BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Hello all, This is my first post. I've been reading thru posts & it seems like my caddy needs a WOT. The car runs great, has excellent gas mileage, but doesn't accelerate like it should (sluggish). Can I follow the WOT procedure for my '97 Seville as per instructions in this post? (Just want to be sure). http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?s=&...ost&p=82398 Reason: I purchased it used (18K miles) in 2002 from dealer; elderly man was previous owner (I though, yeah...riiight). But, I believe it's true: cup holder didn't have a single mark, heat setting was on about 80F; average MPH in info was 29 (!!); 12-CD changer in trunk was never touched (not even a finger print), etc. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 The WOT procedure is utilized to clean carbon out of the combustion chamber, if you have carbon you will get a cold knock that tends to diminish as the car warms up.. I don't see you mentioning a knock. If you are having performance problems: 1) what kind of gas are you using, what octane? Your car requires 91 premium I believe if you are using 87, the computer will retard timing to stop the engine from knocking, it will still run, but performance can be hampered... I have a 96 Deville and I use 89 and have been fine with it.. WOTs are good medicine however and when you get on to highways, its good to WOT to reach highway speed to merge.. Don't do it in heavy traffic or rain.. 2) You may need a tune up. The early OEM AC Delco plugs lost their platinum pads causing loss of power and quick deterioration of the electrode, widening the gap, hurting performance. Also your ignition wires may need replacing in your 97 by now. 3) Probably not related but I find my car feels PIGGY if I run my tires soft.. Consider running your tires harder. Start with 36 in the front and 34 in the rear and see how you like the handling and ride. The higher pressure will help your gas mileage. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Hi Mike, Thanks for replying so quickly. It's intermittent, but some start-ups, I have to restart because engine seems almost out-of-balance (car actually vibrates slightly while engine 'chugs' at bit). I thought the oil just needed to warm up. Is this what you mean by knocking? Answers: 1) Premium (93 or 94 octane). That's what the owner's manual stated -- octane at least 91. 2) My caddy never did have a quick acceleration, even right after a tune-up. You're probably right about ignition wires -- I'll have this done. 3) I drive mostly highway and will definitely inflate to higher pressure. By the way, PIGGY is the perfect definition! Because my caddy was owned by a fellow who drove slowly and rarely (leather seats weren't even creased!), I thought a WOT was needed. I'll try your suggestions. I love my Caddy & want to keep it for as long as I can. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 You are welcome. You said you had a tune-up. They didn't replace the ignition wires? They replaced the plugs? Did they use AC DELCO? An aftermarket plug like Bosch or Champion can cause havoc in these cars... Definately if you have the original ignition wires they need to go... Was the air filter changed.. I want you to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). Your rough starting could be the result of your FPR leaking and a rich mixture. Gently pull the vacuum hose of your FPR and look to see if fuel is present.. Any fuel means the diaphram is leaking and you need to replace it. This could cause the poor performance also.. The FPR is located under the beauty cover.. There should be four cap nuts holding it down... Remove those nuts and you will find the FPR on the driver's side toward the firewall. See photos below 91 Octane is fine... Your engine has 275 HP you should not be unhappy with the acceleration.... Unless your prior car was a Corvette... Do you get a check engine light? You should check for codes, an O2 sensor problem would cause piggyness... Get a pad and pencil, turn the key on, dont start the car, press and hold the HIGH FAN and OFF buttons on your AC control panel (it looks like the Vulcan mind meld when done correctly, )... When all of the lights on your dash light up, let go, write down all the codes as they come up.... If you miss any, do it again... Report any codes here and we will help you decipher them.. Is the traction control turned off? That would cause you to start in second gear... Photo of FPR, in the second photo, the FPR is circled, pull the vacuum hose off and look for fuel. Smell for fuel also if you can.. Third photo is of a typical FPR Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Hey Barb, congrats on the new car..... That WOT procedure is correct. I prefer on-ramps, but out on the freeway, in light traffic, is okay too.... I generally agree with BbF, and this is no exception... However, I would first do new plugs & wires, before I moved onto the Fuel Pressure Regulator... I am also not quite clear on what they meant by "tune-up"... but I will say this, when I bought mine used, it was stated to me that a tune up had "just been done". Okay. Now, most people on this forum hate Bosch, and you should probably stick with the advice here... But...