea on using the back of the old pad as a spanner. You could trim it to leave only a small disc with the two bosses and then weld a socket to it so it would attach to a 3/8" rachet. the cube is pretty in expensive, cutting, grinding, socket welding, not worth it for a $15 tool! Just buy the cube if you expect to do rear discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bc6t Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Hey Onyx.... Just buy the cube - I will split the cost with you....for when I need to do my rears.... Tom. Tom R. 1998 Cadillac STS with 102K Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted December 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 Hey Onyx.... Just buy the cube - I will split the cost with you....for when I need to do my rears.... Tom. Sure... But RMac-ETC is correct... My back brakes are fine... I was betting they were the problem since my front were done at the dealer just before I got the car 2 1/2 years ago... Boy, the back brakes on these cars are pewncy... Anyway... My passenger front brake is fine, lots of meat left.. my driver side is toast... I looks like the inboard pad delaminated or just plain desintegrated. Off to see my friendly GM parts guy tomorrow morning Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 Check the slide pins. Sounds like it is hanging up and draging the brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 If the slider bolt is corroded, the FSM says not to sand on it, but to replace it. I'd replace the rubber bushings as well and don't forget to use silicone brake lube. Check all the sliding contact points to make sure they're smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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