(there's always a but) I know a guy who works at Bosch, and he comes over one weekend, and he's got a set of their premium wires, and 8 Platinum Plus 4 spark plugs for my car.... So for free, I couldn't turn them down. I noticed my supposedly "tuned up" car has no-name wires in it, so I thought what the hell, I'll throw these in... in the process of changing the plugs & wires, I see that my "tuned up" car has no name wires, and Ford Autolite non-platinum plugs... I'm still scratching my head, trying to figure out what sort of person puts Ford Plugs in a Cadillac, but that's another question for another day.... Mine is running great on the Bosch plugs & wires. I picked up some performance, and 3MPG across the board... My point is, even if it has supposedly just been tuned up, you may want to get a set of the right GM wires, and the right GM Platinum Plugs, and put those in. And also the air filter. That's a good suggestion. Cheap and easy. Also, I might pour a bunch of Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner in it for a couple tanks... see if that helps anything... if none of that helps, it's time to check the FPR, and some other things..... Also, you're way overdue for a radiator service, if you haven't done that. It's 100,000 miles or 5 years, and you're way over the 5 years.... I'm also in agreement on tire pressure... I have mine at 36 all the way around, and that rides pretty good on 16 inch wheels.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 You are welcome. You said you had a tune-up. They didn't replace the ignition wires? They replaced the plugs? Did they use AC DELCO? An aftermarket plug like Bosch or Champion can cause havoc in these cars... Definately if you have the original ignition wires they need to go... Was the air filter changed.. I want you to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). Your rough starting could be the result of your FPR leaking and a rich mixture. Gently pull the vacuum hose of your FPR and look to see if fuel is present.. Any fuel means the diaphram is leaking and you need to replace it. This could cause the poor performance also.. The FPR is located under the beauty cover.. There should be four cap nuts holding it down... Remove those nuts and you will find the FPR on the driver's side toward the firewall. See photos below I'll check my records for all the items mentioned above (of course I keep everything). RE: FPR. I won't be able to check this until next weeked -- but I'll get out my Craftsman toolbox & take a look. 91 Octane is fine... Your engine has 275 HP you should not be unhappy with the acceleration.... Unless your prior car was a Corvette. I wish Do you get a check engine light? You should check for codes, an O2 sensor problem would cause piggyness... Get a pad and pencil, turn the key on, dont start the car, press and hold the HIGH FAN and OFF buttons on your AC control panel (it looks like the Vulcan mind meld when done correctly, )... When all of the lights on your dash light up, let go, write down all the codes as they come up.... If you miss any, do it again... Report any codes here and we will help you decipher them.. No, the check engine light doesn't come on. I did find the codes in other posts. Thanks for listing the sequence here -- I really appreciate knowing the exact sequence for my car. I'll post back with my codes. I'll try to do this today. Is the traction control turned off? That would cause you to start in second gear... Nope -- never turned off. Photo of FPR, in the second photo, the FPR is circled, pull the vacuum hose off and look for fuel. Smell for fuel also if you can.. Third photo is of a typical FPR Wow -- Thanks for the photos! That's really going to help. Actually, I can't wait to try getting the codes. Gotta see the Vulcan mind meld in action. Thank you for all your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 My point is, even if it has supposedly just been tuned up, you may want to get a set of the right GM wires, and the right GM Platinum Plugs, and put those in. And also the air filter. That's a good suggestion. Cheap and easy. Also, I might pour a bunch of Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner in it for a couple tanks... see if that helps anything... if none of that helps, it's time to check the FPR, and some other things..... Also, you're way overdue for a radiator service, if you haven't done that. It's 100,000 miles or 5 years, and you're way over the 5 years.... I'm also in agreement on tire pressure... I have mine at 36 all the way around, and that rides pretty good on 16 inch wheels.... Thanks so much for the info. I will definitely have the air filter & wires replaced & radiator serviced. And, it's time for new tires, anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 BarbCT QUOTE: It's intermittent, but some start-ups, I have to restart because engine seems almost out-of-balance (car actually vibrates slightly while engine 'chugs' at bit). I thought the oil just needed to warm up. The reason I suggested the FPR is because of the above statement. The rich mixture will cause starting difficulty.. Checking it is so easy, that its best to just eliminate the FPR as a source of some of your problems. Its a 5 minute job and you can eliminate it. Your ignition wires could also be responsible for your starting problems. With older cars like we have, many things can combine in total to create poor performance. Also if you replace the ignition wires pay close attention to their routing and do one at a time.. I knew my statement about Bosch would flush out a Bosch lover and thats ok. But remember one thing we are trying to eliminate a problem. The AC Delco plugs and wires have been tested and validated by GM to work adequately in your vehicle, when you go aftermarket YOU are doing the testing and validation. I had an 86 Corvette and it wouldn't idle with Bosch plugs, that is what I mean.. Suppose they used Autolite, Champion or Bosch in your car and the heat range is wrong?, that would contribute to the problems you are experiencing.. With OEM, there is NO guessing or experimenting. Furthermore, there is a lot of electronics under the hood, with aftermarket ignition wires do you know if they have adequate shielding to safeguard electronics like sensors, injectors and the HVAC motor from EMI crosstalk? I don't! Why chance that? Furthermore, the OEM wires have dilectic grease impregnated into the boots for easy removal, adding dilectic grease is not recommended as it creates mis-fires, that is stated right in the manual. Again, with OEM there is no guessing.. and you can eliminate that component when you are diagnosing a problem, right now?, we are trying to eliminate components to determine what your problem is.. If you find an aftermarket component it has a BIG question mark over its head until it is eliminated as a source of the problems you are having.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 I made a mistake above I said hold HIGH FAN and OFF to access codes. I should have said hold WARMER and OFF sorry! Here is a treat for you if you don't have it, download your owner's manual from this site. Its a PDF file and you can view and quickly search through it with Adobe Acrobat (a free download if you don't have it). Download the manual here: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om Here is the how to section of caddyinfo: http://www.caddyinfo.com/howto.html Here is information on how to get codes: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Here is what the codes mean: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Here is a treat for you if you don't have it, download your owner's manual from this site. Its a PDF file and you can view and quickly search through it with Adobe Acrobat (a free download if you don't have it). Download the manual here: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/resources-cad.html#om Thanks -- I did have it, but have subsequently misplaced it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Barb CT see my post right above yours I edited it after you posted the above message and posted more info and a correction, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 I needed to press OFF & Pass up buttons on my AC panel to get the codes ... by I have 'em ** Begin ** No PCM Codes No IPC Codes No ACM Codes No SDM Codes No TCS Codes No RSS Codes No PZM Codes IRC B1740 History IRC B1770 History IRC U1129 History IRC U1255 History IRC U1064 History IRC U1096 History No RFA Codes No CCP Codes No MSM Codes No MMM Codes PCM? ** End ** This looked like a prompt, so not knowing how to respond, I turned off power. FYI: I'm bring my Seville in next week for a new alternator. Looks like "no codes" is "good codes" I made a mistake above I said hold HIGH FAN and OFF to access codes. I should have said hold WARMER and OFF sorry! Didn't see this until I've already figured it out -- Thanks, anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Why do you need a new alternator is it whining? By the way make sure they use AC Delco we have had a bunch of members have problems with the so called 'lifetime' alternators from Pepboys and Autozone type places. Especially since replacing the alternator is so hard to get at... Yes no codes is great sorry about the mistake... You know how it is I can do it without thinking but, to describe it, is more difficult... The no codes again makes me think FPR, wires, plugs, coils, as they don't really set codes unless they misfire so badly they set 0300 codes... Let me know how you like running with harder tires. Good Luck, hope this helps, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbCT Posted September 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Why do you need a new alternator is it whining? Yes. It's whining "I need a new alternator" Actually, I suspected it was the alt. As soon as I heard the noise (whining), I put the dashboard info on Voltage. Sure enough, on highway it reads 14.0 - 14.2. Around town, voltage drops to around 13.6. This morning, when I checked for the codes, with engine off, but power on, it showed 12 volts before diagnostics started. Question: Why didn't the alternator problem/low voltage show up in diagnostics as a problem? By the way make sure they use AC Delco we have had a bunch of members have problems with the so called 'lifetime' alternators from Pepboys and Autozone type places. Especially since replacing the alternator is so hard to get at... Will do. I purchased the bumper-to-bumper insurance (5 year or 50K miles) when I purchased the car, mainly because of all the gadgets. Alternator is covered. Already had the water pump replaced under the contract. Thanks so much -- will report back on progress. Love this caddy (even with it's visits to the shop lately) ... and it's good-lookin' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 17, 2006 Report Share Posted September 17, 2006 Post a photo if you get a chance, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted September 18, 2006 Report Share Posted September 18, 2006 Wow -- a '97 with 18,000 miles! MINT! Would love to see some photos! Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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